2012White5.0

I bought my 2012 Mustang new, and now I want to upgrade the suspension after it being stock for 3 years.

I've already bought the lowering springs I want, which are the Steeda Sport Springs. They will give the car a 1" drop in the front and 1.25" in the rear, which I think is perfect.

My wife told me to give her my list of parts so she can buy some for Christmas I want to make sure i know exactly what to get.

Here is what I have planned so for.

-Steeda Front and Rear Adjustable Sway Bars
-Steeda Pro Action Shocks and Struts
-Steeda Heavy Duty Upper Strut Mounts
-BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar
-Roush Billet Rear Lower Control Arms


The few things I am not sure if I need:

-Control Arm Relocation Brackets ?
-Upper Control Arm, and should it be adjustable?
-Sway Bar End Links, should they be adjustable?
-Should I go with adjustable strut/shocks? If so, which ones?

I want to make sure that the suspension geometry is correct and don't mind spending the extra money to make sure it is done right.

I’m a newbie to suspension, and have never touched it on my other two (V6) Mustangs. It's mostly a weekend car since my wife and I work at the same office. and we normally just drive her Escape. I've thought about taking it out for track days, but my suspension is the limiting factor. We also like to take it to the mountains, and would be nice to firm up the slop in the stock suspension.

UPRSharad

Skip the LCA relos. Definitely get an upper control arm, AND mount. Of course, I'd recommend UPR Products for the strength and durability.

Adjustable shocks and struts are nice. I like Strange & Konis.

BrazenStang

Yes, to the adjustable UCA. LCA and relocation brackets are personal preference, but based on your list and what you are doing they will only have positive effects on the car.

UrS4

What specifically don't u like about how the car performs? Is the intended use daily driver, straight line, corner carving? How important is NVH? Did you intentionally leave wheels and tires off the list? How long do u keep ur mustangs? What is ur budget? Do u plan on piece meaning the list over time or want it all done at once? Etc etc.

2012White5.0

I don't like the body roll, the 4x4 stock stance, and would like it to launch a little better.

The car does get driven to work 1-2 days a week, my wife and I work together so it just depends on the schedule, but we normally drive her car. Otherwise it's mostly driven on the weekends. We live in North Carolina with a good amount of back roads, and I would like better performance during normal driving. We also take it to the mountains 1-2 times a year, normally during the fall when the trees are changing. I really want to tighten up the slop in the stock suspension, to get better all-around performance. I do not want a drastic increase in NVH, since it will drive me crazy.

I've already bought new rims that are 19x9 F, and 19x9.5 R. They are pair of stock Boss 302 rims that I picked up for $600. I will be putting a good set of summer tires on them after the winter, and my stocks tires should be just about done.

I'm buying a few parts here and there but getting sway bars as my Christmas gift. I will then buy the LCA's, and make the final larger purchases (shocks/struts, CC plates, etc.) in the spring when I get the tax return and my bonus. Right now I am starting with the parts that can be installed independently. It should also help me notice the improvements with each part

I plan on keeping this car for a long time, and have no intention of trading or selling. Next to the 1969 Mustang, the 10-12 is my favorite body style. I had my first 2 Mustangs for 7 years. The only reason I had to buy a second one was because a trucker came over on me, and put my first into the guard rail.

kingstrider

That is a nice list of mods for sure. If you are changing the LCAs then you might as well do the UCA too.

moochman4life

IMO, if you are just concerned about body roll, I would focus a little more on a good set of springs and dampers....then see how you like it. I run some damn good lap times on tracks with stock sways and UCA. If you're not a track day guy, I would just stick with dampers and springs...and save the money for something else later.

A lot of guys buy parts because they got the mod bug, not really knowing if they need them or not for their specific driving style.

Sam Strano

This is always tough because it can come across like I'm just being a naysayer. Some of the stuff on your list is good. Some, you could better. And others, are things I'd not want to sell you just as a matter of course.

