Norm,
Great replies.
My 2014 GT Track Pack car had horrific wheel hop in stock form. I changed to Koni Yellow, Steeda Boss 302 Springs and a Fays2 watts link and voila ...ZERO hop.
I had guessed that the severe rear end squat and front lift on hard acceleration combined with poor dampers was causing the car to bounce on the suspension.
Your explanation of behavior is excellent.
FYI. My car is on stock Track Pack LCA's and stock UCA so the fix was springs and dampers only for my car.
Tod

 

Thanks Tod. *Edit* Ok, I see the springs you're referring to now.

 

I did not go with coil overs. Mine are front struts and rear shocks as stock but Koni Yellow adjustables and Steeda Boss 302 springs. The stock dampers are not up to the task in my opinion, even for street. The Steeda Boss 302 springs would not be my recommendation for a street performance car as they are stiffer than needed.
For a street performance car true high quality coil overs would be overkill when Koni makes such a superb product with a lifetime guarantee.

Take a look at the Koni sale prices going on right now.

 

Yeah< I edited my post because I had not realized you should just get the springs alone. I saw the SR performance ones, but at 1.5 inch drop, that might be much for my driving around town. Instead, the Steeda has some that drops the right by 1" in the front, and 1.25" in the rear, which might be what I am looking for. I didn't realize lowering springs were so cheap!! I would have done this years ago! lol

These might be what I need to prevent so much *** drop on take off, but still allow some for a better mix.

 

I have J&M extreme lower control arms that have one spherical joint and one poly joint, along with steeda sport springs and koni srt.t shocks and CHE relocation brackets. All of these together and I really like how the car drives. Axle hop is gone and everything feels a bit tighter. The springs and struts also make a big difference in brake dive.

Relocation brackets change the suspension geometry to help plant the rear axle more on hard acceleration, but may have some adverse effect on turning. If you look into these I recommend going with the strongest brand you can find.

Cheaper Relocation brackets can bend...(that is supposed to be aligned with the bracket on the axle)

 

I just ordered the same LCA's. Ive heard of some adjustable LCA's actually snapping :

http://forums.corral.net/forums/s-19...ca-owners.html

So i went with non adjustable and what i mentally guessed/assumed was the best design, which was the J&M extreme. I dont have relocation brackets which i hope isnt a problem.

 

I went with the billet aluminum steeda LCA's with the roto joint on one end and poly on the other. They now even offer a delrin bushing instead of the poly for an even harder bushing.

 

If you have your car lowered, i'd def recommend getting some relocation brackets. if not..then no.

 

Yeah, I'd say the control arms are more for stability (in a straight line or in the corners), rather than traction. Although if the car wheel hops they'll improve traction by eliminating that. To me, sticky tires and upgraded control arms are the perfect match for improving grip in a straight line or in the corners.

 

I completely agree with you that control arms are more for stability rather than for traction.You need to replace the control arm & suspension bushings to maintain the durability of your vehicle.Recently I replaced my Audi control arms and I feel the change in the drive after that.