I'm really just looking for advice on what I can do to improve traction before i go back to the track. This is with frpp K springs, stock front struts, kyb gas-adjust rear shocks. 295/45/17 MT drag radials at 25psi. I let the clutch out a little to fast, but this was not a high rpm launch. I know drag radials need to be heated for best traction, but for the street I'd like to get the best traction possible. I have my pinion angle at 1.5 degrees negative, so I'm going to try shortening the upper control arm. I do realize this isn't the best type of road for traction. Are the stiffer shocks going to hurt traction? Yes I hit the rev limiter and my hand was quicker than my foot on the 1-2 shift.

 

The launch looked good, but man... Those shifts are sloooow.

 

I know and it's killing my ET. I thought it just felt like I was shifting in slow motion, but in reality, I am.

 

swaybar eliminator?

 

Are you talking about removing the front sway bar? I have both sway bars on the car.

 

Do you have the LCB's on? I believe you're always recommending them.
What Short Throw Shifter are you running? With one or two bottom brackets?
The deletes? that's the one that bolt the rear axil in ridged place, no side to side flex. You'll need to undo one side for the road and it will still suck.

I saw the shop I go to build a 9inch rear with those options on a S/C 2010 and it was a straight shot only car. I'm going to experiment with the Swarr-Bar, added to my LCB's with Eirbach springs struts, sway's and all adjustable BMR UPC/LCA/Pan.

Do you have a straight Shaft? if so get the steel braided clutch-line, not sure if your year is hydraulic or not but it does for the clutch what steel does for the brakes.

Question:

Have you put-in a 5 pnt harness? My shop wants to - Seats-out, rip-out the carpet and weld a plate and bolt to the center floor. That's about $500/1000 at $100 per hr. It's a Corbeau set-up and their site u-tube vid shows a drill hole to the leading edge bar on the seat frame to attach the bolt. I have and plan to use the stock seats and that means stock seat frames. I will check the O.E.M. frame and if it's wide enough, I'll drill it myself. Will do the passenger side first, incase I screw it up .

 

Go PRO Hero3 attach it to your rear with a coat hanger and some duct tape.
I'll try it as-soon-as I get back, I believe that would be very interesting - seeing what all the parts are doing in seclusion, now revealed. Go PRO - White/Silver/Black, Silver can operate via remote and the Black will Wifi the picture to your phone.

Mine is roll-bar mounted to the gray harness bar. It will see out the window and record the shifts being made or botched

 

I have the CHE lca relocation brackets, along with sphon adj lca's and che adjust upper control arm. I've removed the front sway bar before, not at the track, but just to see if it improved weight transfer and it definitely does on my car, atleast it did before I changed my rear shocks. I have the original hurst short throw shifter and it works fine, I'm just not ripping it hard enough. Straight shaft? I have a 1 piece drive shaft.

Racers bench? really? I wasn't racing anyone.

 

Yep. That helps with drag launches. I was just brainstorming for ya.

 

less pressure in the tires

remove the front sway will help with weight transfer as well