supercharger possible????
Nah 120k I probably wouldn't do a supercharger...
But for 5k-7k you could buy a completely built/forged/p&p/cammed/bullet proof motor -
Then wait and supercharge that down the line and throw all the boost at it you wanted.
But for 5k-7k you could buy a completely built/forged/p&p/cammed/bullet proof motor -
Then wait and supercharge that down the line and throw all the boost at it you wanted.
a supercharger will not be 0-800 dollars.
Nitrous is, but I woudln't run nitrous on an engine with 120k. Heck, I probably would never run nitrous at all, I've never really cared for the idea much.
Nitrous is, but I woudln't run nitrous on an engine with 120k. Heck, I probably would never run nitrous at all, I've never really cared for the idea much.
im out of getting a supercharger. I need some new ideas of other mods other then CAIs or tunes that'll give me some horsepower. I agree that nitrous is bad and i def. would notbuy it.
well, if no blower, and no nitrous, what I'd do with 800 bucks is get gears and an LSD. Won't gain you any horsepower, but you'll feel a big kick in the pants, as well as you'll be able to do real burnouts and stuff, as both wheels get power.
ORIGINAL: eaglecatcher
well, if no blower, and no nitrous, what I'd do with 800 bucks is get gears and an LSD. Won't gain you any horsepower, but you'll feel a big kick in the pants, as well as you'll be able to do real burnouts and stuff, as both wheels get power.
well, if no blower, and no nitrous, what I'd do with 800 bucks is get gears and an LSD. Won't gain you any horsepower, but you'll feel a big kick in the pants, as well as you'll be able to do real burnouts and stuff, as both wheels get power.
With 800 you could also go with the good old catback and cold air intake. Even a 50 dollar cold air intake off ebay. Those two together will get her sounding right.
sure why not go for it.
1 question. look for the build date on the door post tag. if it's a late 96 you will have no worries about head gaskets. if it's early then you may have the older style water passages between the head and block which lead to head gaskets going on a stock engine.
1st. go get a compression tester from advance. they have a dial that reads pressure like a tire gauge and screw in seats that screw in place of the spark plug. pop the plug off of the coil and proceed to test each cylinder. if compression is 100psi or better in all 6 then you are good to go. can't say how good your rod bearings are but in my experience they almost never go bad on decently maintained engines and are very stout.
a procharger kit by itself is not enough as it uses a fuel management unit with stock injectors and MAF and supplies an external 160 or 255 walbro in-line fuel pump. the stock pump feeds it then it feeds the engine. the FMU constricts the return lines to increase fuel pressure on the injector feed side about 10psi/lb of boost. it is not a good setup and is a bandaid setup to try to avoid new injectors,MAF.
you need to get a 255lph intank fuel pump like a BBK in-tank or trickflow fot a same year GT,lightning or SCT MAF,42lb injectors and SCT tuner then get it dyno tuned on top of that.
it's not cheap. new procharger kit for your year will run bare minimum $3200, then $150 for the pump,$100-$400 for an MAF,$300 for injectors,$400 a dyno tune.
properly tuned you can expect about 240rwhp and 280ftlbs of torque. i will tell you now most things on the street will not beable to pull that power level with a few exceptions.
also you will need a detroit truetrac differential (no ford junk t-lok),3.45 or 3.73 gears,23 tooth speedo gear to correct the speedo the steeper gears. extra cost about $600 ish including install.
if you can find a used procharger kit then you will save roughly half or more of the total money spent. they are hard to find sometimes and an alternative route is to swap in a T-bird supercoupe blower setup into your car. alot of times you can find everything you need for $500 ish except for fuel pump and suner and tune. power is roughly equal to the procharger at 190rwhp but 300ftlbs torque. both with proper gearing will get you into the high 13's
120,000 on the engine? it should be OK but you can always find a decent junkyard 97 or 98 engine for fairly cheap incase anything happens with yours. peoperly tuned it really shouldn't negatively affect you engine. the main concern is when your build date is because that could be the difference between popping head gaskets real quick or really not having to worry about them
1 question. look for the build date on the door post tag. if it's a late 96 you will have no worries about head gaskets. if it's early then you may have the older style water passages between the head and block which lead to head gaskets going on a stock engine.
1st. go get a compression tester from advance. they have a dial that reads pressure like a tire gauge and screw in seats that screw in place of the spark plug. pop the plug off of the coil and proceed to test each cylinder. if compression is 100psi or better in all 6 then you are good to go. can't say how good your rod bearings are but in my experience they almost never go bad on decently maintained engines and are very stout.
a procharger kit by itself is not enough as it uses a fuel management unit with stock injectors and MAF and supplies an external 160 or 255 walbro in-line fuel pump. the stock pump feeds it then it feeds the engine. the FMU constricts the return lines to increase fuel pressure on the injector feed side about 10psi/lb of boost. it is not a good setup and is a bandaid setup to try to avoid new injectors,MAF.
you need to get a 255lph intank fuel pump like a BBK in-tank or trickflow fot a same year GT,lightning or SCT MAF,42lb injectors and SCT tuner then get it dyno tuned on top of that.
it's not cheap. new procharger kit for your year will run bare minimum $3200, then $150 for the pump,$100-$400 for an MAF,$300 for injectors,$400 a dyno tune.
properly tuned you can expect about 240rwhp and 280ftlbs of torque. i will tell you now most things on the street will not beable to pull that power level with a few exceptions.
also you will need a detroit truetrac differential (no ford junk t-lok),3.45 or 3.73 gears,23 tooth speedo gear to correct the speedo the steeper gears. extra cost about $600 ish including install.
if you can find a used procharger kit then you will save roughly half or more of the total money spent. they are hard to find sometimes and an alternative route is to swap in a T-bird supercoupe blower setup into your car. alot of times you can find everything you need for $500 ish except for fuel pump and suner and tune. power is roughly equal to the procharger at 190rwhp but 300ftlbs torque. both with proper gearing will get you into the high 13's
120,000 on the engine? it should be OK but you can always find a decent junkyard 97 or 98 engine for fairly cheap incase anything happens with yours. peoperly tuned it really shouldn't negatively affect you engine. the main concern is when your build date is because that could be the difference between popping head gaskets real quick or really not having to worry about them
How much longer do you actually plan on keeping the car?
Cobras right, the price for a supercharger is still going to be around 4g, and then all the way up to another thousand just for install and dyno-tune.
Im not to sure why a mechanic would tell you not to get a cold air intake. Even the Ebay ones iv heard help. I paided 5 times what those cost for mine and there isnt a huge difference, but for 50 bucks to let the engine breath better and sound better, why not!
Cobras right, the price for a supercharger is still going to be around 4g, and then all the way up to another thousand just for install and dyno-tune.
Im not to sure why a mechanic would tell you not to get a cold air intake. Even the Ebay ones iv heard help. I paided 5 times what those cost for mine and there isnt a huge difference, but for 50 bucks to let the engine breath better and sound better, why not!


