decableguy2000

I'm in the process of replacing / upgrading the suspension in my wife's V6. The bushings front and rear are worn out and could use shocks as well. This is her DD so nothing exotic just wants better handling. This is my shopping list so far
Ford performance lower control arms
Koni yellow shocks
SR performance lowering springs
Ford GT500 strut mounts
BMR upper and lower control arms. (non adjustable)
BMR upper rear mount
Adjustable pan hard bar
Rear LCA relocation brackets

Already has had the sway bars added and upgrade along with the brakes.
Is there any thing I need to add or omit.

bl817

Welcome! the SR springs are 1.5" drop all around and is fairly aggressive for a DD, I have a set now and am wanting to raise mine up a bit, looking at the Pedders. you will need to trim the rear bump stop, you will also need an adjustable upper rear arm to bring the pinion angle back in spec. the Koni oranges are more than adequate for a DD if your looking to save some cash. once you install the rear LCA relo brackets, you will not be able to go thru most automatic car washes as they scrape on the guide channel. the front FRPP control arms have a bigger diameter ball joint, so you will have to drill out the spindle/knuckle just a tad. take a measurement from center to center of the wheels-front to rear, on both sides, should be 170". once you install the LCA relo brackets, take another measurement to be sure rear end is square, they might need tweaked a bit and is easier to do now while the car is off the ground then to have everything back together and realize they need adjusted. all in all, not a hard job. you do not need to remove or loosen the steering rack, just turn the wheel to opposite side your working on and front bolt can be removed by maneuvering the boot down. Maybe add a set of new outer tie rod ends. and of course, after its all back together, get a good alignment. good luck!

Norm Peterson

The following comments are from a purely functional point of view, I'm not going to address any "appearance factor" here.

Since this is still a DD, I wouldn't bother with lowering it (and then getting involved with the PHB and LCA relo brackets). Put that money toward wheels and tires suited more to cornering & handling, i.e. wider and higher up the cornering performance ladder.

I left my '08 on its original springs even for HPDE road course track time, up to running in intermediate or advanced run groups, until fairly recently. Suspension-wise at the time, my car only had adjustable stabilizer bars, Koni yellows, UMI endlinks, Steeda HD strut mounts, and poly/spherical (not rod-ended) rear LCAs, and I had done some DIY stiffening of the OE PHB bushings. I do run a fairly aggressive amount of negative camber relative to what street driving really needs (about -1.9°, which I know is a good bit outside Ford's spec).

My opinion - that's all you need to do to the suspension to get what you're looking for with the fewest downsides. Perhaps dial those cambers back down to the -1.25°-ish range.

Wheels and tires are going to give you the majority of the grip that you're looking for. The rest - particularly the shocks & struts - provide the composure, or the confidence that the car is going to do what you tell it to do, when you tell it to do it.

I think for pure street duty, something like 18x9.5 wheels with either 255/45's, 265/40's, or 275/40's, or 18x10's with 265/40's or 275/40's will put that car in a very good place for street handling with more potential grip than you're likely to ever use all of. I have run the 255's and the 265's on 18x9.5's as my "street set", the "track set" is somewhat more extreme than necessary for street-only duty (think 18x11's all around).


From a functional point of view, swap the OE springs out for something stiffer only if nose dive under hard braking truly starts to bother you, and it happens often enough to more than just occasionally notice it. You may never get to that point in street driving.


Norm

decableguy2000

Thanks for the opinions so far, I have re arranged my shopping cart several times. I did miss type the Koni yellows and have the orange instead. I have omitted the SR springs, but have been thinking Roush springs with a 1/2" drop. If I go this route I shouldn't need to worry about the pinion angle, and can omit the relocation brackets???

bl817

1/2" would be good and you could eliminate most of those components. no LCA relo brackts, no adj PHB, you can stick with non adjustable UCA/LCA. the job will be much easier (except for rear UCA). good luck

Norm Peterson

As long as you retain the OE driveshaft with its CV joint, small ride heights won't affect pinion angle by enough to require any correction.


Norm

decableguy2000

Parts ordered today
Koni orange shocks
gt 500 shock mounts
gt 500 lower control arms
Roush 1/2" drop springs
Steeda differential bushing
Ford racing rear lower control arms

Picked up a set of 18" wheels and tires from aS550 for cheap, last week. Going to rewrap them with indy 500 firehawks, when these tires are done.

07MRMIKE

i have the Pedders sportline in my 07, rides like a brick. Unless you live in an area with glass roads i don't recommend them

Mike

bl817

I swapped in Pedders Sports Ryder springs to replace the SR Performance springs. its a night and day difference in noise and clunkyness of my car. the Pedders are a much better overall spring IMHO. the progressive rate of the SR springs were a bit harsher and the suspension seemed to bottom out more with them. they aren't a bad spring, just not suited to my driving style and since ive upgraded to poly bushings all around, you feel every bump. the Pedders IMHO are a better spring for my car. I also don't DD my Mustang.

decableguy2000

Finally got all the parts in and installed
Koni orange shocks/ stuts
gt500 lower control arms front and rear
gt500 shock mounts
Roush 1/2" drop springs look lower though, I didn't measure before or after
BMR upper rear upper control arm
Steeda differential bushing the hardest thing to install
All new OEM sping isolators,
A new set of bump stops one was missing on the rear
A set of later model GT swaybars and larger brake rotors and caliper brackets
Still waiting to get an appointment at the alignment shop but so far the wife is happy with the results. It was about a 9hr job start to finish rolling around in the drive way. We were not going for looks, just better handling and replacing out some worn out parts.