moochman4life

Let's face it, we all know, working with these things are a pain in the ***. I always dread my endlinks coming loose during a track day because I know I'll have to find a way to re-tighten them...and it's never easy.

I really mean NEVER.

After lowering the car onto a jackstand to compress the shocks a little for some wiggle-room, is there an easy way to make sure that when you're turning on the wrench, that the bolt is actually tightening? Lol, easier than - say - a wrench, a pair of vice-grips and a little hope?

Everything else I've done myself on my car has been easy (I didn't install the blower or headers, but I've done everything else), but my endlinks are always my biggest pain.

I know I have to be self-imposing the drama, but I cannot be the only one.

JAJ

Are you talking about the stock swaybar links on the front suspension? If you are, then the ones on my car have a 17mm hex between the ball joint and the flange on the stud. Just reach between the ball and whatever the link is connecting to (the bar or the strut, depending on which end we're talking about) with a 17mm open end wrench and you can hold the stud still while you torque the nut.

Or am I missing something?

Red06

You can always switch to Sam's end links. Having spherical rod ends rather than ball joints, they're easy to tighten and are adjustable if you want.

jahudso2

JAJ, you have the redesigned end links. Ford redesigned them sometime in 2009 or 2010 to have that hex head on the back side of the bolt. With the old style, you have two choices:

1: Use an open ended 17mm? ratcheting box wrench on the nut, and a 10mm socket on the threaded part. Hold the socket still, and tighten the nut with the open ended wrench. I've shattered two 10mm sockets this way, so I don't recommend this.

2: Go to ford and buy the redesigned end links and nuts. The new end links have the 17mm or whatever hex head on the threaded bolt part, so that you can use two big *** wrenches to tighten it instead of a 10mm socket on that little threaded part. However, you also have to buy new nuts when doing this. They changed the thread pitch on the stupid end links, so you can't re-use the old nuts. The new nuts have red ny-lock on them, so they stay in place much better.

With the stock end links, I was having to re-tighten them every 3 weeks even after applying blue locktite to them. With the new end links, they have been good for about a year, but I am finally starting to hear the clunk again. Guess 1 year is better than every month, but it is still kinda ridiculous.

Doogie65

According to a thread on TMS, the p/n for the newer version is BR3Z-K483-B and fairly inexpensive at $13/each from Tousley.

moochman4life

Guys, thanks for the response. Really, I was just venting because they came loose again.

It's just another thing I have to do this weekend in prep for Summit the following weekend.

Thanks!

SilverHoss

End Link: BR3Z 5K483 B
Nut: W712503 S440

that is is updated part. makes life SO much easier. I've nvr had to re-tighten my end-links after getting the new part(s)