UrS4

I need help with deciding on a suspension system. I have done a lot of reading and visited many web sites and have left somewhat confused. The reason is because when trying to create a perfect list of components, in the back of my head I keep hearing, "do I really need the best and most adjustable suspension?"

My current set up is this:
2006 mustang GT manual tranny with 60K with stock suspension components with the following changes

255/50/17 summer tire
Ford racing Strut tower brace
Steeda G trac front brace
Steeda Panhard bar brace
Spohn Panhard bar on-car adjustable urethane bushings
Spohn LCA double adjustable (rod end/polyurethane bushings)

With all my reading on mustang forums etc. I have come up with a proposed suspension list:

Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates
Koni sports "yellows"
Strano front and rear adjustable sway bar kit
Eibach Pro-kit springs vs Ford racing vs Steeda Sport springs vs Vogtland springs

My car is my daily driver and the car has some very annoying suspension noises, probably the stock strut mounts, popping over bumps. I would like to get back into HPDE but will only do 1-2 per year. I do not like autocross. As "cool" as it is to have expensive adjustable LCA with combo joints, I have found that I don't really need "adjustable". If I got the above system, I would honestly set to once and never change it, even when at the road course. Also, money is a big deal. I just want a solid system that doesn't drastically worsen the daily drive but can hold its own on the road course (meaning the driver is the limiting factor not the suspension).

Therefore, is it smarter and more economical to just get a kit, like eibach Pro-system Plus kit, or ford racing, or steeda? I don't know which kit is better or if they are basically the same. I suppose a reasonable option would be Ford racing/Steeda sport/Eibach Pro-kit springs, GT500 vs Steeda HD strut mounts, ??? damper, strano sway bar kit.

Please give me your recommendations.

Sleeper_08

Did you read this sticky from above;

https://mustangforums.com/forum/s197...ks-matter.html

After a good set of tires Struts/shocks are probably the biggest single improvement you can make As far as I know none of the packages offer Koni's other than Sam's

http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=75&ModelID=5

Koni's, when you can get them, appear to be the best replacement shock. I guess that might be one reason they keep running out of them

It is beginning to sound like a stuck record around here but the best advice is, call Sam, tell him what you are looking for, listen to what he says and then if you decide to buy then buy from him. The advice you get is worth way more than any slight difference in price.

The Koni's are "expensive" but you get what you pay for. Every once in a while the Koni's go on sale and when they do then the prices are pretty good. I bought my Koni Yellows on sale from Sam and replaced my D Specs with them. I originally bought the D Specs because I didn't want to pay the extra for the Koni's.

Sam Strano

I'm here, and I'm happy to help. But I really have an issue with trying to do setup work or recommendations via the internet. Details matter, and they get lost in translation.

UrS4

I have read that article a while back Sleeper08 but I don't see how that helps me.

I know the car would greatly benefit from shocks and struts. And I have emailed Sam Strano a very similar post weeks ago but with no response so I posted it here to get some sound advice. I understand that things can be lost when not talking face to face, but solid recommendations from people with years of experience can be offered with the knowledge that they are not in absolutes.

My goals for the car are 1-3 track events at Thunderhill and Sears Point per year. The car is otherwise a daily driver. I will not constantly tinker and adjust settings if I had an adjustable set up. I will drive to the road course, participate, and drive home on the same settings. I want a car that will allow me as a driver to build confidence on the track, but not be uncomfortable for long commutes or trips up and down california.

Therefore, I was hoping that from the knowledgable members on here, that they could say for your goals of "X", these shocks, struts, sways, strut mounts will meet your expectations. Konis run low $700s and are 3 times more expensive than the shocks that come in the Roush, FFP, Eibach, Steeda kits. Are they worth the extra money given my goals? Also, if adjustable camber plates are unnecessary with a set it and forget it attitude, are they needed? However, if you say that the GT500 or steeda HD mounts are going to be popping in 1-2 yrs and can't correct the camber with the given drop from the springs, then I would like to know that too.

thanks

Sam Strano

Right away I see two issues.

First, I get literally hundreds of e-mails a day, so you have to forgive me if I can't get to everyone. A lot of times I just don't see every message. And not to put to fine a point on it, but I have a phone number.

Second, the most dangerous thing is "internet wisdom". Yes, there is a lot of good advice around... and a lot of advice that sounds good, but isn't. It always amazes me how folks are so much more willing to listen to what they read on the web from strangers without much of any background to point to, when they wouldn't listen to a stranger on the street (rightly so).

Koni has a set of non-adjustables for $405/set, that's not 3 times the cost of any of the others. If you only consider Koni's to be Koni Sports then I guess I could see how you get there (but still, they aren't 3 times the cost, it's usually about twice as much as say Tokico HP's and the like).

Further, it seems you want to try and save some bucks, and that's ok..... but if you wan the car to work, the suspension is not the place to do it. Your driveshaft costs a lot more than say the difference between good and crappy shocks, and the difference is much less useful on a day to day basis.

