Caster adjustment ?
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 553
From: Texas
Caster adjustment ?
Without giving out all the details of my week. I got some new tires today (all 4 corners) and had them align it as much as possible.
They told me that my left front caster is off. I took pics of the results as I don't have time to scan the page right now, but....
They said I have a lower ball joint that "has play" and a caster kit is needed to adjust caster. What do you think?
I did purchase some Koni Yellows from Sam this week to be installed. I don't have new springs yet. I'm thinking this could all be done at once.
Is the caster kit something I should be able to handle on my own?
Thanks for any input.
They told me that my left front caster is off. I took pics of the results as I don't have time to scan the page right now, but....
They said I have a lower ball joint that "has play" and a caster kit is needed to adjust caster. What do you think?
I did purchase some Koni Yellows from Sam this week to be installed. I don't have new springs yet. I'm thinking this could all be done at once.
Is the caster kit something I should be able to handle on my own?
Thanks for any input.
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12
From: CA
Not sure that I'd sweat caster being off a tenth of a degree on the left.
That being said, if the left ball joint "has some play", shouldn't it be replaced first? I'd ask that question.
Wouldn't using a caster kit just be a band-aid to mask a bad ball joint? Press them for answers before spending money on a caster kit.
That being said, if the left ball joint "has some play", shouldn't it be replaced first? I'd ask that question.
Wouldn't using a caster kit just be a band-aid to mask a bad ball joint? Press them for answers before spending money on a caster kit.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,936
There is some caster lead in the RF from what I see. And yes, if the balljoints are bad that should be addressed before aligning the car again.
It's off .1 from factory range, and .7 from the RF. Well .5 degree caster lead (RF more) is pretty standard to account for a crowned road and to try and keep the pull from that down. I don't see a lot to worry about to be honest unless you'd also like to gain some camber adjustment in general... in which case a set of CC plates will give you that and allow you to square the caster up if if bothers you that much.
It's off .1 from factory range, and .7 from the RF. Well .5 degree caster lead (RF more) is pretty standard to account for a crowned road and to try and keep the pull from that down. I don't see a lot to worry about to be honest unless you'd also like to gain some camber adjustment in general... in which case a set of CC plates will give you that and allow you to square the caster up if if bothers you that much.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 553
From: Texas
Just to update the info I have, and Sam and I had a conversation about this earlier...
Yes if the ball joint is really a problem right now, I will get it replaced but so far only one shop (NTB) has said it has play.
Initial reason why I'm dealing with this is because I slid in the rain right into a curb with my driver side front wheel
Note: the car drives straight. It doesn't lean to the left or right.
NTB is the place where they said I needed caster/camber plates to resolve the caster and that the ball joint was loose.
The next day (yesterday), took it to a guy who's been around a long time early Friday. He didn't see anything bent and couldn't from looking under the car, didn't see any ball joint issues. He said there was nothing to worry about at this time.
The shop owner pointed out to me that the wheel I hit the curb with straight on was further back than the right wheel, noticeably closer to the rear side of the fender. To fix that, I had 2 options (didn't need both).
1. Camber/Caster plates
2. K-member/subframe adjustment. (Cost of this would include alignment)
When i was inquiring about parts to fix this online, another person in the business I emailed about this suggested that we probably missed something, like a bent control arm, tie rod, or strut.
Sam seems to think maybe the steering knuckle got bent.
Now, I'm also going to have some Koni yellows and springs on my door step in the near future.
May have it all fixed and upgraded at once, main reason being that If they do the repair, a alignment is going to be needed, and if I get the shocks/struts/springs installed after that, I'm going to need another alighment.
Note to self: Gonna have a local friend of a friend who owns a shop that deals with a lot of Mustangs take a look at it. I'll mention ball joint, steering knuckle, and to make sure they look for anything that is bent that we didn't see.
This has been stressing me out a lot the last couple days. But I'm glad that there isn't any frame damage. Even though he said it is perfectly safe to drive, I'm going to let it sit in the garage until I can get it to the shop next week.
Yes if the ball joint is really a problem right now, I will get it replaced but so far only one shop (NTB) has said it has play.
Initial reason why I'm dealing with this is because I slid in the rain right into a curb with my driver side front wheel
Note: the car drives straight. It doesn't lean to the left or right.
NTB is the place where they said I needed caster/camber plates to resolve the caster and that the ball joint was loose.
The next day (yesterday), took it to a guy who's been around a long time early Friday. He didn't see anything bent and couldn't from looking under the car, didn't see any ball joint issues. He said there was nothing to worry about at this time.
The shop owner pointed out to me that the wheel I hit the curb with straight on was further back than the right wheel, noticeably closer to the rear side of the fender. To fix that, I had 2 options (didn't need both).
1. Camber/Caster plates
2. K-member/subframe adjustment. (Cost of this would include alignment)
When i was inquiring about parts to fix this online, another person in the business I emailed about this suggested that we probably missed something, like a bent control arm, tie rod, or strut.
Sam seems to think maybe the steering knuckle got bent.
Now, I'm also going to have some Koni yellows and springs on my door step in the near future.
May have it all fixed and upgraded at once, main reason being that If they do the repair, a alignment is going to be needed, and if I get the shocks/struts/springs installed after that, I'm going to need another alighment.
Note to self: Gonna have a local friend of a friend who owns a shop that deals with a lot of Mustangs take a look at it. I'll mention ball joint, steering knuckle, and to make sure they look for anything that is bent that we didn't see.
This has been stressing me out a lot the last couple days. But I'm glad that there isn't any frame damage. Even though he said it is perfectly safe to drive, I'm going to let it sit in the garage until I can get it to the shop next week.
Cut & Paste Expert
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 13,322
From: NW Arkansas
Caster is non-adjustable according to the Ford Workshop Manual.
If it is off, you have sub frame damage.
K-Member SubFrame adjustment is your best bet.
Dont fix bent items with caster/camber plates...
Fix the problem, dont bandaid it.
If it is off, you have sub frame damage.
K-Member SubFrame adjustment is your best bet.
Dont fix bent items with caster/camber plates...
Fix the problem, dont bandaid it.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 553
From: Texas
That's the plan. I'm putting my new shocks/struts/springs in next weekend. Then will take it to get the k-member adjusted and hope that everything else is ok. But whatever it is I will get fixed the right way.
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