The first thing yo need to do is forget about that damn light. Tree racing is bracket racing. Focus on getting a good launch, having your car in D with the OD and TC turned off, avoiding the water as much as possible, and getting a good 2 second tire spin out of the water to pick up some of that stickiness. Also, let your car cool down for a good hour before running. Don't fire it up while moving through the staging lanes. Put it in neutral and push it until you absolutely have to fire it up. Also, watch the weather and hit it on a 65-75 degree day/night. Do those things and I guarantee you will run a very low 13 at 105+.

You like that Bama tune?

Still good times brother. Not trying to make it sound like you're not doing well (you are), just throwing some things out there that might help your ETs I gotta a 13.3 at 106 outta my auto mach with an ORX and filter in very good air, so there should be a 13.0 in yours as long as that tune is worth a damn.

 

My drag radials usually hooked pretty decent with short burnouts but as fall has approached they seem to need more heat or I end up spinning. I'd love to be able to let it sit but with the way the track is I just don't have time to let it sit. However on a busy night it will easily sit for an hour in the lanes waiting to run. I don't run it in the lanes until our lanes get going at which it moves to quick to push it anyhow. I'm not to worried about the light right now since it really doesnt matter on the TNT nights. I'd absolutely love to get low 13's unfortunately I don't know if I'll be able to hit the track tomorrow. Got a road trip in the morning... times running out for this year.

I can tell I need to figure out my launch a little better. I played with my tire pressures and got a noticeable difference IMO. I just wish it would come off the line harder, Seems like on a good day I can footbrake to about 1700 but any more and it wants to break'em loose. I really wanted to see how low I could get it N/A but seasons almost over for us and I have a blower I'd like to install this winter. I want to do a few suspension mods with the blower, control arms, full length subframes, axle brace and prob beef up the torque boxes. From the reading I've done looks like the control arms are a must. And I plan on a trans and torque convertor so it really wont be the same again once it's done.

As for the bama tune I like it. Biggest thing I've noticed was the shifting, made a huge improvement. Not sure if it's so worthwhile on a manual. I think if I was manual I'd just opt for a dyno tune.

 

Spinning drs? Is the track prep usually descent there? A crisp 40 degree day at Cordova and people still have there shoes pulled off their feet walking near the line. Prep can make or break any car.

 

Usually decent. I hadn't been able to run for about a month due to constant rain and overall crap weather. As you can see in the vids I spun a tad bit on my launches and you can hear it on the 1-2 shift in the first run in those two videos. I did make a third pass that night, I heated them up a bit more and it hooked.

 

Instead of holding the brake and gas to raise the RPM, try flashing it instead. Hold brake, slam throttle to floor and as soon as you feel your foot hit the floor get off the brake. This will flash the RPM and should leave harder. Might also want to try leaving the car at idle, get off the brake, and mashing it. Brake torquing works for some cars, but not so much for others.

 

Well, you are doing great, keep it up!


Did you get to datalog our tunes? If not, I would take a laptop with the track with you next time and datalog some of the runs to see if there are any adjustments we can make on your calibration for you.



Your 60' is what's killing you. Get a better TQ converter in there and launch/shift higher and you will be low 13s no problem!



Car looks GREAT with the FR500s, btw!

 

Torque converter should put him into the 12s with those DRs.

 

What are you saying ? Idle at the light with my foot on the brake and mash it on the third amber ?

Thanks, Everything I've put on my Mach was purchased from you guys.

How do I datalog ? plug it in, select datalog and and make a pass then hook it to my laptop ? or do I connect the tuner, then hook tuner to laptop then make a pass ? Should I not plug it in to log until I'm about to make a pass or does it not matter if I shut off and start the car with the tuner plugged in ?

 

Thanks so much for the support, we appreciate it!

As for datalogging, you will need a laptop and your tuner plugged in.

Here are some basic steps/parameters we use when datalogging:

1. Install SCT LiveLink Software - http://sctflash.com/tsupdates.php (click on sct device, enter serial number, download last program on list (livelink) )
2. Open LiveLink on laptop
3. Plug tuner into vehicles OBD2 port
4. Plug tuner into laptop using supplied USB cable
5. Click the graph button in the top left hand corner and select the following PIDs
AFR Bank 1
AFR Bank 2
Labmse B1
Lambse B2
STFT B1
STFT B2
LTFT B1
LTFT B2
RPM
MAF Hz
Spark Advance
TP_absolute

6. Start Vehicle
7. Press Green Start button in livelink
8. Allow vehicle to idle for 2-3 minutes, then part throttle cruising for 2-3 minutes, and then 2-3 wide open throttle pulls
9. Click red stop button
10. Click FILE then SAVE DATALOG AS


To get the specific parameters my Tuning Specialists want to see you do with your Mach give them a buzz 888-226-9764 or shoot them an email at bama@americanmuscle.com


I hope this helps!

Please let me know if you have any questions in the future!

 

Exactly. Let the engine idle with your foot on the brake. When the 3rd amber lights up (or green, doesn't matter), stomp the throttle, but don't take your foot off the brake until your throttle foot makes contact with the floor. Just make sure you get off the brake as soon as the throttle is matted though, lol. It works well for low stalled transmissions.