artdohc

Hello all,

I have a 2011 Mustang GT with the track package. I upgraded the suspension with Steeda shocks/struts, Eibach sport springs, and a J&M adjustable PHB.

It's time to take the next step with my suspension and I'd also like to address the wheel hop I'm experiencing at the rear during hard acceleration.

I was thinking about replacing the rear upper and lower control arms with these:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...-uca-1113.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-lca-poly-0512.html

I guess my question is, it this a good next step? Do I need relocation brackets if I'm using an adjustable UCA? Do I need adjustable LCAs?

Also, I was considering a Whiteline's Watts setup...if I went with this would I still benefit from replacing the rear UCA and LCA, or do I just need the Watts setup?

My budget is less than $1000 for this next step, and I really like that the control arms are only $320 as then I can do other things to my car.

Thanks!

ModBargains

If your budget is $1000 then I'd forget the Watts link unfortunately. I've had my eye on that piece as well and just opted for the Hotchkis line up with upper UCA's LCA's and a PHB. Works very well on the street, absolutely no wheel hop since I installed it, even on the track, and it's reasonably priced too. We only work with the best, so if you want to check it out, you can find it here:

Hotchkis Sport Suspension Adjustable Upper Trailing Arms 2011-13 Mustang

Hotchkis Sport Suspension Lower Trailing Arms Mustang

Hotchkis Adjustable Panhard Rod Mustang

I have a packaged deal on all these guys together if you're interested in a total discount on the whole shebang!

artdohc

I thought the spherical bushings have more road noise and are harsher than the typical polyurethane bushings found on most control arms...am I not correct? I think I'd prefer poly bushings.

I already have an adjustable panhard bar, but if you want to send me a quote for a set of UCAs and LCAs that would be great.

UPRSharad

I'd recommend this UCA & Mount:

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...-mount-11.html

and these LCAs:

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-c...ushing-05.html


Those arms will handle a lot of power (over 700rwhp), but still have great street manners. That particular UCA is adjustable so you can correct your pinion angle, and the UCA mount is much stronger than the factory piece!

These are Made in America, and they carry a Lifetime Guarantee. Also, we have a 15% off sale today.

mighted1987

upr, where is my quote?

artdohc

This might be a stupid question, but is that price for the UCA and mount for both driver and passenger sides, or just a single side?

UPRSharad

Sorry for the delay!! Email is sent!


That price is just the one UCA & Mount. There is only one upper control arm on 2005-14 Mustangs. Sorry this isn't the best picture. Looks like this:

Allupinya

I like Hotchkis however, I would never recommend their UCA due to the massive amounts of increased noise. I've installed a couple of these and had to removed them a week later. For LCA's, its basic engineering and old technology. No reason to spend that much on LCA's unless you just want some bling. BMR LCA's will do just fine, I would look at the BMR UCA and mount as well. Oh and stay away from double adjustable PHB's, they truly are a pain to tighten down.
I run Whiteline adj LCA's, BMR UCA and mount, Whiteline Watts link and AST coilovers. Pretty dang good setup.

Sam Strano

As the internet starts to run wild, I'm going to ask you to slow down and consider the answers you get carefully.

First, you can easily do a Watts link and control arms for $1000. A Fays2 link, which I very much prefer over the Whiteline anyway (which has issues I don't like including the single shear mounting of the arms). A Fays2 is $650 (but due to go up soon, closer to $700). I sell many different control arms... In fact I could put you on a Fays2, upper and lower control arms w/poly ends for just over $900.

Second. You do not NEED LCA brackets. You might want them, they are in no way necessary. In fact the upper arm, or the lower arms alone might well kill your wheelhop, many times just the lowering does, though it seems not the case here (but I bet it got less bad than it was stock).

Hotchkis... I carry that too. Nice stuff, big time pricey and so I rarely sell it, only when folks want it by name and won't accept any other advice. I usually will do UMI and Steeda first.

Jande063

OP, two days ago I installed a Fays2 Watts link(the one Sam just recommended) on my car, and I can honestly say that thus far, it is the some of the best money(right up there with wheels and tires for me) I have spent on this car(fixed my lateral axle hop, which for me was a bigger issue than the stock damping or spring rates). I live in an area with some of the worst roads in the country, and this Watts link made driving around a much better experience, there is none of that side to side dance that the stock rear end would always do when I hit a bump mid corner, it just lifts and drops like most other performance cars would.