Dampers are critical, and while I'm a Steeda WD (and some of the stuff I will recommend to you), I'd put you on different dampers. Probably Koni's, but not sure STR.T's or Sports. STR.T's are more inline with the budget, but if you don't spend money on things you may not really need you can step up the dampers.

The Steeda adjustable rear bar is HUGE, MASSIVE. WAY TOO BIG. The front bar is fine, but I think you have better bar options. Nobody else does anything bigger than 27mm rear (which is still too big) let alone the 32mm they are running. Blows my mind as the non-adjustable bar is much more reasonably sized. My bars are 35mm front, 25mm rear. Both are hollow, both adjustable. And cost $369 for the pair. And are well proven with multiple SCCA National Championships.

LCA/UCA's. Not a popular opinion, but I'd wait simple because the wheelhop is greatly reduced (some cars it's gone) when you lower. Might not be, but it's worth the wait and see as the ride isn't as good with aftermarket arms, and you will get a bit more noise to a lot more noise depending on what arms you use.

PHB. You have lots of choices. Everyone makes PHB's. I tend to use UMI as they offer a lot of styles and we can discuss which one would suit you best but I think it'd the 1044 which is normally $129, but until Monday it's on sale for $116.10.....

The springs are a good choice, but again there are options. I suggest you hop on my website and look at the pics of customer's cars on them, because you'll get a great idea of how they look on the cars (we have 4 different pics up of those springs on cars). But it's not usually 1" front and 1.25" rear, but something less. But I think they look great. Some folks prefer Ultralites, I have car pics of those as well, which will give the car a bit more rake despite what the internet claims.

2012White5.0

Sam,

Great advice, thank you. Do you thing the Adjustable Koni Sports are worth it for my application? I don't mind spending the extra money if it's worth the investment. I do plan on keeping the car for a while.

Also, in your experience will I have pinion angle issues with the lowered setup? I do not want to cause any drive shaft vibration. That was my primary concern and reason for considering a UCA/LCA's.

Sam Strano

The person who ultimately has to make that decision is you. Do I prefer adjustable dampers? HELL YES. There is only one car I don't have them on, and that's my winter beater E36 that is never on anything but winter tires. I put STR.T's on it, and at first that was enough, but they've softened and frankly leave me a little wanting. Note that my winter car is NOT a Corolla or a Camry, I'm a driver.

Now, this is is where I often hear "well you race and I'm not". Trust me, I'm not racing my 21 year old 175k mile beater on snows. Ok, granted maybe I'm more picky than the average Joe, because I like cars to drive well.

If your car is a keeper that's a good plus. If you like to have the most options, that's a plus. Yes, I think they are worth it.

Back to the control arms. It's the most frustrating thing to have so many people just think they need something because the internet has led them to think they have to. Full disclosure. I SELL CONTROL ARMS! I want everyone to know that, but I'm not in the business of easy sells on the back of bad information. I'm into the right stuff for the right reasons. Having said that. You can lower car all day, every day without ANY UCA or LCA changes and have no issue. Don't believe me? Ok, remember the Shelby GT's? Full Ford Warranty, lowered 1.5" or so from the start. Not an adjustable anything to be found, not even an adjustable Panhard bar, let alone arms and all that.

I am not saying that those part do not have and serve a purpose. They do. But just because you lowered the car, that's not any reason you have to get those parts. In fact those that listen to me, about 75% of the time never do those things because they find no need. 25% of folks do, because they identify an issue they want to address and it's some of those parts that do it.

Lately I've been kind of taking a back seat to things. But I'm seeing more and more of what I see in the world, people running with little bits of information they cobble together. I hate sometimes, um... "discussing" things with people when they get irritated that I don't just get on board, and it's a lot of stress for me. But in the end, I didn't build this business or win my Championships by sitting back, so... expect me to call 'em like I seem a bit more than I have.