View Poll Results: Sleeper mustangs or all out?
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14
87.50%
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Voters: 16. You may not vote on this poll
Suspension
01-20-2013, 03:43 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20
Suspension
Good day fellow mustang owners. This is my first post/question so please bear with me. I have a 2010 GT premium and I just purchased a stage 2 suspension kit from Mr. Sam Strano. If I am correct it consist of Steeda ultralite springs and the Koni STR.Ts. Also picked up a set of Heavy Duty mounts. Looking for a well pronounced suspension shop in virginia beach area, as i just relocated here, to install my parts. Thought about doing it myself but really don't have the time or help although i do have access to a fully equipped garage. Any and all help is much appreciated, Thank you. 
01-20-2013, 04:10 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Try getting in touch with somebody at either
Tidewater Sports Car Club
or Southeastern Virginia Mustang Club (I think they used to be known as Beach Ford Mustang Club)
As far as I know, those two clubs are over on the Norfolk-VA Beach-Portsmouth side of the river, don't know if any of the clubs on the Newport News-Hampton side are still around.
Oh yeah, sleeper. Always have more bite than bark.
Norm
Tidewater Sports Car Club
or Southeastern Virginia Mustang Club (I think they used to be known as Beach Ford Mustang Club)
As far as I know, those two clubs are over on the Norfolk-VA Beach-Portsmouth side of the river, don't know if any of the clubs on the Newport News-Hampton side are still around.
Oh yeah, sleeper. Always have more bite than bark.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 01-20-2013 at 04:19 PM.
01-20-2013, 04:46 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20
Thanks Norm, will do. I may just try to enlist some help from some friends and save the labor install for more goodies. The suspension work is really all not that bad. I did my own suspension work on my prior mustang, 89 GT, back in the day. Just hard to find the time with work and all. Thanks again!
03-09-2013, 07:15 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20
All right, finally got my suspension parts installed. Manned up and did it my self 
It was not as hard as I thought it was going to be, actually it was pretty straight forward. Plus the lowest price quote I received was like 600 as high as 950!!! WTF. But I had to do it twice 
due to the instructions.
My suspension kit consisted of the Koni STR Ts, Steeda Ultra lite springs, and Steeda Heavy duty mounts. First off the ride is out of this world. Exactly what I was looking for after all said and done.
First problem was that I installed the rear springs upside down, the words on the springs were right side up soooo I figured that was good, WRONG, when installed correctly the words are "indeed" upside down. The tight wound coils go to the body and loose wound coils go to axle. I fixed that and the car rode even better, felt like it did anyway. Now for the front, the steeda ultra lites came with a protected spring isolater all ready on them, soooo, again, i figured i just could use them, again, "WRONG". I ended up with a "scrunching" noise, if you will. Only when I went over speed bumps though. I did not have any popping, clunking, or other weird noise. Just the "scrunching" type noise. At first i thought it was just the new dampers causing this noise. So I decided to take the plastic clear spring protecters off and put the ones on from the factory springs. Reconnected everything to torque specs along with a little blue loctite for safe measure and BOOM, the scrunchy noise is gone
As far as the whole setup, I cannot thank Mr. Sam Strano enough. I live in the Hamptons Road area of Virginia and these roads SUCK!!! But I am very happy with the setup. The 4x4 look is gone, wheel hop is gone, nose diving is gone, and nose up on accel is gone. Drives like a different car. I did not need a adjustable PHB, as my rear did not get off centered. I would post pics, but I am not allowed too just yet, not enough post, sorry. I know this mod has been done a million times, but if any one is about to do this and you are in my area just shoot me a PM and I will help in every way I can, cheers.
It was not as hard as I thought it was going to be, actually it was pretty straight forward. Plus the lowest price quote I received was like 600 as high as 950!!! WTF. But I had to do it twice due to the instructions.My suspension kit consisted of the Koni STR Ts, Steeda Ultra lite springs, and Steeda Heavy duty mounts. First off the ride is out of this world. Exactly what I was looking for after all said and done.
First problem was that I installed the rear springs upside down, the words on the springs were right side up soooo I figured that was good, WRONG, when installed correctly the words are "indeed" upside down. The tight wound coils go to the body and loose wound coils go to axle. I fixed that and the car rode even better, felt like it did anyway. Now for the front, the steeda ultra lites came with a protected spring isolater all ready on them, soooo, again, i figured i just could use them, again, "WRONG". I ended up with a "scrunching" noise, if you will. Only when I went over speed bumps though. I did not have any popping, clunking, or other weird noise. Just the "scrunching" type noise. At first i thought it was just the new dampers causing this noise. So I decided to take the plastic clear spring protecters off and put the ones on from the factory springs. Reconnected everything to torque specs along with a little blue loctite for safe measure and BOOM, the scrunchy noise is gone
As far as the whole setup, I cannot thank Mr. Sam Strano enough. I live in the Hamptons Road area of Virginia and these roads SUCK!!! But I am very happy with the setup. The 4x4 look is gone, wheel hop is gone, nose diving is gone, and nose up on accel is gone. Drives like a different car. I did not need a adjustable PHB, as my rear did not get off centered. I would post pics, but I am not allowed too just yet, not enough post, sorry. I know this mod has been done a million times, but if any one is about to do this and you are in my area just shoot me a PM and I will help in every way I can, cheers.
Last edited by Trentz10; 03-09-2013 at 07:23 PM.
03-10-2013, 08:12 AM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
Probably most of us have had to redo one thing or another.
Sounds like all you have left to do is alignment, which you can also DIY with only a level setup area, any of several ways to measure camber, and a parallel strings setup for toe. Toe varies slightly with camber changes, so don't forget to check and adjust that as well (do toe last).
Norm
Sounds like all you have left to do is alignment, which you can also DIY with only a level setup area, any of several ways to measure camber, and a parallel strings setup for toe. Toe varies slightly with camber changes, so don't forget to check and adjust that as well (do toe last).
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 03-10-2013 at 08:14 AM.
03-10-2013, 09:17 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20
I may attempt the alignment, that is a whole other story though, lol. Still reading and researching on how to do attempt. I have never seen it done but would like to learn the process, self education is a wonderful thing.
03-10-2013, 10:06 AM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 7,635
It's not as difficult as the $$$$$ professional alignment racks and computerized displays may make it seem. All they really do is make the measurements (and guarantee a level reference setup area).
As long as you aren't trying to track down bent components, the only real difference from what you've already done to bolt the strut mounts to the towers is making the camber and toe measurements. You need a level setup area, which can be obtained by shimming under the tires as necessary. Direct camber measurements can then be made (at least to within 0.1°, which is entirely adequate for every use short of high-level competition) with a digital angle finder referenced off the wheels. Don't measure off the tire sidewalls (or off a bent/dinged/damaged wheel for that matter), since doing so will introduce errors. I have a longer write-up with pictures (in MS Word). PM me with an email address if you're interested.
Norm
As long as you aren't trying to track down bent components, the only real difference from what you've already done to bolt the strut mounts to the towers is making the camber and toe measurements. You need a level setup area, which can be obtained by shimming under the tires as necessary. Direct camber measurements can then be made (at least to within 0.1°, which is entirely adequate for every use short of high-level competition) with a digital angle finder referenced off the wheels. Don't measure off the tire sidewalls (or off a bent/dinged/damaged wheel for that matter), since doing so will introduce errors. I have a longer write-up with pictures (in MS Word). PM me with an email address if you're interested.
Norm
