a/c problem
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,528
From: New Braunfels, Texas
a/c problem
I was driving down the highway yesterday running the a/c, then all of a sudden it started blowing normal air insted of cold air. So i give up my plans(30 miles on the highway with the windows down will get dam annoying) and head home. I pop the hood and 1st thing i notice is that my radiator fluid is on the full when cold mark, when i just drove home a good 15 miles or so back. I know this has nothing to do with it, but still needs to be filled. What else could be wrong? I say the antifreeze is out, but my parents think otherwise.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 829
From: New Jersey
RE: a/c problem
I had the same problem today and so did my coworker. Dont know the exact name but its the censor? or plug thats on the a/c line. In my cavalier it was next to the high pressure port. Its easy to find but I forgot where its located in the mustang. It was a bad connection. If you hold it down it will kick back on or else you need to change it if its dead.
Gentleman's Relish
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
RE: a/c problem
ORIGINAL: l_shizzle_l
I was driving down the highway yesterday running the a/c, then all of a sudden it started blowing normal air insted of cold air. So i give up my plans(30 miles on the highway with the windows down will get dam annoying) and head home. I pop the hood and 1st thing i notice is that my radiator fluid is on the full when cold mark, when i just drove home a good 15 miles or so back. I know this has nothing to do with it, but still needs to be filled. What else could be wrong? I say the antifreeze is out, but my parents think otherwise.
I was driving down the highway yesterday running the a/c, then all of a sudden it started blowing normal air insted of cold air. So i give up my plans(30 miles on the highway with the windows down will get dam annoying) and head home. I pop the hood and 1st thing i notice is that my radiator fluid is on the full when cold mark, when i just drove home a good 15 miles or so back. I know this has nothing to do with it, but still needs to be filled. What else could be wrong? I say the antifreeze is out, but my parents think otherwise.
The only way to diagnose your A/C system is start by doing the following
- Turn the car on and turn the A/C to MAX and the blower to full blast (4). Take a look under the hood. The A/C clutch (black thing the belt runs over) should be spinning with the motor and blowing cold consistently.
- If the Clutch is not spinning then you need to look at either a bad A/C clutch or lowR134a in your system
- If the clutch is spinning but the cooling is intermittent, you probably have a very small leak in your system or the condensor is clogging
- To properly diagnose it you'll have to get a manifold guage assembly or take it to an A/C shop and have them diagnose it for you.
Easy Way
Diagnose at a shop= $20-35 and you will know for certain what is wrong
Harder way
Manifold set = $30-45
Leak detector kit (that includes dye) = $30-40
and you could still be scratching your head.
A/C systems are not cheap to work on because anytime you crack open the system you have to replace the Accumulator anddo a total evac/refill/leak test. Even if it's just a $0.20 o-ring that's leaking.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,758
From: Eureka, Ca.
RE: a/c problem
ORIGINAL: Derf00
Antifreeze is in the radiator and has nothing to do with your A/C.
The only way to diagnose your A/C system is start by doing the following
- Turn the car on and turn the A/C to MAX and the blower to full blast (4). Take a look under the hood. The A/C clutch (black thing the belt runs over) should be spinning with the motor and blowing cold consistently.
- If the Clutch is not spinning then you need to look at either a bad A/C clutch or low R134a in your system
- If the clutch is spinning but the cooling is intermittent, you probably have a very small leak in your system or the condensor is clogging
- To properly diagnose it you'll have to get a manifold guage assembly or take it to an A/C shop and have them diagnose it for you.
Easy Way
Diagnose at a shop = $20-35 and you will know for certain what is wrong
Harder way
Manifold set = $30-45
Leak detector kit (that includes dye) = $30-40
and you could still be scratching your head.
A/C systems are not cheap to work on because anytime you crack open the system you have to replace the Accumulator and do a total evac/refill/leak test. Even if it's just a $0.20 o-ring that's leaking.
ORIGINAL: l_shizzle_l
I was driving down the highway yesterday running the a/c, then all of a sudden it started blowing normal air insted of cold air. So i give up my plans(30 miles on the highway with the windows down will get dam annoying) and head home. I pop the hood and 1st thing i notice is that my radiator fluid is on the full when cold mark, when i just drove home a good 15 miles or so back. I know this has nothing to do with it, but still needs to be filled. What else could be wrong? I say the antifreeze is out, but my parents think otherwise.
I was driving down the highway yesterday running the a/c, then all of a sudden it started blowing normal air insted of cold air. So i give up my plans(30 miles on the highway with the windows down will get dam annoying) and head home. I pop the hood and 1st thing i notice is that my radiator fluid is on the full when cold mark, when i just drove home a good 15 miles or so back. I know this has nothing to do with it, but still needs to be filled. What else could be wrong? I say the antifreeze is out, but my parents think otherwise.
The only way to diagnose your A/C system is start by doing the following
- Turn the car on and turn the A/C to MAX and the blower to full blast (4). Take a look under the hood. The A/C clutch (black thing the belt runs over) should be spinning with the motor and blowing cold consistently.
- If the Clutch is not spinning then you need to look at either a bad A/C clutch or low R134a in your system
- If the clutch is spinning but the cooling is intermittent, you probably have a very small leak in your system or the condensor is clogging
- To properly diagnose it you'll have to get a manifold guage assembly or take it to an A/C shop and have them diagnose it for you.
Easy Way
Diagnose at a shop = $20-35 and you will know for certain what is wrong
Harder way
Manifold set = $30-45
Leak detector kit (that includes dye) = $30-40
and you could still be scratching your head.
