Whose running Steeda upper/lower control arms?
04-25-2011, 07:24 PM
#12
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
The only issue with the spherical would be NVH. For a non aggressive street set up you are better off with bushings if NVH is an issue.
That's why we use our 3 piece bushing setup with a ultra hard inner bushing to locate the sleeve and soft outer bushings to allow for articulation.
With any urethane bushed arm there going to be more bind than stock, but we use a softer outer bushing setup than anyone else, and NVH wise there is none. Its a great way to freshen things up and increase traction as well.
That's why we use our 3 piece bushing setup with a ultra hard inner bushing to locate the sleeve and soft outer bushings to allow for articulation.
With any urethane bushed arm there going to be more bind than stock, but we use a softer outer bushing setup than anyone else, and NVH wise there is none. Its a great way to freshen things up and increase traction as well.
I know all too well, as I have exactly 3 poly bushings on my ENTIRE car with a grand total of 13 spherical ones thoughout the rest of it. I have litterally a zero-bind suspension, but pay for it on rough asphalt. But when it comes to steering response, my car is second to none I have ever seen.
On a nice smooth road, it is not bad at all. Too bad I don't travel many of those roads
Jazzer
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 04-25-2011 at 07:43 PM.
04-25-2011, 09:28 PM
#14
speed'n
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 2,248
Seriously CHE needs to get me on the payroll (JK JK)... i've enlighten so many people to this on forums. 
Although it amazes me more people don't know. At the local strip & track i say CHE & people know more about CHE & their products than prob alot of its employee's do. It cracks me up 
Although it amazes me more people don't know. At the local strip & track i say CHE & people know more about CHE & their products than prob alot of its employee's do. It cracks me up
06-18-2011, 08:10 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,387
The only issue with the spherical would be NVH. For a non aggressive street set up you are better off with bushings if NVH is an issue.
That's why we use our 3 piece bushing setup with a ultra hard inner bushing to locate the sleeve and soft outer bushings to allow for articulation.
With any urethane bushed arm there going to be more bind than stock, but we use a softer outer bushing setup than anyone else, and NVH wise there is none. Its a great way to freshen things up and increase traction as well.
Here's a picture of what the described bushing package looks like.
That's why we use our 3 piece bushing setup with a ultra hard inner bushing to locate the sleeve and soft outer bushings to allow for articulation.
With any urethane bushed arm there going to be more bind than stock, but we use a softer outer bushing setup than anyone else, and NVH wise there is none. Its a great way to freshen things up and increase traction as well.
Here's a picture of what the described bushing package looks like.
Thank in advance.
06-18-2011, 08:58 PM
#16
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
The mount plates should go to the outside of center. Easy enough to confirm via measuring the space between where the existing bar meets the OEM LCA. If you look at this, you will see the bar is beyond the center of the LCA, so should be golden.
Jazzer
PS. What else are you installing and what are the ULTIMATE goals for your ride?
Jazzer
PS. What else are you installing and what are the ULTIMATE goals for your ride?
06-18-2011, 10:36 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,387
Jazzer,
Thanks, man. That's what I thought, but I wanted confirmation.
Currently, I have DZSport springs (front cut a bit), shocks and struts. I have Granetelli uppers and lowers (junk). Front is basically stock. I've been shopping around, looking for parts that will function properly in unison and came to the conclusion that a single manufacturer is the surest bet. I like MM, but they are more for track use, which I don't require. I just want my DD to handle much better, but not shake my filling loose.
To that end, I have the following in the garage (99% Steeda): UCAs, LCA, rear sway bar, comp springs, Tokikos shocks, and shock tower brace. That's tomorrow's work.
Also in the garage for a weekend in July: 4-bolt C&C plates, front sway bar, billet sway bar mounts, X2 ball joints, bump steer kits, strut tower brace, Tokiko struts, comp springs, full length SFCs, poly control arm bushings, rack bushings, and poly motor mounts.
