my car's mod's:

- k&n filter
- ported intake (i believe just upper)
- u/d's
- o/r x
- slp 1's
- tune (chip)
- 3.5' pipes from slp's out
- strut stiffener's
- pro short throw shifter
- subframe connector's
- 4.30's w/ fully built SRA (soon to come)
- eibach drag spring's REAR ONLY (soon to come)
- 4 cyl. spring's FRONT ONLY (soon to come)
- nitto 555r's (soon to come)


my car dyno'd 319 rwhp (std) without u/d's and tail pipes, BUT with flomaster 40's instead of slp's. so i figure with my swap's done i should be around 310rwhp (sae)

is it possible?

 

Very doubtful. Probably somewhere in the mid 12's.

 

Unless someone is pushing you I say no.

 

12s might even be hard with those tires. Get some ACTUAL drag radials, and you should see 12.50-12.80s all day long, and maybe dip low-mid 12s at a good track.

Knock 500lbs off of your car, and 11s might become a real possibility.

 

well if i dont go mid 12's i would be a ****ty driver.

i have been told with these mod's and gear's i should be deep into the 12's.

 

Deep into the 12's? Yes. 11's? No.

 

Since you will have a built rear end, get another set of wheels for some MTs.

 

4.30s and 310rwhp are going to over power any DR. Since you'll be feathering the crap out of it, I'd say mid 12s, no problem. Get some slicks and your very close to 12.0.

 

I know that stalled and geared autoF-bodies with 330ish RWHP, good sticky tiresand suspension work can dip into the high 11s. It seems to be a bitharder for a 6-speed, but with 4.30 gears than maybe it can be done. Suspension work will help the weight transfer and therefore make the Nittos hook if they've been heated enough. You may need a tad bit more power and some good air. I think it may be close if you can drive well.

 

You're a shoe in for the 1/8th

haha just kidding.. I would say low 12's... with some welds and some real slicks - could be a possibility, buti still doubt it.