Dyno results
ORIGINAL: mfj
awesome numbers!!! however if you had a forged low compression shortblock, the numbers would NOT be the same. Need I explain?
awesome numbers!!! however if you had a forged low compression shortblock, the numbers would NOT be the same. Need I explain?
Yes lower compression would yield lower #'s. But a forged motor with the same exact compression would yield the same numbers. You don't have to go lower compression on a blower motor but it's a wise idea. Otherwise, gaskets and head machining would be really expensive.
No I don't have an intercooler. I was afraid that it would make that much more power and be uneventfully damaging to the engine. I did debate if I should have went with a stock 3.6" pulley with an intercooler which would have netted me close to the same power. Eitherway, it's still alot of power for very little expense out of pocket. And it's only a temporary relief until I get an Aluminator block and throw a Kennebell on it. 2.8bigbore 18psi w/650rwhp is what I want eventually. Not too far of a stretch with stock heads and upgraded cams.
No I don't have an intercooler. I was afraid that it would make that much more power and be uneventfully damaging to the engine. I did debate if I should have went with a stock 3.6" pulley with an intercooler which would have netted me close to the same power. Eitherway, it's still alot of power for very little expense out of pocket. And it's only a temporary relief until I get an Aluminator block and throw a Kennebell on it. 2.8bigbore 18psi w/650rwhp is what I want eventually. Not too far of a stretch with stock heads and upgraded cams.
ORIGINAL: RuffCat
Yes lower compression would yield lower #'s. But a forged motor with the same exact compression would yield the same numbers. You don't have to go lower compression on a blower motor but it's a wise idea. Otherwise, gaskets and head machining would be really expensive....
Yes lower compression would yield lower #'s. But a forged motor with the same exact compression would yield the same numbers. You don't have to go lower compression on a blower motor but it's a wise idea. Otherwise, gaskets and head machining would be really expensive....
Going from a hypereutectic piston, toa heavier forged piston, will result in a net loss of hp... Thats disregardingthe heavier rods as well...
end rant...
ORIGINAL: mfj
Again, wrong... Just the fact that you have a HEAVIER FORGED ROTATING ASSEMBLY, even at the same compression ratio, you will see a NOTICEABLE drop in hp... especially higher up in the rpm range...
Going from a hypereutectic piston, toa heavier forged piston, will result in a net loss of hp... Thats disregardingthe heavier rods as well...
end rant...
ORIGINAL: RuffCat
Yes lower compression would yield lower #'s. But a forged motor with the same exact compression would yield the same numbers. You don't have to go lower compression on a blower motor but it's a wise idea. Otherwise, gaskets and head machining would be really expensive....
Yes lower compression would yield lower #'s. But a forged motor with the same exact compression would yield the same numbers. You don't have to go lower compression on a blower motor but it's a wise idea. Otherwise, gaskets and head machining would be really expensive....
Going from a hypereutectic piston, toa heavier forged piston, will result in a net loss of hp... Thats disregardingthe heavier rods as well...
end rant...
i'd have to see your dyno sheet cus gaining over almost 200whp with just slapping a supercharger (centrifugal i'm guessing) is BS...and dont try to get someone elses dyno sheet either cus it should show year of car, model, and what not if the shop who dynoed your car is competent enough to do so
02stallion you need to do some research or something because its not impossible to make 200 hp with a supercharger. The easier to remember rule is about 20 hp per 1 psi, and the other rule some people use is 7% of initial hp per psi. 11 (lbs of boost)x 20 (hp per ps1)= 220 hp gainor the other rule305(inital hp)x .07 = 21.35 per psi.
ORIGINAL: 02stallion
i'd have to see your dyno sheet cus gaining over almost 200whp with just slapping a supercharger (centrifugal i'm guessing) is BS...and dont try to get someone elses dyno sheet either cus it should show year of car, model, and what not if the shop who dynoed your car is competent enough to do so
i'd have to see your dyno sheet cus gaining over almost 200whp with just slapping a supercharger (centrifugal i'm guessing) is BS...and dont try to get someone elses dyno sheet either cus it should show year of car, model, and what not if the shop who dynoed your car is competent enough to do so
The Dyno shop did update the software, but just so you know, this has no bearing on the numbers that the actual machine produces! The owner simply wanted more "goodies" if you will on the dyno shets. plain and simple. Both dynos were done at relatively the same temp and within 2 months of each other. No more than 150miles apart. I took a pic of the customer I.D. numbers to show you that these are specific to me only. the .003 and so on are the pulls that were made. The actual customer number and car specific number for my mustang is 157769. Take a look at the graphs.
Ohh, Thank you Ehmark for helping me out with this clown![sm=icon_blah.gif] The graphs are for everyones benefit because I really don't feel like I have to prove myself

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