Fully built new edge ?
I've got a question I was hoping for some guidance on.
I'm considering dumping some money into my stang, and was curious as to what I can expect. I don't want to go Fi....I know what Fi can do, but am not interested in it. So with that said....
I'm considering doing Patriot stage 2 heads, patriot valve spring setup etc, comp stage 2 cams, fully forged bottom end built with NA in mind, fully built rear end (31 spline axles, new or rebuilt t loc with 4.10's), aluminum driveshaft, and a Accufab TB/Plenum combo with a Typhoon polished intake mani.
With all of that and Nitto 555R DR's, what can an average driver expect to run in the 1/8th and the 1/4?
I consider myself between average and good, so to eliminate any possibilities, lets just assume I'm only an average driver.
Edit: I forgot to add my current mod list. I currently have: BBK Lt's, BBK H with hi flow cats, Borla Cat back (non stingers), BBK CAI, SCT 4 bank chip dyno tuned, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, Hurst Shifter, BBK springs, full length subframe connectors, 3 point strut tower brace.
I'm considering dumping some money into my stang, and was curious as to what I can expect. I don't want to go Fi....I know what Fi can do, but am not interested in it. So with that said....
I'm considering doing Patriot stage 2 heads, patriot valve spring setup etc, comp stage 2 cams, fully forged bottom end built with NA in mind, fully built rear end (31 spline axles, new or rebuilt t loc with 4.10's), aluminum driveshaft, and a Accufab TB/Plenum combo with a Typhoon polished intake mani.
With all of that and Nitto 555R DR's, what can an average driver expect to run in the 1/8th and the 1/4?
I consider myself between average and good, so to eliminate any possibilities, lets just assume I'm only an average driver.
Edit: I forgot to add my current mod list. I currently have: BBK Lt's, BBK H with hi flow cats, Borla Cat back (non stingers), BBK CAI, SCT 4 bank chip dyno tuned, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, Hurst Shifter, BBK springs, full length subframe connectors, 3 point strut tower brace.
ORIGINAL: ripped camel
I've got a question I was hoping for some guidance on.
I'm considering dumping some money into my stang, and was curious as to what I can expect. I don't want to go Fi....I know what Fi can do, but am not interested in it. So with that said....
I'm considering doing Patriot stage 2 heads, patriot valve spring setup etc, comp stage 2 cams, fully forged bottom end built with NA in mind, fully built rear end (31 spline axles, new or rebuilt t loc with 4.10's), aluminum driveshaft, and a Accufab TB/Plenum combo with a Typhoon polished intake mani.
With all of that and Nitto 555R DR's, what can an average driver expect to run in the 1/8th and the 1/4?
I consider myself between average and good, so to eliminate any possibilities, lets just assume I'm only an average driver.
I've got a question I was hoping for some guidance on.
I'm considering dumping some money into my stang, and was curious as to what I can expect. I don't want to go Fi....I know what Fi can do, but am not interested in it. So with that said....
I'm considering doing Patriot stage 2 heads, patriot valve spring setup etc, comp stage 2 cams, fully forged bottom end built with NA in mind, fully built rear end (31 spline axles, new or rebuilt t loc with 4.10's), aluminum driveshaft, and a Accufab TB/Plenum combo with a Typhoon polished intake mani.
With all of that and Nitto 555R DR's, what can an average driver expect to run in the 1/8th and the 1/4?
I consider myself between average and good, so to eliminate any possibilities, lets just assume I'm only an average driver.
ORIGINAL: 1SLO85
What kind of compression are ya lookin' to run? If ya go like 11.0:1 or higher, low 12's should be easy.
What kind of compression are ya lookin' to run? If ya go like 11.0:1 or higher, low 12's should be easy.
ORIGINAL: ripped camel
As high as I safely can without killing reliability/longevity. Keep in mind I plan on going the forged internal route.
ORIGINAL: 1SLO85
What kind of compression are ya lookin' to run? If ya go like 11.0:1 or higher, low 12's should be easy.
What kind of compression are ya lookin' to run? If ya go like 11.0:1 or higher, low 12's should be easy.
Mitch
ORIGINAL: Stkjock
Camel - wouldn't this be better in the 4.6L section?
Camel - wouldn't this be better in the 4.6L section?
I'm trying to compare your build with simliar S197s that struggle to get to the 350-375 rwhp mark N/A. I would imagine you could get to the 325-350 rwhp mark if the set up was done correctly. I'm no 2 valve expert but I know there are not alot of aftermarket heads for the cars or really good ones. So they say. I just wonder what your expectations are. I think you will probably spend more money going the N/A route and make less power than if you went the F/I route.
