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Adjustable Upper Control Arm

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Old Jul 2, 2013 | 11:38 AM
  #1  
Mr.Ski's Avatar
Mr.Ski
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Default Adjustable Upper Control Arm

Getting ready to lower my 09 GT Coupe. I already have a 1 piece driveshaft. I am going to use either the Eibach Pro's or the Ford Racing P springs. Do I actually NEED an adjustable upper control arm, or will the pinion angle still be ok with this amount of drop?
Old Jul 2, 2013 | 06:30 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by Mr.Ski
Getting ready to lower my 09 GT Coupe. I already have a 1 piece driveshaft. I am going to use either the Eibach Pro's or the Ford Racing P springs. Do I actually NEED an adjustable upper control arm, or will the pinion angle still be ok with this amount of drop?
I wouldn't say you NEED an adjustable UCA with a 1.5" drop, but if you're still running the stock UCA, you should definitely upgrade it. So now would be the time.

Here's what I'd recommend:

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...-mount-05.html
Old Jul 2, 2013 | 06:37 PM
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You may need camber bolts and an adjustable panhard bar after lowering. Cause your front camber might be slightly out of spec and the rear end of the car might not be centered over the rear end.

Control arms will just help with the wheel hoping that the S197's have.
Old Jul 2, 2013 | 08:10 PM
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I guess I should have provided more info. I am ordering caster camber plates, I already have the Metco lower control arms and upper control arm bracket installed and already have the Eibach front and rear sway bars installed. I already have the Koni STR.T struts and shocks installed. I am just trying to find out at what point do you actually need to adjust the pinion angle when lowering the car with a one piece driveshaft.
Old Jul 3, 2013 | 10:55 AM
  #5  
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What I can tell you is that (1) lowering the car will nose the pinion in the downward direction, and (2) with polyurethane or spherical control arm bushings of any sort you don't need as much pinion angle even at stock height. Basically, both of these effects call for PA adjustment.

What I can't tell you is how swapping in a one-piece D/S affects PA requirements. If it needs less PA than the OE two-piece, that'll be a third effect asking for adjustment. But if it typically needs more PA, you might not need to do anything.

Worst case, install everything except the adjustable UCA and see if you have any driveline vibration, and only "fix" it if you get any. This would be good enough approach for satisfying most normal street driving at reasonably normal speeds, but might not be optimum for drag racing purposes.


Norm
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