With fingers firmly crossed that the wiring harness has solved the issues in my car, I just wanted to update where I am with the car and project.

Not as far as I wanted to be since the car hasn't run most of they year.

I have wheels done 18x10.5 running 315/30-18's. Currently Hoosier A6's, but will be testing some of the new Goodyear DOT's hopefully in the next few weeks (if the car remains running).

I just got my AST rear shocks back from being fixed, the struts are on, as are the set of springs I chose to start with. Of course I'm using a set of Strano Performance Parts Adjustable/Hollow 35/22mm swaybars. The car is also on camber plates at this time.

Next steps include: Upgrading the Limited Slip, installing the Watts linkage, Shifter, a change of brake rotors, and seats. You'll note that nothing power wise is done at this time. I have an intake, I have a tuner.... but until these powertrain issues are 100% for sure gone, I'm not touching that stuff. Besides, power isn't poor as is, and fast autocross cars are much more about handling and getting the power we have, down to the ground.

There is another build of a similar car going on for a different class which I've watched with interest. They are going a different way with some things, and have issues that I don't. I've never had an issue with the car stopping---ever. I won't be running as much camber. I won't be running as much rear bar, I won't be running as much spring and I will be running more wheel width and stickier tires. I've even offered help to those folks but they seem to want to go it alone, which is fine with me.

Fingers crossed that the car runs and runs well, because if there are issues my fall back car for the class is my 2001 Camaro (which runs fine) that I've won a few National Championships in already. I want this project to work, so if I do end up in the Camaro you Mustang guys have to understand it wasn't by choice!!!!!

This will be a thrash, I wanted to be almost done by this time of the year, not just starting... and I have a hell of a month coming up where I'll be travelling from NJ to NE to DE 3 weeks in a row and the car needs to be mostly done. But it doesn't have to be completely done until August (thank god).

I'm not big on blogging, and putting up every thought I have. I'm more into concentrating on my work and talking to folks. Every once in a while I'll try and update things!

 

We love to hear about it (well, atleast I do) so an occasional update is good to hear. Good luck with it.

 

Sam,

Are your standard swaybar links that come with your rear bar of similar length as the factory links? I'm looking at using billet aluminum mounts and links (front and rear) either from you or another vendor. My question is, are they a direct swap for use with your bars? Also, do you offer an adjustable height rear spring perch that fits in the stock location (per ESP rules)?

Thanks,

Dave

 

Dave..

From another vendor? Why? I have billet mounts if you want them. Yes, you can use them if you choose. Also they aren't technically links, I know that they are called that by many, but they are the bar mounts. There are no endlinks as the bar bolts directly to the axle. I have two options for billet u-bushing mounts... steeda and UMI both have them (and I carry both).

I'm not using weight jackers at the moment, but yes, I have those too.

 

I mentioned "other vendor" because I did not see them on your site. I see the billet U-bushing mounts front/rear, but I was referring to the rear hanging mounts that attach to the body and bar. Steeda calls them endlinks, but I can see your point, they are not at the end. See link:

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-h...d-mustang.html

Since the AST struts have an adjustable height sleeve to attach the front bar endlink, do you still recommend an adjustable endlink? or is the sleeve solid enough not to move or loosen? Also, is the AST sleeve range of adjustment sufficient enough to remove preload?

I'm getting my list together and will be calling you soon.

Thanks for your help,

Dave

 

Always ask. Please. I'm one guy, no mass of folks here to tend to details like websites, etc. For now it's just me and I'm usually up to my ears in stuff needing to get done.

I should assume you will be wanting to run AST's? You'd still want adjustable links as trying to adjust preload with the collars isn't very precise you'd need to make changes one compete turn at a time and with the thread pitch that's maybe too much.

 

Well, it's been a while since I updated this thread.

I've been running the car part time this year... and a Grand Sport Corvette the other half of the time. Can't complain much as I've won multiple National Events in both cars.

I'm continuing to make some tweaks, the big one today was shedding 18 pounds from the front and up high by way of a lightweight battery. Also got my oil separator installed. Steeda Intake is back on with a tune that should be less heat sensitive. And made a rear spring change which transformed the car in terms of ride quality and how it works over bumps.

Next week, one last alignment check, and I'm trying to get a lighter seat for the passenger side before Nationals too. The plan being the car should be about 50 pounds lighter than it was back in the spring, also 1" lower and about 35% stiffer too. Last time I was in Lincoln, I lost ESP. I don't want that happening again in the ProSolo Finale.

 

We're all rooting for you Sam! It's got to be a bear to keep cars competitive at that level year after year.

Just don't hurt the ESP pax too much!

 

It's not cheap. Keeping one up isn't as bad as building one from scratch. My car will not be nearly ESP full-tilt for Lincoln. In fact excepting the wheels/tires, it'd still be legal for STX!!!!!!!!

 

Hello, so your running 10.5's even in the front? If so what kind of wheels are they? I your front end modified?