I need some help with my speed density set up.

First, my mustang is a 87 GT convertible with 70,000 original miles. When I first got it, it still had the original wires and plugs. I started with standard stuff. K&N air filter, underdrive pullies, black magic fan, BBK shorties, and a x-pipe. I picked up aset of 3:55's that haven't been installed. Then one day, stupid got a hold of me, and I picked up a new but not complete turbo set up. It has a 61mm precision turbo, treadstone stainless hot side,spearco coldside and 3:27's.I got the car ready with full length subframes, a six point roll bar, corbeau seats and harnesses while I was tearing the car down for paint. Nowmy bank roll is nearing empty, andI learned some hard facts about turbo mustangs.The weaknesses of the block, tranny, and rear endnot holding up and of course the horrible E7 heads and intake.So for now the turbo part of the build is on hold until I can build the block I want with the transmission I want with a rear end that can handle it.

While I was shopping around for a new block, new transmission, fuel injectors, ignition, and fuel systemfor the turbo, Ifound a good deal on an explorer engine and thought it will do for now. So I took off the heads, had them checked, installed newsprings, and 1:7 rockers.

Here is the current problem. When I put the GT40p's and the explorer intake onI removed thesmog pump. Now when I can't get the car that ran good before to run at all. I mean it will run, but it won't even idle. Does anyone have a diagram or some well worded information on hooking up a simple speed density system without any of the unnecessary B.S?I need togetthe car running, so Ican getthe body work done and repainted. Then I can let my bank roll recover and start the turbo motor build.

Thanks,

Hunter

 

did u block the air injection ports at the back of the heads?

set timing?

double check all vacuum connections?

 

map line hooked up nice and good?

 

I was planning on checking everything again today, but my second child decided to come into the world today a few weeks earlier. I spent the entire day at the hospital all day with my wife and new baby girl. All is good with both. I will let you know what I find.

Thanks,

Hunter

 

i would bet money its vacuum related and plugs are just loaded up

 

Brand new plugs, but I will be checking the vacumn soon as I can. I can not wait to hear it run again.

Hunter

 

I could not find a vacuumleak any where, I have GT40p heads, they don't have the air injection ports in the rear (right?)So today, I started pulling everthing off. I did discover that 6of my injector pintle caps was cracked or split. I am have a bad time trying to fine anyone local that has pintle caps or even knows what I am talking about.Now, I have another question,can I move up 24 poundersor is that too much without changingotherthings. Another question what are the indicators that the IAC is going out?

Thanks again,

Hunter

 

You should be able to buy some injector o-ring kits or injector rebuild kits at a local parts store. They should include the pintle, just open the box and check before you buy. I think I paid around $3 per kit, 8 kits total.

I will leave the 24# injector question to someone else. I have heard they won't work but can't say for sure.

 

When you IAC is going bad it will rise and lower the idle and not idle at all at times. I would first take it off and clean it with carb cleaner before buying a new one they're about 80 bucks.