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You have to remove the plastic shroud around the deck lid striker, then remove the rear trunk carpeting. Plastic push pins are all that holds them in place. You will then see the nuts on each of the four or five mounting studs that hold the rear tail light assemblies in place. Remove them and pull the assembly outward. Unscrew the offending bulb and replace it. When reinstalling and re-tightening the mounting stud nuts, be careful not to overtighten and crack the tail light assembly plastic housing.
Yes, it gets easier after doing it several times. I've had stock tail lights, euro tail lights, smoked tail lights, and sequential tail lights. Now changing them is almost as easy as changing a pair of shoes.