Battery Issue
Alright, so this sucked. Every morning i wake up around 715am and walk outside to start my car to warm it up.I walk back inside to pee, throw on a sweater, and go back outside to my car. I took my keys outta the ignition and opened the trunk. I hop back in my car and turn the key, and bam......it sounds like my battery died. It was a fast clicking noise. NowI know for some odd reason that it was my battery, cuz ive drained it before( putting my subs and amp in). I grab my socket wrench thatI conveintly leave in my middle console and pop the hood. I disconnect the battery and sit there for like a mintue before I reconnect it. I get back in my car and it takes a lil to start but it turn over and starts. Hella weird. so i get outta class and start it again with now problem. Do I need a new batter or was it sumthing else?
If you have a volt meter you can check it easy enough. With the car running you should have around 14 volts. With the engine off it should read 12 volts or a little more, any lower it's either no good or not getting charged but the first test will tell you if it's getting a charge or not. You need a minimum of 13.5 volts to charge a 12v battery.
If you're playing with your wires and it's making a difference I would start checking there as well, it seems you may have a loose connection or a bad ground. If the car was running and was only off for a minute then there should be plenty of juice, unless the alternator is crapping out. Advanced Auto parts will do a test on your charging system for free, so it may be worth checking out.
Ryan
Ryan
ORIGINAL: raz54
If you have a volt meter you can check it easy enough. With the car running you should have around 14 volts. With the engine off it should read 12 volts or a little more, any lower it's either no good or not getting charged but the first test will tell you if it's getting a charge or not. You need a minimum of 13.5 volts to charge a 12v battery.
If you have a volt meter you can check it easy enough. With the car running you should have around 14 volts. With the engine off it should read 12 volts or a little more, any lower it's either no good or not getting charged but the first test will tell you if it's getting a charge or not. You need a minimum of 13.5 volts to charge a 12v battery.
ORIGINAL: Xemeth
Don't bother with a volt meter. All it does is check surface charge. Invest in a battery tester. It's like a volt meter, but only for batteries. You hook up negative and positive, it'll ask if the battery is in car or not, yes if it's hooked up, no if it's not. Then you set the cold cranking amps (CCA), and that info should be located on the battery. Then the tester will check the actual charge and see if any cells are bad. That's what it sounds like to me. A bad cell.
ORIGINAL: raz54
If you have a volt meter you can check it easy enough. With the car running you should have around 14 volts. With the engine off it should read 12 volts or a little more, any lower it's either no good or not getting charged but the first test will tell you if it's getting a charge or not. You need a minimum of 13.5 volts to charge a 12v battery.
If you have a volt meter you can check it easy enough. With the car running you should have around 14 volts. With the engine off it should read 12 volts or a little more, any lower it's either no good or not getting charged but the first test will tell you if it's getting a charge or not. You need a minimum of 13.5 volts to charge a 12v battery.
Hey so called mechanic, with the engine running it will tell him how much voltage the alt is putting out to the battery. Also with it off it tells how much the battery has with no load. Why the hell invest in a battery tester when if he already has a volt meter it will tell him what he needs to know? If he has a volt meter then he knows how to use it so why bother with buying another tester? If he doesn't have one do like Ryan said and go get it tested for free.
ORIGINAL: raz54
Hey so called mechanic, with the engine running it will tell him how much voltage the alt is putting out to the battery. Also with it off it tells how much the battery has with no load. Why the hell invest in a battery tester when if he already has a volt meter it will tell him what he needs to know? If he has a volt meter then he knows how to use it so why bother with buying another tester? If he doesn't have one do like Ryan said and go get it tested for free.
ORIGINAL: Xemeth
Don't bother with a volt meter. All it does is check surface charge. Invest in a battery tester. It's like a volt meter, but only for batteries. You hook up negative and positive, it'll ask if the battery is in car or not, yes if it's hooked up, no if it's not. Then you set the cold cranking amps (CCA), and that info should be located on the battery. Then the tester will check the actual charge and see if any cells are bad. That's what it sounds like to me. A bad cell.
ORIGINAL: raz54
If you have a volt meter you can check it easy enough. With the car running you should have around 14 volts. With the engine off it should read 12 volts or a little more, any lower it's either no good or not getting charged but the first test will tell you if it's getting a charge or not. You need a minimum of 13.5 volts to charge a 12v battery.
If you have a volt meter you can check it easy enough. With the car running you should have around 14 volts. With the engine off it should read 12 volts or a little more, any lower it's either no good or not getting charged but the first test will tell you if it's getting a charge or not. You need a minimum of 13.5 volts to charge a 12v battery.
