GotMunchies?

Howdy all,

I'm preparing for my first performance driving school at the new Ridge Raceway in Shelton, WA on July 23rd and am working on my checklist to prepare for the event. The car as it stands has about 20,000 miles with 4 years of semi-regular autocross (1-5) events / yr. on original brakes and tires (KDW's). The tires, though worn, have a decent enough amount of tread left. I need to check the wear of the brakes (though I'm thinking about upgrading them - see below). Following is the list of preparation:

Maintenance:
- Oil Change (completed this weekend - Mobil 1 oil + filter)
- Man. Transmission fluid upgrade (necessary to protect against wear?)
- Differential fluid (Necessary to protect against additional wear?)
- Verification of suspension fasteners tightness

Upgrades I'm considering before the school:
- SS Brake lines
- DOT4 Brake fluid
- Hawk HPS brake pads
- Rotors? (My understanding is that the brake rotors are sufficient for track duty and are cheap enough to replace that keeping the stock ones isn't an issue for the budget minded racer)
- Spark plugs (the car is still running original plugs which I'm tempted to change out ASAP considering the issues people have had removing them)
- Resetting front suspension alignment to -1.5* (-.25 +0) and 1/32" toe out (which is what it was set to while autocrossing. It was recently returned to stock after an accident).

I'm basically just looking for input so that I can properly prepare for the school and track days for the rest of the summer - any help would be greatly appreciated!

Campo 427R

I have'nt changed my manual trans fluid yet but only have 9,000 miles.
I changed my differential girdle to an LPW. It holds @ one quart more oil and is easy to change and refill. My mechanic installed it with a return line loop so fluid would'nt spray on my rear end when going around corners.
I have ss lines with ATE blue hi-temp fluid, but the front brake cooling duct mod gave me the best bang for my buck. My Hawk pads last for 5/6 track days now.
Your OEM rotors should be fine, just bed the brakes when installing new pads. Take-offs are cheap and abundant on-line.
The OEM (two piece) spark plugs should be changed at 15-20 thousand miles. Carbon deposit build up make them subject to breakage. Many DIY videos on spray lubricants and plug removal procedures are on the web.
I have camber plates and run -2.5 degrees for the track.
Run traction control off when on track, take a slow cool down run upon track exit to the paddock and don't use your E-brake when parking after each session. Bring a wheel chock or brick to stop tire roll when you park if not level.
Have fun!

Argonaut

Changing the engine oil and doing the complete inspection of fasteners are good ideas. Tranny and diff fluid if you have the time (I change mine once per year). Its debatable if SS lines are needed but they are relatively cheap so why not. DOT 4 fluid is mandatory. Personally I'd step up to at least the HP+ pad or a real track pad, slowing 3600 lbs from 120 creates a whole lot of heat and soft brakes are no fun. Especially since you don't have brake ducts on your list. A little extra camber would be good but I wouldn't worry about the toe, unless you are use to toe out and prefer it. Track vs. AX - toe out is not as useful, the transitions are not as quick. You might consider getting a CG Lock for your belt to keep you more firmly planted in the seat.

With your AX background you will quickly be ripping it up, so IMO brakes are your highest priority. Get a decent pad and consider getting ducts. The OEM rotors are fine.

GotMunchies?

Thanks for the quick replies!

I figured the HPS pads would be a good compromise between street and track, but I'm not against switching out pads for a race day if the HP+ will really work a lot better. Do you think its worth it? I think I'll keep the stock toe for now - the car would get a little squirrely under braking but will dial in that extra camber. The Ridge has some epic sweepers with changing radii so I think the camber would help.

1. Regarding brake ducts - I know of the Agent 47 brake ducts, are their any other options out there?

2. Campo, can you provide any more details on your differential set up (e.g. parts list and a picture)? I had completely forgot about the oil splashing issue in high-g turns.

3. Any off the cuff recommendations for a replacement spark plug? It sounds like its past time, I might as well get this done.

4. Any recommendations for higher performance tranny and diff fluid? Royal Purple or bust?

GotMunchies?

Does anyone have experience with these brake ducts?

http://www.v8power.com/item--Enginee...-KBP71600.html

I'm curious about what is more effective - dumping air onto the rear surface of the brake rotor channeling air into the spindle itself?

