I would have called but I didn't get home until late and I was curious.

 

You can still call.... If you have any questions, you should. I try and support you guys after the sale as well as before it.

 

So I figured out what was going on. The strut and shock piston was turning instead of the actual adjustment ****. I had to hold the piston and the adjustment **** only turned 2 times in either direction. Problem solved and cool points gone.

 

I run mine fairly soft compared to what most people are saying. Possibly due to springs, tires, driving style, surface, etc. When at the track I start at one full turn up from full soft in the front and 1/2 turn in the rear. This usually gets me in the ball park of where I want to be but sometimes requires some playing around based on conditions. Otherwise, I just play with tire pressures. I run Eibach Pro-Kit springs and street tires, 275/40-18s all around. I am fixing to to sway bars so I'll probably play with adjustments more once that happens. I like it sprung fairly soft because most of tracks around here aren't the smoothest, neither are the streets. On the street, I run pretty much 1/2 turn in the front and full soft in the rear.

 

I do very similar, but with 1-1/4 up front. I'm running 225 lb. linear rate springs in the rear and 275 lb. linear rate springs up front. The Konis have some pretty solid damping, even on the lowest setting. I came from Tokico Dspecs and it was a big change in the mindset (I used to have to run the Tokicos much closer to their firmer setting, which also jacked up compression--didn't like that...).

A lot may depend on the track, which could explain the differences. I've found that at Buttonwillow, if I go with much more damping on the rear, the back end will start skipping a little on certain sections with high speed turns.

On the street, I run softest in the rear and 1-1/4 up front.

 

[quote=Import_Slaya;7815897]...275 lb. linear rate springs up front.../quote]

And what springs would those be, please? I'm looking for a set just like that.

 

I heard from some guys in Europe that the Koni yellows should be 'broke in' by running on full soft for a while.

My first mod to my new GT will be the Koni's. I have put them in our DD Volvo V70 plus other Volvos and BMWs. Definitely worth the extra $$ over Bilstein HD's.

 

Just a reminder that I have PLENTY of Koni's in stock.

The guys in Europe must be smoking something. No need to "break them in". Not sure what exactly they think they are getting done by doing that. I never run them full soft (well can only think of one time I did on the rear of one car) and I've never had issues and I've owned at least 5 sets myself.

 

And there is the common thread amongst all of us who have had both.... Koni's are more composed, they just do the job better.

 

Yep, those euro boys must have been kicking back in one of those Amsterdam "coffee shops" when they came up with that. I have never seen anything about breaking in in Koni instructions.

I will put in an order with you in about a month.