Hey so called mechanic, with the engine running it will tell him how much voltage the alt is putting out to the battery. Also with it off it tells how much the battery has with no load. Why the hell invest in a battery tester when if he already has a volt meter it will tell him what he needs to know? If he has a volt meter then he knows how to use it so why bother with buying another tester? If he doesn't have one do like Ryan said and go get it tested for free.
And how much the alternator is putting out to the battery is insignificant if the battery is bad.
I can't believe you call yourself a mechanic. What do you mean how much the alt is putting out is insignificant? It has a lot to do with what his problem could be. If it's not putting out enough to fully charge the battery it won't start the car vet well will it? If you knew anything about a volt meter and how to use one you could tell if the battery is good or not. If the connections are clean and good, the alt is putting out at least 13.5 volts what else is left? I'll give you a hint, it's the BATTERY! I don't like to put people down on the forums but you really sound more like a 'part replacer' than a mechanic Xemeth.
ORIGINAL: raz54
I can't believe you call yourself a mechanic. What do you mean how much the alt is putting out is insignificant? It has a lot to do with what his problem could be. If it's not putting out enough to fully charge the battery it won't start the car vet well will it? If you knew anything about a volt meter and how to use one you could tell if the battery is good or not. If the connections are clean and good, the alt is putting out at least 13.5 volts what else is left? I'll give you a hint, it's the BATTERY! I don't like to put people down on the forums but you really sound more like a 'part replacer' than a mechanic Xemeth.
I can't believe you call yourself a mechanic. What do you mean how much the alt is putting out is insignificant? It has a lot to do with what his problem could be. If it's not putting out enough to fully charge the battery it won't start the car vet well will it? If you knew anything about a volt meter and how to use one you could tell if the battery is good or not. If the connections are clean and good, the alt is putting out at least 13.5 volts what else is left? I'll give you a hint, it's the BATTERY! I don't like to put people down on the forums but you really sound more like a 'part replacer' than a mechanic Xemeth.
If your battery is three years old, it may be time to replace. And check those wires and connectors too. Most auto parts stores will check a battery (with a battery tester) and can also check the alternator. But the alternator is a lot of work and is seldom the problem.
As far as the somewhat lively debate above, I would listen to the guy talking about a battery tester.I have read 12 volts before on a bad car battery before.
First place to start for checking wires will be the location where you had the work done last (amp or subs?).
btw I don't call myself a mechanic, but I've been through many a battery, a couple of alts, a few starters. Batteries are the weak link.
good luck
As far as the somewhat lively debate above, I would listen to the guy talking about a battery tester.I have read 12 volts before on a bad car battery before.
First place to start for checking wires will be the location where you had the work done last (amp or subs?).
btw I don't call myself a mechanic, but I've been through many a battery, a couple of alts, a few starters. Batteries are the weak link.
good luck
ORIGINAL: Xemeth
But if the car won't start how the hell can he tell how much power the alternator is giving to the battery? Oh, he can't! I was never saying that a volt meter won't do the job, but it's easier with a battery tester. It saves a lot of time, and in my line of work time is everything. Same reason we have air tools. Anyways, I'm done arguing. You can call me what you want, I really don't care.
ORIGINAL: raz54
I can't believe you call yourself a mechanic. What do you mean how much the alt is putting out is insignificant? It has a lot to do with what his problem could be. If it's not putting out enough to fully charge the battery it won't start the car vet well will it? If you knew anything about a volt meter and how to use one you could tell if the battery is good or not. If the connections are clean and good, the alt is putting out at least 13.5 volts what else is left? I'll give you a hint, it's the BATTERY! I don't like to put people down on the forums but you really sound more like a 'part replacer' than a mechanic Xemeth.
I can't believe you call yourself a mechanic. What do you mean how much the alt is putting out is insignificant? It has a lot to do with what his problem could be. If it's not putting out enough to fully charge the battery it won't start the car vet well will it? If you knew anything about a volt meter and how to use one you could tell if the battery is good or not. If the connections are clean and good, the alt is putting out at least 13.5 volts what else is left? I'll give you a hint, it's the BATTERY! I don't like to put people down on the forums but you really sound more like a 'part replacer' than a mechanic Xemeth.
Go back and read his post, he says it does end up starting! I'm tired of arguing with an idiot part replacer. Aren't you the same brainiac that says put in 'colder' plugs if the motor is burning oil? I rest my case.


