N20
Hey guys,
Ive been looking into N20 just to make my car a little more fun to drive. I dont wanna do anything heavy its not for racing or anything but i was wondering what the safe limit is? Also I know i would need a tune. What kind of tune? Would I need a dyno tune or would i be able to get an Xcal from Justin and that would be safe enough for what im going to be using it for?
Also http://www.jegs.com/i/Pace%20Setter/...-3220/10002/-1
would these work for a 98 because i know the mac's wont work for the 98 for some reason. And these say no air injection but my car has air injection does that meen it would just need a little modding or what? Thanks for any help you can give me.
Ive been looking into N20 just to make my car a little more fun to drive. I dont wanna do anything heavy its not for racing or anything but i was wondering what the safe limit is? Also I know i would need a tune. What kind of tune? Would I need a dyno tune or would i be able to get an Xcal from Justin and that would be safe enough for what im going to be using it for?
Also http://www.jegs.com/i/Pace%20Setter/...-3220/10002/-1
would these work for a 98 because i know the mac's wont work for the 98 for some reason. And these say no air injection but my car has air injection does that meen it would just need a little modding or what? Thanks for any help you can give me.
for the tune, always get a dyno tune. no car is the same as the next, for n2o you should prob. use a 75 shot, you will need new spark plugs that are 2 heat ranges colder and gap them at .035" (i thinkish) and also you don't really neeed a tune but it will be much better/safer with one. as for a nitrous system i would go with the ZEX EFI wet nitrous system like this:
http://www.3.8mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214416
http://www.3.8mustang.com/forum/showthread.php?t=214416
Thank you ,
I am getting my gears installed in about a week or so, But my next thing i believe is that Whats the difference between a wet and a dry kit since im going to be just usinga 75 shot like you suggested. I thought the wet kit was just for higher boosts?
I am getting my gears installed in about a week or so, But my next thing i believe is that Whats the difference between a wet and a dry kit since im going to be just usinga 75 shot like you suggested. I thought the wet kit was just for higher boosts?
a wet kit adds the needed fuel so you don't run lean. a dry kit just pumps in the nitrous, with a dry kit you would need to upgrage the fuel system and deffenentaly get a tune.
also with that zex kit it will add the fuel based on the nitrous pressure so the amount of fuel added will always match how much nitrous is being added.
also the mac lt's are crap, everything mac (exhaust wise) is crap. get the pacesetter lt's and tap an egr into the header. i have flow 40's as of now, but im thinking of doing an sc swap, and when i do im gonna get PS lt's and a full spintech header back system. spintech has produced the best exhaust note that i've heard on a v6mustang
spintech:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...&plindex=0
also with that zex kit it will add the fuel based on the nitrous pressure so the amount of fuel added will always match how much nitrous is being added.
also the mac lt's are crap, everything mac (exhaust wise) is crap. get the pacesetter lt's and tap an egr into the header. i have flow 40's as of now, but im thinking of doing an sc swap, and when i do im gonna get PS lt's and a full spintech header back system. spintech has produced the best exhaust note that i've heard on a v6mustang
spintech:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...&plindex=0
Dyno tune FTW, however, buy a tuner that way you can do minor adjustments in the future once you learn the tuner parameters.
Don't forget, you'll need more than just a kit you'll need:
Nitrous Kit
Remote Bottle Opener (not really needed, but comes in handy)
Purge Kit (safely cleans the line of moister build up, and air that can F up the N2O flow into the engine)
Window Switch (makes the N2O operate within a specific RPM window for "safe" opperation)
Tuner (to tune the kit and do extra tid bit tuning)
All and all, look to spend over $1000 for just the parts, and well into the mid $1000s after install and dyno tuning.
Don't forget, you'll need more than just a kit you'll need:
Nitrous Kit
Remote Bottle Opener (not really needed, but comes in handy)
Purge Kit (safely cleans the line of moister build up, and air that can F up the N2O flow into the engine)
Window Switch (makes the N2O operate within a specific RPM window for "safe" opperation)
Tuner (to tune the kit and do extra tid bit tuning)
All and all, look to spend over $1000 for just the parts, and well into the mid $1000s after install and dyno tuning.
Speaking from experience, a little 50-75 shot dry is more than sufficient, and the most I would recommend on a stock long block. A wet setup is not necessary as your stock fuel system can more than adequately support it. You need to spray it through the MAF so that the ecu will see an increase in air density and cooler air charge and bump up fuel accordingly. I recommend having the car dyno tuned regardless of where the jet is located.
All a wet kit does is wait to fail and cost more money for your application. If your fuel solenoid cuts out, even for a second, boom. Don't overcomplicate something if it's not necessary. A complete kit with an rpm controller will run you around $550, plus, on average, $400 for a dyno tune. It's not as bad as it seems. The programmer will run you in the neighborhood of $300,I recommend SCT.
Used properly, it is very very safe.
And JThorn, purging just ensure that there is a fresh charge of nitrous at the tip of the line, moisture won't build up since it's a closed system. It's not necessary, I only install them on large systems when people really want it. One quick, split second burst is more than adequate to purge the lines.
I have a purge kit, but it's just to show off the nitrous lol.
I recommend Cold Fusion N2O, they're a great company, awesome customer service, I've used them countless time and love their products and their bottles all come standard with pressure guages made onto the regulator.
When it cmoes to who's kit is better, know this, ONE company makes EVERYBODY'S nitrous solenoids, and those are the only things in the kit that really count. I hate ZEX kits, they leave little install freedom due to the box that they pre-install the solenoids in.
For an RPMO controller, I recommend MSD's RPM Window Switch w/tach. It's $100. The p/n is 8969, i know this because I have the box right next to me lol.
Don't go cheap on a mod like this, or you will regret it.
All a wet kit does is wait to fail and cost more money for your application. If your fuel solenoid cuts out, even for a second, boom. Don't overcomplicate something if it's not necessary. A complete kit with an rpm controller will run you around $550, plus, on average, $400 for a dyno tune. It's not as bad as it seems. The programmer will run you in the neighborhood of $300,I recommend SCT.
Used properly, it is very very safe.
And JThorn, purging just ensure that there is a fresh charge of nitrous at the tip of the line, moisture won't build up since it's a closed system. It's not necessary, I only install them on large systems when people really want it. One quick, split second burst is more than adequate to purge the lines.
I have a purge kit, but it's just to show off the nitrous lol.
I recommend Cold Fusion N2O, they're a great company, awesome customer service, I've used them countless time and love their products and their bottles all come standard with pressure guages made onto the regulator.
When it cmoes to who's kit is better, know this, ONE company makes EVERYBODY'S nitrous solenoids, and those are the only things in the kit that really count. I hate ZEX kits, they leave little install freedom due to the box that they pre-install the solenoids in.
For an RPMO controller, I recommend MSD's RPM Window Switch w/tach. It's $100. The p/n is 8969, i know this because I have the box right next to me lol.
Don't go cheap on a mod like this, or you will regret it.
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HaV
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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Jun 16, 2006 12:34 PM



