Lower Control Arm Swap - lessons learned
Hi all - I just completed the task of swapping out the factory LCAs and tie rod ends with Moog parts. I was stuck on the removal of the LCA pivot bolt and thought that I had to loosen the steering rack to get the needed clearance. I just wanted to comment that you do not need to move the rack. If you remove the tie rod end from the knuckle and turn the wheel hard the other direction, you will have the clearance.
I learned this out of desperation because I could not loosen the steering rack bolts. Just wanted to share what I learned with others...
PS, I never have done any suspension work, so this was pretty much all new to me. I feel confident that I can do similar work on my Explorer later this fall.
Also love that my new Moog tie rod ends have grease fittings!!!! It is a shame that my factory tie rod ends and ball joints were shot at 40,000 miles!
I learned this out of desperation because I could not loosen the steering rack bolts. Just wanted to share what I learned with others...
PS, I never have done any suspension work, so this was pretty much all new to me. I feel confident that I can do similar work on my Explorer later this fall.
Also love that my new Moog tie rod ends have grease fittings!!!! It is a shame that my factory tie rod ends and ball joints were shot at 40,000 miles!
Good to know! I recently went through the same pain installing polyurethane front control arm bushings. I managed to get the steering rack bolts out, but it took a 1/2" breaker bar, a lot of leverage, and some muscle. Before the breaker bar I managed to destroy one of my 3/8" ratchets. Even with the rack slid all the way forward the bolts just barely came out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dragonus18
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
8
Sep 9, 2015 01:21 AM
MustangForums Editor
Mustang News, Concepts, Rumors & Discussion
0
Sep 8, 2015 05:21 PM



