First time at the track.
So I'm getting my car back tomorrow and after I put some miles on the new clutch I'm prob going to hit the track. I'm going to be running 15 inch bogarts with 26 inch X 10 inch drag slicks on the rear (doesn't really matter). I have never intentionally done a burnout with my car but I know that it is nessesary before going down the track. How bad is it for the rear brakes starting out the burnout? Any tips on a good way to do it and not f#ck it up? Please keep all wise cracks out of this tread, I'm just trying to not look like a total dick, that doesn't know how to drag race, with a fast car. And if you've never done an actual burnout at the track before I run I really don't need your guess.
With your hp #'s you won't need to brake it.... I can rev to 3k and sit still warming the tires on regular street tarmac when dropping the clutch at only 300whp... are you auto?
course that's with my street tires.
course that's with my street tires.
Auto - roll through the water, get on the brakes and roll into the throttle till they spin.
Manual - roll through the water, dump clutch and get on the brakes just enough to stop your car from rolling forward but continue to let the tires spin.
Third option - get a line loc and go to town. I love mine
I'm guessing you are going to be making plenty of power, and won't have much of a problem spinning the tires either way.
Manual - roll through the water, dump clutch and get on the brakes just enough to stop your car from rolling forward but continue to let the tires spin.
Third option - get a line loc and go to town. I love mine

I'm guessing you are going to be making plenty of power, and won't have much of a problem spinning the tires either way.
Slicks/Drag Radials
Unless you're running skinnies in the front, you should still go AROUND the waterbox. Do this for the same reasons as street tires.. You don't want to get water in the tread of your front tires and eventually sling it down the track, laying a line of water to counteract your slicks all the way down the track.
Back the rear tires into the waterbox and spin them over once. There's no reason to do your burnout IN the waterbox, so just get them wet and roll out about 3 feet. THEN you can light them up. If you have a line lock, mash the brakes, flip the switch, let off the brakes and let 'em rip.
If you don't have a line lock, then you can dump the clutch (if you have one) and get the tires spinning. Then step on the brake with your left foot just enough to stop the car from rolling. Remember that the harder you step on the brake, the harder the REAR brakes (as well as the front) will try to stop the tires from spinning, so try to stay on the thin line where the front brakes are barely holding the car still.
Most true slicks are sticky once they start smoking, but the hotter, the better! If it's the VERY first time on new slicks, then you will want to spin them for a good 10-15 seconds to burn off any silicon that's still on the outer surfaces.
Drag Radials vary quite a bit on how they react to burnouts. BFG's seem to get hot to a point and won't get any stickier. Nittos on the other hand seem to take longer to get hot, and they can get REALLY sticky once they are hot.
Some notes to remember while your doing your burnout:
Sometimes the car will start to shift to one side. Basic driving skills teach us to turn in the direction of the slide, but while doing a burnout, this doesn't work and will only shift the car further to the side. Instead, steer the other direction, and the steering rack will actually pull the car back around and straight. Remember that this only works if the front wheels are NOT moving. Once they are moving, you want to keep the front wheels pointed straight down the track at all times.
Some people like to shift into higher gears while doing a burnout. This can result in a faster spinning tire and heating it up faster. It's also alot harder on the clutch to do this. Not saying that you shouldn't do it, but just be aware that it can and has cause MANY clutches to spin from getting too hot.
Unless you're running skinnies in the front, you should still go AROUND the waterbox. Do this for the same reasons as street tires.. You don't want to get water in the tread of your front tires and eventually sling it down the track, laying a line of water to counteract your slicks all the way down the track.
Back the rear tires into the waterbox and spin them over once. There's no reason to do your burnout IN the waterbox, so just get them wet and roll out about 3 feet. THEN you can light them up. If you have a line lock, mash the brakes, flip the switch, let off the brakes and let 'em rip.
If you don't have a line lock, then you can dump the clutch (if you have one) and get the tires spinning. Then step on the brake with your left foot just enough to stop the car from rolling. Remember that the harder you step on the brake, the harder the REAR brakes (as well as the front) will try to stop the tires from spinning, so try to stay on the thin line where the front brakes are barely holding the car still.
Most true slicks are sticky once they start smoking, but the hotter, the better! If it's the VERY first time on new slicks, then you will want to spin them for a good 10-15 seconds to burn off any silicon that's still on the outer surfaces.
