Ok so I bought a 13 GT premium RTR, the previous owner slapped a set of lowering springs on it and that's it. I am pretty sure they are the 1" lowering springs from ford racing. I know I need a panhard bar. with these springs do I need to go all out and get a adj. UCA and LCA relocation brackets to get the pinion angle right or is it safe to stay with the stock stuff. I am not hearing any clunking or driveline noise. Also should I get the camber bolts for the front? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Usually a set of H&R SS springs and a strut tower mount is a perfect set-up.
LINK: http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-m...unts-555-8135/

 

You don't NEED control arms, although I'd recommend them for the improvement in handling and grip. However, I STRONGLY recommend an adjustable panhard bar like this to center your rear end after the drop.

 

What kind of money you wanting to spend? there is always the Watts link. love that item if you got the money I would go with that. http://www.americanmuscle.com/whitel...link-0510.html

 

Hey bro, as long as you dont drop your car by more than an inch and a half or two, the stock setup would handle the lowering springs just fine. One thing you would want to change out is your panhard bar. This is because our mustangs have a three link suspension in the rear, and any time we lower our cars the rear axel would shift about half an inch to the drivers side. But this isint a big issue, an inexpensive adjustable panhard bar would throw it back in alignment.

 

Is it better to get coil overs vs springs?

 

-Coilovers are more modern. They are adjustable for ride height. They are expensive set-ups to purchase. Great for autocross.
-Our Mustangs can have true coilovers in front and shock/spring in rear with adjustable spring perch.
-If truly interested in getting a coilover set as inexpensive as possible, you can choose components individually.
-Lowering Springs can give a truly exceptional ride and improvement in handling.
-If done correctly, it is a huge improvement. If done wrong, it will handle like **** and cost a ton of money to do a second time, possibly having to replace tires too.

 

Thanks!

 

If you buy an adjustable panhard bar, get the style that adjusts in the middle, no on the ends. Reason is the passenger side mount boxes in the rod end, and it is nearly impossible to tighten the jam nut with the bar in place.

 

My axle shifted less than an 1/8th of an inch with Steeda Ultralights. No clearance issues to speak of, even with 18x10 wheels and 285/35 tires.