After doing all that, why not use some N2O at the strip? With forged internals you could put a huge shot on there.
Good luck
Done properly I could see you getting into the low 8's in the 1/8 mile and mid 12s in the 1/4.
I'm with you simon. While it sounds like an interesting project. It just seams more power is to be had F/I. But a built motor and nitrous sounds like something I'd like to try.
I posted here hoping I could get build responses not just from New Edge guys, but also from Fox & S197 guys. Sure you're expertise on 2v heads might not be great, but you might add some advice about compression or something like 1SLO85 did. I was looking for a broad answer, from a broad range of knowledge.
Plus I know many on street strip used to drive and mod New Edge stangs, and probably don't browse the 4.6 section anymore.
I've always wanted a NA build and don't really care much about the cost. I plan on using the money I get from selling my 57 Chevy, and by the looks of what others are getting I'll have enough to completely build my car, go on a cruise, and still have a few thousand left over. So cost isn't my concern at all.
My reason for NA over Fi is it's more reliable, Power is on tap quicker, and not many people build 2v NA cars. I read a sticky in the 4.6 section that said something about how to make a 2v GT in the high to mid12's with just some bolt ons, a few suspension mods and DR's. So I was under the impression that If I were to do a complete engine build, complete suspension build, complete rear end build, and DR's if I'd be in the 11's.
I'd love nothing more than to stomp people with my near stock looking car (the only non stock looking appearance mod I have is smoke headlights) and have them scratching their heads. I figured it would be neat to do something others haven't really done (or atleast haven't done often).
N20 is a possibility down the road if I get bored after she's completely built. If I do add N20 down the road I'll probably be getting the VCN-500 by Venom. I like their systems, and have always wanted the systems that are easy to hide. Maybe I'll even put the bottles under the passenger seat, shave my head, live life a 1/4 mile at a time, and call my system "NAWS" even though it's a Venom system
Plus I know many on street strip used to drive and mod New Edge stangs, and probably don't browse the 4.6 section anymore.
I've always wanted a NA build and don't really care much about the cost. I plan on using the money I get from selling my 57 Chevy, and by the looks of what others are getting I'll have enough to completely build my car, go on a cruise, and still have a few thousand left over. So cost isn't my concern at all.
My reason for NA over Fi is it's more reliable, Power is on tap quicker, and not many people build 2v NA cars. I read a sticky in the 4.6 section that said something about how to make a 2v GT in the high to mid12's with just some bolt ons, a few suspension mods and DR's. So I was under the impression that If I were to do a complete engine build, complete suspension build, complete rear end build, and DR's if I'd be in the 11's.
I'd love nothing more than to stomp people with my near stock looking car (the only non stock looking appearance mod I have is smoke headlights) and have them scratching their heads. I figured it would be neat to do something others haven't really done (or atleast haven't done often).
N20 is a possibility down the road if I get bored after she's completely built. If I do add N20 down the road I'll probably be getting the VCN-500 by Venom. I like their systems, and have always wanted the systems that are easy to hide. Maybe I'll even put the bottles under the passenger seat, shave my head, live life a 1/4 mile at a time, and call my system "NAWS" even though it's a Venom system

ORIGINAL: ripped camel
My reason for NA over Fi is it's more reliable, Power is on tap quicker, and not many people build 2v NA cars. I read a sticky in the 4.6 section that said something about how to make a 2v GT in the high to mid12's with just some bolt ons, a few suspension mods and DR's. So I was under the impression that If I were to do a complete engine build, complete suspension build, complete rear end build, and DR's if I'd be in the 11's.
My reason for NA over Fi is it's more reliable, Power is on tap quicker, and not many people build 2v NA cars. I read a sticky in the 4.6 section that said something about how to make a 2v GT in the high to mid12's with just some bolt ons, a few suspension mods and DR's. So I was under the impression that If I were to do a complete engine build, complete suspension build, complete rear end build, and DR's if I'd be in the 11's.
https://mustangforums.com/m_2459394/tm.htm
That sticky says that car used a bit more than just some bolt ons... stage 2 cams, some suspension, 4.10s, slicks (look at how those MTs wrinkle...I doubt its a regular DR) and it was a coupe car. The slicks part isn't hard, as you could just put those on at the track, but in that sticky they were cutting 1.6xxs sixty foot times. You may want to consider some full length subframe connectors since you have a vert.
About the bolded part, have you ever considered a twin screw blower? Instant torque from the low rpms. Most of the big supercharger companies make very reliable products...but if you just want to be slower to be different, have fun being not that much different when you are basically another slow mustang.