Drag Radials vary quite a bit on how they react to burnouts. BFG's seem to get hot to a point and won't get any stickier. Nittos on the other hand seem to take longer to get hot, and they can get REALLY sticky once they are hot.
Some notes to remember while your doing your burnout:
Sometimes the car will start to shift to one side. Basic driving skills teach us to turn in the direction of the slide, but while doing a burnout, this doesn't work and will only shift the car further to the side. Instead, steer the other direction, and the steering rack will actually pull the car back around and straight. Remember that this only works if the front wheels are NOT moving. Once they are moving, you want to keep the front wheels pointed straight down the track at all times.
Some people like to shift into higher gears while doing a burnout. This can result in a faster spinning tire and heating it up faster. It's also alot harder on the clutch to do this. Not saying that you shouldn't do it, but just be aware that it can and has cause MANY clutches to spin from getting too hot.
Front Wheel Drive Cars
Put the car in first or second gear.
Hold in the clutch.
Rev. the engine.
Pull on the handbrake. .
Release the clutch.
To stop the burnout ease off the accelerator and free the brake.
Rear Wheel Drive Cars
Do a Basic RWD Burnout.
Lightly hold down the brake with your left foot.
Push the accelerator until the car moves forward a tiny bit.
At the same time floor the gas and press the brake harder.
Manual Rear Wheel Drive Cars
Depress the clutch, and rev the engine.
In one quick motion, "dump" the clutch and press the brake pedal while flooring the gas.
Use a line locker.
A line locker is a device that modifies a car so the brake pedal only engages the front brakes. This dangerous and usually illegal device makes burnout on RWD cars easier and more dramatic. A line lock is a solenoid (fancy name for a switch) that gives you some extra buttons in the drivers seat to control your brakes. To do a burn out with a line locker installed:
Step on the brakes.
Push the line lock button.
Release the line lock button leaving your front brakes on and disengaging your back brakes, leaving those wheel free to spin, burn and make smoke.
Push line lock again to release the front brakes and move forward.
Last edited by bluebeastsrt; Sep 29, 2008 at 09:35 PM.
STK hit it right on the nose. I do my burnouts in 2nd gear but it can and has made me spin through the clutch down the track. +1000 to go around the water box and back in if you have street tires on the front. You don't want to be "that" guy, especially your first day at the track. The first couple of times I did a burnout, I stalled my car LOL. I use the left foot method where after I dump the clutch, I hit the brake with my left foot. My revs would get really high, so I got off the gas, but then the car would start bogging down quickly since I was in 2nd gear. My instinct was to push down my left foot since it is usually working the clutch to keep from stalling, unfortunately it is working the brake at that moment so I would push the brake down even harder. I'd get a nice jerky stall in front of a bunch of people LOL. You live and you learn.
*edit: when I do my burnout, I start in 2nd gear. Not too hard since the tires are already wet, I do a small spin in the water box to get the tires completely wet. But please do your burnout outside of the water box, can't heat up tires well when they are in water.
*edit: when I do my burnout, I start in 2nd gear. Not too hard since the tires are already wet, I do a small spin in the water box to get the tires completely wet. But please do your burnout outside of the water box, can't heat up tires well when they are in water.
Last edited by AmericanSpeed; Sep 30, 2008 at 09:20 AM.
STK hit it right on the nose. I do my burnouts in 2nd gear but it can and has made me spin through the clutch down the track. +1000 to go around the water box and back in if you have street tires on the front. You don't want to be "that" guy, especially your first day at the track. The first couple of times I did a burnout, I stalled my car LOL. I use the left foot method where after I dump the clutch, I hit the brake with my left foot. My revs would get really high, so I got off the gas, but then the car would start bogging down quickly since I was in 2nd gear. My instinct was to push down my left foot since it is usually working the clutch to keep from stalling, unfortunately it is working the brake at that moment so I would push the brake down even harder. I'd get a nice jerky stall in front of a bunch of people LOL. You live and you learn.
i can't imagine you ever stalling haha mr 12-seconds with just cai/tune
but yea for o/p-its not bad for the rear brakes especially if you only do it for one night at the track.............but get a line lock kit. slp makes a good one. saves your brakes and makes it easier to do a 2nd gear burnout. also, puts less strain on your clutch.
good luck dude! i wanna see what that aluminator can do!