A/C systems are not cheap to work on because anytime you crack open the system you have to replace the Accumulator and do a total evac/refill/leak test. Even if it's just a $0.20 o-ring that's leaking.
Very good but you forgot to mention time and money to get training to work on A/C as part of the "harder way".
+ 1 on taking it to a shop.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,112
From: NC
RE: a/c problem
The second post about the switch is worth looking into(that what I am doing know with mine), and the other simplel check is the R-134, you can get a can with a guage atan auto parts store, but if its low, then there is a leak (o-rings, hoses, the valve where you refill/shcader valve.)
Gentleman's Relish
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
RE: a/c problem
ORIGINAL: raz54
Very good but you forgot to mention time and money to get training to work on A/C as part of the "harder way".
+ 1 on taking it to a shop.
ORIGINAL: Derf00
Antifreeze is in the radiator and has nothing to do with your A/C.
The only way to diagnose your A/C system is start by doing the following
- Turn the car on and turn the A/C to MAX and the blower to full blast (4). Take a look under the hood. The A/C clutch (black thing the belt runs over) should be spinning with the motor and blowing cold consistently.
- If the Clutch is not spinning then you need to look at either a bad A/C clutch or low R134a in your system
- If the clutch is spinning but the cooling is intermittent, you probably have a very small leak in your system or the condensor is clogging
- To properly diagnose it you'll have to get a manifold guage assembly or take it to an A/C shop and have them diagnose it for you.
Easy Way
Diagnose at a shop = $20-35 and you will know for certain what is wrong
Harder way
Manifold set = $30-45
Leak detector kit (that includes dye) = $30-40
and you could still be scratching your head.
A/C systems are not cheap to work on because anytime you crack open the system you have to replace the Accumulator and do a total evac/refill/leak test. Even if it's just a $0.20 o-ring that's leaking.
ORIGINAL: l_shizzle_l
I was driving down the highway yesterday running the a/c, then all of a sudden it started blowing normal air insted of cold air. So i give up my plans(30 miles on the highway with the windows down will get dam annoying) and head home. I pop the hood and 1st thing i notice is that my radiator fluid is on the full when cold mark, when i just drove home a good 15 miles or so back. I know this has nothing to do with it, but still needs to be filled. What else could be wrong? I say the antifreeze is out, but my parents think otherwise.
I was driving down the highway yesterday running the a/c, then all of a sudden it started blowing normal air insted of cold air. So i give up my plans(30 miles on the highway with the windows down will get dam annoying) and head home. I pop the hood and 1st thing i notice is that my radiator fluid is on the full when cold mark, when i just drove home a good 15 miles or so back. I know this has nothing to do with it, but still needs to be filled. What else could be wrong? I say the antifreeze is out, but my parents think otherwise.
The only way to diagnose your A/C system is start by doing the following
- Turn the car on and turn the A/C to MAX and the blower to full blast (4). Take a look under the hood. The A/C clutch (black thing the belt runs over) should be spinning with the motor and blowing cold consistently.
- If the Clutch is not spinning then you need to look at either a bad A/C clutch or low R134a in your system
- If the clutch is spinning but the cooling is intermittent, you probably have a very small leak in your system or the condensor is clogging
- To properly diagnose it you'll have to get a manifold guage assembly or take it to an A/C shop and have them diagnose it for you.
Easy Way
Diagnose at a shop = $20-35 and you will know for certain what is wrong
Harder way
Manifold set = $30-45
Leak detector kit (that includes dye) = $30-40
and you could still be scratching your head.
A/C systems are not cheap to work on because anytime you crack open the system you have to replace the Accumulator and do a total evac/refill/leak test. Even if it's just a $0.20 o-ring that's leaking.
Very good but you forgot to mention time and money to get training to work on A/C as part of the "harder way".
+ 1 on taking it to a shop.
That's what the whole "Still may be scratching your head" comment was about...it was implied 
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,112
From: NC
RE: a/c problem
The pressure is going to be 100+ if the air is not on.
I repalced the switch on mine yesterday and the air now work great. $35 Motorcraft switch. On my 94 it was a round thing threaded at one end, with wires that clip on the top. It screwed into the tank(near the firewall)were the low-pressure line runs from as well. Yours might be in a different location. Should still be around the low pressure line though.But it is a simple fix , if that is the problem.
I repalced the switch on mine yesterday and the air now work great. $35 Motorcraft switch. On my 94 it was a round thing threaded at one end, with wires that clip on the top. It screwed into the tank(near the firewall)were the low-pressure line runs from as well. Yours might be in a different location. Should still be around the low pressure line though.But it is a simple fix , if that is the problem.
Gentleman's Relish
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,189
From: AZ
RE: a/c problem
ORIGINAL: 94Blk5.0
The pressure is going to be 100+ if the air is not on.
I repalced the switch on mine yesterday and the air now work great. $35 Motorcraft switch. On my 94 it was a round thing threaded at one end, with wires that clip on the top. It screwed into the tank(near the firewall)were the low-pressure line runs from as well. Yours might be in a different location. Should still be around the low pressure line though.But it is a simple fix , if that is the problem.
The pressure is going to be 100+ if the air is not on.
I repalced the switch on mine yesterday and the air now work great. $35 Motorcraft switch. On my 94 it was a round thing threaded at one end, with wires that clip on the top. It screwed into the tank(near the firewall)were the low-pressure line runs from as well. Yours might be in a different location. Should still be around the low pressure line though.But it is a simple fix , if that is the problem.