Sleeper_08

I use Quantum Motorsports front brake cooling.

Norm Peterson

If by "alignment was returned to stock" means -0.75° camber and some tiny amount of toe in, you could simply move the plates to dial in another 3/4 to maybe a degree more negative camber and let the toe fall where it may (I don't think toe varies very much as you move the tops of the struts). You can DIY this with a digital angle finder and a level place to set up on.

I absolutely agree with moving up to HP+, although you can get by with HPS as a cautious newbie on a track that is not very demanding on brakes (and has decent runoff room in and around the hard braking zones). With brakes in mind, being NA is probably a good thing. But when you're on the steep part of the learning curve and start finding later braking points and begin braking from higher speeds, you may find that you're outgrowing them pretty quickly.

As an alternative to chocking the wheels in paddock, cruise around slowly to equalize temperatures still further (I'm not sure that in every event you'll always get a full cool-down lap every session) and continue to cool the brakes. Shut the car off leaving the transmission in 1st or reverse.

Compared to autocross, track speeds are obviously higher, maybe even double, but the pace (both mentally and physically) is not nearly as frantic. And you're not looking at only three laps to get it all right to the best of your ability.


Norm

Campo 427R

http://www.lpwracing.com/Diff_Cover_...omparison.html
Here is the link to my girdle cover. My mechanic fabricated the return line. I run dino oil in my differential and don't think full synthetic is necessary, however others may think and say differently.
I will be replacing my plugs with the one piece Brisk pieces. My cylinder heads ares the ones with two piece plugs and subject to breakage due to carbon deposits.
Agree with Norm's post above. After several track days and more experience you will learn and use threshold braking and trail braking techniques which may require a front brake kit upgrade to either 4 or 6 piston calipers and larger rotors. Please try the cooling ducts first as these will put off the brake upgrade for awile and allow you to save. I used Quantum Motorsports like Sleeper08 and they had to be fabricated for my Roush front facia. The Kenny Brown kit looks really nice but notice the hose is another charge. My cooling duct kit cost @ $120 parts and hose included but that was several years ago.
Another tip would be to google youtube and look for S197 mustang videos on the track you will be driving. Look at the line that similar horsepower cars use and get familiare with the track, the turns, flag stations etc.

JAJ

I got home last night from my sixth track day at the Ridge. I'll be there a couple more times before July 23rd.

Unlike some tracks, the Ridge is not particularly hard on the car. The track is wide and fast, and your brakes get a reasonable amount of time to cool from corner to corner. My advice would be not to worry too much about lubricants and such, and focus on wheel alignment and brakes.

Get as much negative camber dialed in as possible, and go with 0 toe. You don't need negative toe at this track. It has fast wide corners and you don't want a twitchy setup. As for your tires, this track is brand new and develops massive grip. Just turn up with what you've got and then decide after that.

For brakes, I'd put in a good set of new pads. The Hawks will be fine, lots of people there run them successfully. The other pad to consider is the Stoptech Streetsport pad. I use them for the street and I like them a lot. I run Performance Friction racing pads at the track. Your brake fluid should be a good quality DOT 4 or very fresh Motorcraft DOT3. The Motorcraft DOT3 has virtually DOT4 performance when it's new. I've tracked with it and it's fine, although I'm fundamentally lazy so I switched to Castrol SRF so I only have to change it once a year.

So that's my advice for the Ridge. Basically, don't overthink it.

UPRSharad

We installed Hawk Quiet Slot rotors and HP+ pads on my car at Sebring last year and I'm a cheap butt so I just left them on the car after the event. They worked really well on the street, but they were noisy and they dusted so much that I had to wash the wheels at least once a week.

I finally got off my cheap and lazy butt and installed a pair of Centric drilled slotted rotors and HPS pads last week. The noisiness is gone, and the wheels have no noticeable brake dust after a full week, including five autocross runs yesterday. (they would've been BLACK with the HP+s installed) On the street, the difference between braking power with the HPS and HP+ is barely noticeable.

My suggestion is that if you're going to install pads for the track and take them off when you return home, use the HP+. If you're going to install the pads now and leave them on until they wear out, use the HPS.

Incidentally, I use Motul RBF600 fluid.

Also, you guys have me Jonesin' for that Quantum Motorsports cooling kit.