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Finally got around to installing my strano sways that I've had forever. My first reaction:
Some things to note that I encountered during the install process:
1. I have rear LCA relocation brackets and when I went to install the rear swaybar to the axle mount bracket, the bolt pushed against the LCA relocation bracket when tightened. To solve this problem, I inserted the bolt from the other side. This was impossible to do without first installing the axle mount bracket to the swaybar before installing it on the axle. That's because if it were installed on the axle the LCA bracket would be directly in the way of inserting the bolt. Instead of removing the LCA bracket I just installed it on the mount first, then had my brother help me pull the bar out slightly to install both axle mount brackets at the same time (damn near impossible to do without a second person).
2. An arbor press will greatly help with the install of the bushings but it's not completely necessary. You can use a pair of channel locks with a small piece of something sturdy and flat.
Handling it totally different with these bars. I do have a question for Sam if he stops in though. The instructions said that the rear bars stiffest setting is the inner most hole (furthest towards the rear of the car) and that the front bars stiffest setting is the outer most hole (again, furthest towards the rear of the car). Is this correct?
It's like you're inside my head. I've just spent the past two days poring over sway bar info to figure out what I want to purchase and Strano keeps hitting all the right notes. Glad to hear they worked out for you so well. Do they reduce the amount of "plowing" that seems to happen on turns? That's what bugs me the most.
With the LCA brackets, do you think they'll fit just about any of them? I'm a bit worried about rear bar clearances with those.
The instructions said that the rear bars stiffest setting is the inner most hole (furthest towards the rear of the car) and that the front bars stiffest setting is the outer most hole (again, furthest towards the rear of the car). Is this correct?
The stiffest setting for any of these adjustable bars is the one that makes the 'arms' effectively the shortest. IOW, furthest away from the bar ends or closest to the part of the bar that goes across the car. What I'd term the innermost holes.
It's like you're inside my head. I've just spent the past two days poring over sway bar info to figure out what I want to purchase and Strano keeps hitting all the right notes. Glad to hear they worked out for you so well. Do they reduce the amount of "plowing" that seems to happen on turns? That's what bugs me the most.
With the LCA brackets, do you think they'll fit just about any of them? I'm a bit worried about rear bar clearances with those.
It should depend on how low the bracket goes and how much wider than the original mount point on the outside it is. I have the BMR ones if that helps.
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
The stiffest setting for any of these adjustable bars is the one that makes the 'arms' effectively the shortest. IOW, furthest away from the bar ends or closest to the part of the bar that goes across the car. What I'd term the innermost holes.
Norm
This makes sense to me though as the holes on the outside would provide more leverage and therefore be able to bend the bar easier.
Clearly says on the eibach install that the outer most mount point is the stiffest for the front bar.
That picture is completely wrong. No ifs, ands, or buts about it. Shorter the lever arm, stiffer the bar. So inner most mounting point is always the stiffest, and outer most is always the softest.
1. I have rear LCA relocation brackets and when I went to install the rear swaybar to the axle mount bracket, the bolt pushed against the LCA relocation bracket when tightened. To solve this problem, I inserted the bolt from the other side. This was impossible to do without first installing the axle mount bracket to the swaybar before installing it on the axle. That's because if it were installed on the axle the LCA bracket would be directly in the way of inserting the bolt. Instead of removing the LCA bracket I just installed it on the mount first, then had my brother help me pull the bar out slightly to install both axle mount brackets at the same time (damn near impossible to do without a second person).
Got any pics showing the interference? I have the Strano bars and will be adding relocation brackets this Spring.
Yeah that picture is completely wrong. I'm probably going to be looking at some Maximum Motorsports LCA brackets sometime soon so I guess I'll just have to see if they work.
Got any pics showing the interference? I have the Strano bars and will be adding relocation brackets this Spring.
I have to get back up under it to take measurement on the pinion flange to make a tool for this weekend (4.10's goin in baby!) so yeah I will snap a shot and explain it further this afternoon (maybe at lunch).
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
AM's installation instructions are flat-out wrong.
Norm
That's what I figured which is why I didn't follow them but rather my intuitions.
As ya can see, not much clearance between the BMR brackets and the Strano bars. In fact, I had to swap the bolt on the LCA bracket 180 otherwise the sway bar hit the nut+bolt. The head of the bolt is lower profile than the nut, obviously. Same for the sway bar axle bracket, normally the bolt goes in from the outside of the car but I had to swap it 180 or again the bolt and nut would hit.
Luckily, any amount of clearance should work because both brackets should be stationary relative to the axle.
Swapped bolt on LCA bracket and as you can also see, no way of getting the sway bar bolt in without either removing the LCA bracket or installing the sway bar to the axle mount first.
Shot of the rest of the rear suspension (Steeda Adj. UCA, GT500 Mount, and bell housing roto bushing not pictured):
Strano Swaybar - Just some notes