There are no absolutes, you are right. I can't really judge to what degree you want the car to work. It's silly to say that if you had adjustable parts you wouldn't use them. That's all part of setting a car up the way you want. If you don't want to adjust things, then I guess skip it, but it's like saying you don't want to tune the engine because it's too much trouble. And once you get it where you like it, you don't have to keep screwing with it.

So I'll try..... Based on what you have here, which isn't enough for my tastes, but what the hell:

Koni STR.T, good control, lifetime warranty.
Steeda Sport or Ultralite springs, both are street friendly and well balanced.
Strano Bars for balance and some control over the feel and balance.
Steeda HD mounts for camber adjustment and durability.
Adjustable Panhard bar, but more ideally a Watts link for greater stability and trustworthiness.

UrS4

You are right, 3 times the price was incorrect, should have been a little less than twice as expensive.

Already have the adj LCA, adj panhard bar, panhard brace, G trac, and stut tower brace.

Very true, my driveshaft was much cost for little benefit. But doesn't mean I need to keep repeating the mistake.

Also true about internet wisdom, there are members on this site, you being one of them, who are trustworthy, and I appreciate your input greatly.

A little suprised about the Watts link. I believe you have stated on many occasions that a very good rear suspension that will perform amazing can be had with the panhard bar 3-link setup.

As far as the adjustability of shocks and sways. I would initially adjust it, but honestly, I do not plan on adjusting it for say the softest setting for a long road trip and then stiffening it up for the track, or adjusting the sways when Im at the track.

All I would like to know is there a tangible (seat of the pants difference) between Bilstein HD dampers, eibach pro-kit dampers, tokiko HPs, Tokiko adj, koni SRT, Koni yellows? The simple answer is yes, but is the cost of the shock of say koni yellows vs SRT just in the adjustability, or is the shock, no matter the "softness" setting, inheritantly better than the other. The same question goes for the springs, albeit their cost range is much narrower.

Thanks again for your input Sam Strano

Sam Strano

Yes, there is a difference between shocks. Sleeper08 even mentioned it what he saw in an earlier post, and he already had D-specs and changed to Koni Sports.

A Panhard bar car can handle well, I'm not saying you need a Watts link, but it does help---I'd never own a solid axle car that I wanted to handle and be as predictable as possible without one again. Can a PHB car go as fast? Yep, but not with as much ease. In fact I didn't like the Watts link when I first put one on my Camaro---because it made the car much more planted and threw years of tweaking out the window and I had to reset. Once I did, it's better and I have one on my Mustang too.

I get what you are asking about the shocks and springs. But it's like asking what hamburger is better. Better how? Cost, taste, fat, filling? Shocks and springs have subtleties. I prefer the Steeda Sports for most street cars, but I will use others like Ultralites. I don't think Eibach's are that good. H&R are ok, but the Race springs are way too stiff for most folks liking, Super Sports are too low, Sports aren't quite a low as most folks want (less than 1" lower in the rear). Shocks are all built and valved differently. I think STR.T's work as well as Bilstein's do on rebound control, but with less cost. Either of those are much better than Tokico. And FRPP's FR3's have good rebound but are bone crushing to ride on.

We have now gotten way beyond what we should be discussing by the 'net. Details matter. I think I said that before. You clearly want them, this isn't a good way to get them.

LindsayEOD

Sam: I want to purchase a starter kit from you but I can NOT install it myself. I admit it is beyond me and the small amount of tools I have. Do you have a recommendation for someone in St. Louis or Indy that can install your parts? Thanks, and let me know when a good time to call is

Norm Peterson

As far as the adjustable Konis go, once you have them, you have the opportunity to firm them up beyond your DD preference for HPDE - and quite possibly soften them on longer drives where your passenger might not be entirely happy with your DD setting.

In contrast, adjustable PHBs and LCAs really are "set them and forget them" kinds of parts, unless you're going to be changing ride heights and pinion angle the way most folks change underwear (hopefully daily).

So far, I have the Koni yellows, Steeda HD strut mounts, Sam's bars, and the UMI endlinks. I do adjust the Konis down when my wife is going to be in the car for more than a few miles, and I did tinker with the settings just a little at the only autocross I've got out to this year. Takes about a couple of minutes to do all four, though I will say that I made a more durable adjusting tool than what is supplied. On stock springs, I haven't found it necessary to go beyond about one full turn up from full soft for any use, and I'm down around a quarter turn when she's aboard. I'm probably leaving a little on the table, but it's not noticeable in street driving. With ~50% stiffer springs - about where many of the aftermarket springs seem to fall - it probably would be noticeable enough to warrant dialing in a bit more damping.


Norm

danzcool

Just call Sam, and with a 10 minute phone call he'll understand you goals and have a list for you, besides you have to call anyway to give him your credit card details (last I heard he didn't want to deal with the hoops for accepting payment over the net, plus, in person dealing/phone is more secure).
Second, like Norm said, most of it is tweak to your liking and then forget, but the shocks can be adjusted with about 20 seconds per corner by anyone who place a **** on a spindle and turn.
Any tire shop can install the components, you don't need a specialty shop for that.