I'm going to be installing a new head unit (Clarion ProAudio DXZ655MP) as soon as it arrives. I was wondering if somebody could walk me through uninstalling the current head unit (it's an AM/FM/Cassette stereo, stock) and then installing the new one. Also, I'm going to be getting some subs and an amp a couple weeks after this, would it be smart just to install them all at the same time, or would it not make a difference? Thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

taking the stock head unit out should be pretty simple, just take the dash trim piece off and there are just a couple bolts holding the stock unit in, and the wiring is just a couple of plugs...

You will need an adapter kit to hold the head unit in, and get a wire harness adapter.... both should be available at any parts store. The wire adapter will come with a wire diagram so you can wire it up easily. TIP: the remote turn on wire off the adapter........ connect a wire to it and run it out the radio cavity and tape it up somewhere around the steeering column so that you will not have to remove the head unit again to get to it when it is time to install the amp. *** make sure you tape up the end of the wire so that you do not make contact with any wire surfaces. TIP 2: go ahead and pick up a 20' shielded RCA cable and hook it up to the head unit as well, this will be the source for the amp.


NOW... the biggest 2 mistakes people make installing amps.....

1) You want to run your rca's down one side of the car, and the power wires down the other: If you run em down the same side of the car, you will get feedback noise in the speakers.... Run your power down the driver side of the car to the trunk, and the rca's down the passengers side.

2) You will need a terminal connection to hook the power wire up to the battery, and a fuse holder to hold the fuse.... you want the fuse under the hood as close to the battery as possible: this way if it should ever make contact with the chassis, the fuse will protect the wiring in the car, and avoid any later grief.

NOW: If you are running a high wattage amp, you NEED to pick up a 1 or 1.5 farad capacitor... the capacitor will store extra power so that on the heavy bass hits, you have a reserve, this will keep the amp from overheating and cutting out, and protect your alternator.

any other specific questions, please feel free to contact me, I am a licensed audio installer.

Audio@BaltimoreStreetMods.com

 

hey,
trebor pretty much said it all.
in my years of installing car sytsems, i have never used a capacitor. and never met many ppl that did, they are somewhat expensive.
i used to have 2 12" JLw6 powered by two Rockford fosgate 501BD's, and never had any problems with big drops in power, and i was hitting around 140 db's, untill it got stolen[:@]
but it is up to you, if you have the extra cash laying around then why not, but like he said depends on what subs and amps you are planning on getting.
the rule of thumb i do believe for fuseing your main power wire from the battery is no MORE than 12 inches, and same with all your ground wires keep them as short as possible and as high as gage as your power wire if not higher.
good luck

 

definitely keep the fuse withion 12" of the battery.

The capacitor will help keep the bass hitting... if ya've ever noticed that on extended bass hits, it tends to fizzle out at the end? That is because you are draining the CCA from the battery, which makes the amp work harder and get hotter (this is the primary reason amps fail). The capacitor will solve those problems. Granted if you are running a 90 watt amp, you do not need the cap.... but if you are running amps like a 501bd (1000watt mono amp) or, as in my case, two x7's (2800 watts) [sm=badbadbad.gif] a cap ya must have rofl. All depends on what ya have.

power wire and ground, 4 gauge if over 500 watts, 8 gauge 450 and under.


You can find a 1.5 farad capacitor for around $49 on ebay.... the wires alone will cost ya $80 if ya go to an audio shop.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...961790765&rd=1

 

You really dont need a capacitor, unless your running a big system with alot of WATTS!!!. Then you can just get an optima battery and you wont need a cap. The cap is only if your lights dim which you dont have to worry about unless you own a honda and have a weak alternator.... so mainly its for the looks and if only your running 1,000 watts or more it is necessary!!

 

Thanks for all the tips guys.

This is the cd player I'm getting: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3487.html
these are the speakers: http://www.cardomain.com/item/PIOTSA6880R?vq_id=none
and these are the subs/amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3522.html

Now, you mentioned that I'd need an adapter kit. In the reciept they gave me for the CD player, it says this: Vehicle comments: No Installation Kit Needed (Please use Factory Brackets to Mount Head Unit). Harness may not be compatible with Ford Premium / JBL / Blaupunkt / Amplified factory systems. Separate harnesses for integration may be available at an additional charge.

What does this mean?

 

Quick little bump. Will I need the U-shaped tool to remove my stock head unit?

 

Hey man dont buy that subs/amp setup... My friend recently bought some off of a guy, the same subs and an amp, the subs were useless cuz they were so cheap and the only lasted down the street and then they blew. We opened the "1000 watt amp" and there was hardly anything in it, the bottom plate weighed about 5lbs and the rest of it weighed nothing and only had like 5 resistors in it, so there was nothing in the amp, testing it it was barely 50 watts, so dont buy knockoffs only name brands or youll get screwed. Just thought id let you know before it was too late....

and yeah you will need the U shaped tool to get the deck out...