Awaiting the arrival of poly trans mount and PA Racing K-member so I rebuild the front all at one time and get one alignment done. I looked at the Steeda K-member, but the price is too high, it's only 19 lbs lighter than stock, and doesn't give that much room for LTs down the road.
I expect the car is going to handle MUCH better when all is complete.
Damn, I'll have to redo my sig.
Thougths?
Thanks, man. That's what I thought, but I wanted confirmation.
Currently, I have DZSport springs (front cut a bit), shocks and struts. I have Granetelli uppers and lowers (junk). Front is basically stock. I've been shopping around, looking for parts that will function properly in unison and came to the conclusion that a single manufacturer is the surest bet. I like MM, but they are more for track use, which I don't require. I just want my DD to handle much better, but not shake my filling loose.
To that end, I have the following in the garage (99% Steeda): UCAs, LCA, rear sway bar, comp springs, Tokikos shocks, and shock tower brace. That's tomorrow's work.
Also in the garage for a weekend in July: 4-bolt C&C plates, front sway bar, billet sway bar mounts, X2 ball joints, bump steer kits, strut tower brace, Tokiko struts, comp springs, full length SFCs, poly control arm bushings, rack bushings, and poly motor mounts.
Awaiting the arrival of poly trans mount and PA Racing K-member so I rebuild the front all at one time and get one alignment done. I looked at the Steeda K-member, but the price is too high, it's only 19 lbs lighter than stock, and doesn't give that much room for LTs down the road.
I expect the car is going to handle MUCH better when all is complete.
Damn, I'll have to redo my sig.
Thougths?
Last edited by 04BlueGT; 06-18-2011 at 10:39 PM.
06-19-2011, 07:16 AM
#18
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
Jazzer,
Thanks, man. That's what I thought, but I wanted confirmation.
Currently, I have DZSport springs (front cut a bit), shocks and struts. I have Granetelli uppers and lowers (junk). Front is basically stock. I've been shopping around, looking for parts that will function properly in unison and came to the conclusion that a single manufacturer is the surest bet. I like MM, but they are more for track use, which I don't require. I just want my DD to handle much better, but not shake my filling loose.
To that end, I have the following in the garage (99% Steeda): UCAs, LCA, rear sway bar, comp springs, Tokikos shocks, and shock tower brace. That's tomorrow's work.
Also in the garage for a weekend in July: 4-bolt C&C plates, front sway bar, billet sway bar mounts, X2 ball joints, bump steer kits, strut tower brace, Tokiko struts, comp springs, full length SFCs, poly control arm bushings, rack bushings, and poly motor mounts.
Awaiting the arrival of poly trans mount and PA Racing K-member so I rebuild the front all at one time and get one alignment done. I looked at the Steeda K-member, but the price is too high, it's only 19 lbs lighter than stock, and doesn't give that much room for LTs down the road.
I expect the car is going to handle MUCH better when all is complete.
Damn, I'll have to redo my sig.
Thougths?
Thanks, man. That's what I thought, but I wanted confirmation.
Currently, I have DZSport springs (front cut a bit), shocks and struts. I have Granetelli uppers and lowers (junk). Front is basically stock. I've been shopping around, looking for parts that will function properly in unison and came to the conclusion that a single manufacturer is the surest bet. I like MM, but they are more for track use, which I don't require. I just want my DD to handle much better, but not shake my filling loose.
To that end, I have the following in the garage (99% Steeda): UCAs, LCA, rear sway bar, comp springs, Tokikos shocks, and shock tower brace. That's tomorrow's work.
Also in the garage for a weekend in July: 4-bolt C&C plates, front sway bar, billet sway bar mounts, X2 ball joints, bump steer kits, strut tower brace, Tokiko struts, comp springs, full length SFCs, poly control arm bushings, rack bushings, and poly motor mounts.
Awaiting the arrival of poly trans mount and PA Racing K-member so I rebuild the front all at one time and get one alignment done. I looked at the Steeda K-member, but the price is too high, it's only 19 lbs lighter than stock, and doesn't give that much room for LTs down the road.
