97 cobra bad engine noise???
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 13
From: long island, ny
97 cobra bad engine noise???
hey whats up. aight so the motor started making a bad loud ticking noise.
Motor got overrev'd. it bouced off the rev limiter about 3 times and then this noise occurred. it was in neutral when it happened.
basically a friend sat in the car, revved it up like it was an import and then this happened.
yea i know. but lets get this thing fixed.
so yea, it makes a horrible deep tick that of course grows louder and faster with rpms. it sounds head related, not deep enough to be a rod knock.
Im coming from the import world so this v8 stuff is all new to me.
i checked all exhaust connections and everything is tight and sealed. tried feeling for air leaks and nothing.
So first though was floated a valve, then if not, rod knock.
anyway, i pulled the heads off already. no damage to heads, valves, pistons, or cylinder walls.
i did not take the head apart yet.
i am pulling the motor out tomorrow and im going to inspect the whole bottom end.
but what the hell can cause a very deep loud almost rod knock noise.
also if it was rod knock will i see damage to the rod bearings, crack or rods??
Motor got overrev'd. it bouced off the rev limiter about 3 times and then this noise occurred. it was in neutral when it happened.
basically a friend sat in the car, revved it up like it was an import and then this happened.
yea i know. but lets get this thing fixed.
so yea, it makes a horrible deep tick that of course grows louder and faster with rpms. it sounds head related, not deep enough to be a rod knock.
Im coming from the import world so this v8 stuff is all new to me.
i checked all exhaust connections and everything is tight and sealed. tried feeling for air leaks and nothing.
So first though was floated a valve, then if not, rod knock.
anyway, i pulled the heads off already. no damage to heads, valves, pistons, or cylinder walls.
i did not take the head apart yet.
i am pulling the motor out tomorrow and im going to inspect the whole bottom end.
but what the hell can cause a very deep loud almost rod knock noise.
also if it was rod knock will i see damage to the rod bearings, crack or rods??
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 13
From: long island, ny
ok, pulled the motor out today. only had a little bit of time to work with. got it out the car and on the stand. took the oil pan off...
well, so far there is no play in the rod end caps.
although i found alot of metal shavings in the oil pan. still no idea where they came from.
one thing i do not like. it seems as if the pistons are too small in diameter for the cyliner. its like this in about 3 cyliners. i can clearly see the rings and i can move the piston. like if i push at the 12o'clock position then it rotates up and then the 6o'clock position it rotates down.
this isnt the problem because there is no way a piston can shrink in size over time. its just not gonna happen. i mean its not good but not the problem. just something i didnt like to see.
Well tomorrow i am going to take the block apart and hopefully ill see some messed up bearings.
but already agreed that im buying new forged pistons and rods, all new bearings of course, might go arp main bolts and definetly arp head studs. new oil pump. all new gaskets.
is there anything else you guys think i should to for a solid bottom end. of course getting it all checked out to see what size over i need to go for pistons and hopefully the crank can still use standard size bearings.
well, so far there is no play in the rod end caps.
although i found alot of metal shavings in the oil pan. still no idea where they came from.
one thing i do not like. it seems as if the pistons are too small in diameter for the cyliner. its like this in about 3 cyliners. i can clearly see the rings and i can move the piston. like if i push at the 12o'clock position then it rotates up and then the 6o'clock position it rotates down.
this isnt the problem because there is no way a piston can shrink in size over time. its just not gonna happen. i mean its not good but not the problem. just something i didnt like to see.
Well tomorrow i am going to take the block apart and hopefully ill see some messed up bearings.
but already agreed that im buying new forged pistons and rods, all new bearings of course, might go arp main bolts and definetly arp head studs. new oil pump. all new gaskets.
is there anything else you guys think i should to for a solid bottom end. of course getting it all checked out to see what size over i need to go for pistons and hopefully the crank can still use standard size bearings.
4th Gear Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,925
From: DFW, TX
ok, pulled the motor out today. only had a little bit of time to work with. got it out the car and on the stand. took the oil pan off...
well, so far there is no play in the rod end caps.
although i found alot of metal shavings in the oil pan. still no idea where they came from.
one thing i do not like. it seems as if the pistons are too small in diameter for the cyliner. its like this in about 3 cyliners. i can clearly see the rings and i can move the piston. like if i push at the 12o'clock position then it rotates up and then the 6o'clock position it rotates down.
this isnt the problem because there is no way a piston can shrink in size over time. its just not gonna happen. i mean its not good but not the problem. just something i didnt like to see.
Well tomorrow i am going to take the block apart and hopefully ill see some messed up bearings.
but already agreed that im buying new forged pistons and rods, all new bearings of course, might go arp main bolts and definetly arp head studs. new oil pump. all new gaskets.
is there anything else you guys think i should to for a solid bottom end. of course getting it all checked out to see what size over i need to go for pistons and hopefully the crank can still use standard size bearings.
well, so far there is no play in the rod end caps.
although i found alot of metal shavings in the oil pan. still no idea where they came from.
one thing i do not like. it seems as if the pistons are too small in diameter for the cyliner. its like this in about 3 cyliners. i can clearly see the rings and i can move the piston. like if i push at the 12o'clock position then it rotates up and then the 6o'clock position it rotates down.
this isnt the problem because there is no way a piston can shrink in size over time. its just not gonna happen. i mean its not good but not the problem. just something i didnt like to see.
Well tomorrow i am going to take the block apart and hopefully ill see some messed up bearings.
but already agreed that im buying new forged pistons and rods, all new bearings of course, might go arp main bolts and definetly arp head studs. new oil pump. all new gaskets.
is there anything else you guys think i should to for a solid bottom end. of course getting it all checked out to see what size over i need to go for pistons and hopefully the crank can still use standard size bearings.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 13
From: long island, ny
lol. yea i know. he is paying for the parts. im doing the labor. so in a way its pretty good. but he is going to pay what it would be for stock parts. being i am going to install all forged but thats an option and not a neccessary move.
but today when my friend gets here we are going to take the block apart. im gonna snap some pics to post up as well.
but today when my friend gets here we are going to take the block apart. im gonna snap some pics to post up as well.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 13
From: long island, ny
well flipped the motor over and went to taking everything out. well what i found on i think #5 rod.
the bolts started to loosen up, there was a 1/4" gap between the rod and rod cap. i can see the threads through the gap. yea, this was before i touched anything.
so basically the rod end was loose and making the noise more than likely. bearing is shot and some of the rod and bearings had pieces missing. like they got chipped off.
the crank is a little scuffed up but im hoping the machine shop can take care of it and bring it back to life. lol.
so i dont think its anything my friend actually did. just poor engine building by someone. 2 rods were replaced cuz they look brand new. they were tight though. all the other ones barely took any force to break them loose and a few seemed to be finger tight only.
ill have a few pics up later today. but all forged internals are going in. now i just have to find some deals for some stuff.
the bolts started to loosen up, there was a 1/4" gap between the rod and rod cap. i can see the threads through the gap. yea, this was before i touched anything.
so basically the rod end was loose and making the noise more than likely. bearing is shot and some of the rod and bearings had pieces missing. like they got chipped off.
the crank is a little scuffed up but im hoping the machine shop can take care of it and bring it back to life. lol.
so i dont think its anything my friend actually did. just poor engine building by someone. 2 rods were replaced cuz they look brand new. they were tight though. all the other ones barely took any force to break them loose and a few seemed to be finger tight only.
ill have a few pics up later today. but all forged internals are going in. now i just have to find some deals for some stuff.