Hi,

Well I have a 2005 GT 4.6 3v. Over this winter I did a lot of work to the car that has been neglected over it's years.

New stage 1clutch pressure plate and related parts.

New stainless clutch line

New exhaust. With off road on cat h pipe. With pryes axle back.

Main seal. Pan gasket from time cover seal and gasket.

New time chain, tensioners, guides. (Found plastic parts and pan and got lucky)

Well after all the work and countless hours and months later I get P0012 and another code that says system lean. System lean due to no cat and not tuned yet.

My big issue is the p0012 I know it's retarded timing on bank one. My questions are how far can it be out before I blow the motor? It starts fine just a lopy idle ran fine revs fine.

Second question how do I fix it. My phasers had no mark just two l on them and two LL one them. When I did the new chain I let the cams roll over really easy one way or the other till it stopped then when I was ready to reinstall I used a breaker bar and turn it back till I got the mark to where it was when I took it apart.( I did not rotate only a simple left or right)

The issue I'm worried about is the chain had so much play in it when I took it apart that it worn out the old chain and left groves in the timing cover where the chain slapped around so I'm sure I have the timing off because I don't think it was right. Any help will be nice. What way do I turn the cam to advance it? What's the odds I did more damage then just a took off?


P.s. no tapping or knocking at this time she is the most silent 4.6 I've heard. Minus lope and exhaust.

 

AS timing chains elongate, cam timing retards...

Timing chains DO NOT STRETCH!!!

The link roller holes oval out, and the links spread farther apart, but the chain
does not stretch.

For example, here is a mock timing chain, new:

Note the riming marks on the bottom (crank) and top (Cam)

Here is an elongated chain:

Note that the crank timing does not change, but look at where the cam timing mark is now, with the elongated chain.

YOUR cams should have timing marks, and they need lined up:


The colored links on the timing chains have to go where the timing marks are.

 

Nice post however I do not have colored links my old chain and new chain did not have a link that stuck out from the rest. How do I return advance the timing on the passenger side. If it's to retarded can't I just turn the came a tooth to fix it?

 

Put the crank at #1 TDC, and check the cam timing marks on both cams. See if the RH side needs
turned to match the other side.

I saw a video, and the chains have a link that is black that goes with the timing marks on the
crank and cams.

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...-6004-462V.pdf
Page 9 has the timing mark locations.

 

Mustang dude 08 the diagram is nice but it's for a 2v will that be the same as a 3 v?

 

Even the 5.6 3V is the same:

3V is the number of valves per cylinder; 2 intake, one exhaust. Timing will be the same, just another
lobe on the cam for the other valve, which both open at the same time anyway.

Same timing as the 2V.

Here is a 3V PDF: http://www.etoolcart.com/manual/3v.pdf

4V, almost the same thing: https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6004-A464.pdf
This has the DOHC, but still has two main drive chains from the crank, too two larger sprockets that turn
another set of sprockets in each head with a chain for them for both cams in each head.

 

Thank you that's close to the ford hot rod cam install timing and hyanes book I used.

My issue is I used the same marks that was on the motor before I touch it. BTW the chain had no. Olor link so I'm did the tdc verification and marked the chain myself. With all the play the motor timing chain had I think it skipped a tooth and I timed it based off what was there and it was wrong. So my question is if the p0012 code says it's retarded that mean I'll only be a tooth off maybe 2. On just the passenger side. The passenger side what the one with the extreme chain slapped. So could I just time the passenger side since it does have 2 chains and just visually verify the drive side. And only retime it if I need to or should I start from scratch?

 

You'd have to pull the passenger side chain off the am sproket, and advance the
sprocket a tooth, clear the code, and see if it returns. It's a lot of work, and one tooth
may not do it. They say you have to to use a degree wheel and dial indicator to properly
check the cam timing.

You're sure it's not the VCT solenoid? If it's stuck open, this will happen.

 

Honestly no I am not sure. It fires nice just has a loppy idle and I'm not sure about power or feel because I have not drove it drove it yet. It never got above 2k rpm. The only timing code I have is p0012 so I went with that. I based everything I know and about to fix based off how bad the chain and cover was assuming it skipped a tooth.

I'm under the impression the vvt does nothing till your over x rpm and should make some noise of some type. I also want to do the " free thing " before I start to spend more money and start to test thing. If you have a test for the vct I would like to see it and I could do it after I fire it up after timing check.

P.s. in my very first post I talked about all the mods I did this winter part of it was new exhaust. I'm running almost a true dual set up. What I'm hint to is you can clearly tell passenger side is off base off just exhaust tone and then pulses of the motor on that bank.

 

Actually, VVT is active at idle, it sets the overlap to a minimum for a smooth idle.

The timing changes are over the entire rev band. Generally, like with DOHC engines, they're peak RPM engines, and
generally have to be revved to get power. Having VVT allows for adjustments to the timing to help move the power
curve down the RPM range on the engine and continually adjust it for max power and torque at lower RPMs.

To test the VCT, swap banks, see if the code changes to the other bank.

Then you're off to turning the cam back a notch...