I expect the car is going to handle MUCH better when all is complete.
Damn, I'll have to redo my sig.
Thougths?
Why do you wish to install a front sway bar? Typically, the SN95 needs additional rear sway bar, not front. Do you have oversteer issues currently?
You have poly control arm bushings to install... where are they going to go?
Installing a solid poly/poly UCA will REDUCE your ability to handle better, yes.... I said reduce it and add a tremendous amount of suspension bind! In the case you describe here, leave the OEM UCA's and maybe consider a PHB to tame the rear-end waggle completely.
Lots of questions from me here, so please read all of them and let me know the following...
What is the ULTIMATE goal of your ride?
Jazzer
Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; 06-19-2011 at 10:44 AM.
06-19-2011, 04:01 PM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,387
OK.... please STOP your install of the UCA's until you re-read my upper posts on them! I think that a STB is just not going to do you any real good, so recommend you return it to save your money for mods down the road.
Why do you wish to install a front sway bar? Typically, the SN95 needs additional rear sway bar, not front. Do you have oversteer issues currently?
You have poly control arm bushings to install... where are they going to go?
Installing a solid poly/poly UCA will REDUCE your ability to handle better, yes.... I said reduce it and add a tremendous amount of suspension bind! In the case you describe here, leave the OEM UCA's and maybe consider a PHB to tame the rear-end waggle completely.
Lots of questions from me here, so please read all of them and let me know the following...
Jazzer
Why do you wish to install a front sway bar? Typically, the SN95 needs additional rear sway bar, not front. Do you have oversteer issues currently?
You have poly control arm bushings to install... where are they going to go?
Installing a solid poly/poly UCA will REDUCE your ability to handle better, yes.... I said reduce it and add a tremendous amount of suspension bind! In the case you describe here, leave the OEM UCA's and maybe consider a PHB to tame the rear-end waggle completely.
Lots of questions from me here, so please read all of them and let me know the following...
What is the ULTIMATE goal of your ride?
Jazzer
The STB may not be worth anything, but it went on easy at least.
The poly bushings are to replace the front control arm bushings, which are showing their age. I've had the set for a while, but never got around to installing them. Now that a K member is on the way, seems like a good time to do it.
Ultimate Goal: I'm not looking for something to road race, just improved handling on my DD. Money isn't a big issue and I got some incredible deals on most everything. I'm even considering making mine into an '04 Q400 clone, but that's strictly for appearance.
Thanks for the help and advice.
06-19-2011, 04:27 PM
#20
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
If your going soo far as to install a new "K", I don't think it is worth it to replace the "A" arm bushings. The OEM "A" arms are quite flexible and MUCH less work just to install good aftermarket tubular ones with poly bushings already installed. This will add not only strength to the front suspension, but a nice bit of clearance for working on your ride.
Not to sound like a dirtbag, but why do you suppose the Granatelli poly bushings failed in the aftermarket UCA's....??? (well, I'll tell ya) The incredible binding introduced by a solid poly/poly UCA has GOT TO GIVE somewhere and something MUST give! If your lucky, it is the bushings and you just keep replacing them. If your UN-lucky, you get what you see in my above pics or worse (meaning those upper torque-boxes get damaged)
FWIW... it is not necessary to hit a road-course to get a good feel from ones suspension
Take a quick read of my opening paragraph in my suspension guide... 
Jazzer
Not to sound like a dirtbag, but why do you suppose the Granatelli poly bushings failed in the aftermarket UCA's....??? (well, I'll tell ya
) The incredible binding introduced by a solid poly/poly UCA has GOT TO GIVE somewhere and something MUST give! If your lucky, it is the bushings and you just keep replacing them. If your UN-lucky, you get what you see in my above pics or worse (meaning those upper torque-boxes get damaged) FWIW... it is not necessary to hit a road-course to get a good feel from ones suspension
Take a quick read of my opening paragraph in my suspension guide... Jazzer