Swap Automatic to 5 Speed Guide
Here is the guide I promised you guys, feel free to repost any part of it...
secretspyder
Mustang Transmission Swap AOD to 5 Speed T5 Guide © 2008
By: secretspyder@hotmail.com
This guide outlines the swap to manual (T5) from automatic (AOD) on the “new edge” Mustang (1999-2004). At the end of the document you will find a list of terms used in this guide and a parts list.
Here are the major different things you will need to consider when doing the swap:
PCM and PATS
The Auto PCM will work for the T5. The car will run fine but the check engine light will be on and the O/D light will be flashing since the PCM is not longer receiving input from the AOD or the O/D switch. The Speedometer on 1999-2004 Mustangs uses the output shaft sensor (a magnetic sensor on the Tranny) to determine speed; once the swap is complete the speedometer will be un-calibrated for the T5 and will show you the wrong speed (About 2 to 3 times the actual speed!). The PCM has to be calibrated to show the correct speed this is fixed when the PCM is flashed see below. If you don’t recalibrate the car will not exceed about 55mph since by then the speedometer hits “120mph” and the PCM starts to cut off fuel as part of the electronic speed limiter.[/ul]
If you swap the PCM to the manual tranny PCM the car will no start due to PATS being triggered. The PCM and the Gauge Cluster share a unique ID key, you will have to tow the car to the dealer for them to “pair” the cluster with the new PCM by resetting PATS. (Quote Cost $150-$200 if you have the 2 keys to the car, if you only have 1 key they will charge and additional $115 for a new key to be made since they need 2 keys to reprogram PATS) If you have a NGS Ford system you can reset PATS at home. Or you can drive the car with your stock auto PCM to your local tuning shop / CMR dealer or equivalent and using your Predator tuner or your aftermarket programmable chip they can recalibrate the PCM Transmission parameters and correct the speedometer (check with you shop if they know how to do this with CMR, most might not know exactly how). The cost for this tune is about $150 - $200. I have made the tune available free of charge to mustangforums.com users, see last page.[/ul]
Sensors, Wire Harness and Engine Balancing
At some point in 2001 the transmission harness was changed since the coolant temperature sensor was relocated in the block to the rear and was renamed “Cylinder head temperature sensor”*. If you car is pre 2001 the sensor should be on top of the engine and the transmission harness will not have a plug for the sensor. If you car is after the 2001 change the sensor will be in the back of the block left hand side (drivers side) and you harness will have a plug for this sensor. This is important depending on the parts you are using. If the T5 came from the pre 2001 and you will be re-using the harness that came with it you will have to modify the harness it to fit the new version of the heads with the temp sensor behind the block**. (Or just buy the manual transmission harness for the year you putting the T5 into)[/ul]
Just like the change above at some point in 2001 the engine balancing was changed. Cars pre 2001 had external balancing using both a counterweight on the crank pulley and a counterweight on the flywheel (if you installed under-drive pulleys on the car you are familiar with this). Cars after the 2001 change have internal balancing; there are no counterweights on the crack pulley or in the flywheel. If you place a flywheel with counterweight on the newer internally balanced 2001 and up Mustang you will experience a horrible vibration problem that could damage the engine.[/ul]
*3.8 engine only, 4.6 engine should be not affected, always check your engine to be sure.
** Instructions on how to modify your harness are included on pg 7. (coming soon)
Swap Major Steps Breakdown
Install clutch pedal assembly.
Remove interior AOD shifter bezel and attachments.
Remove driveshaft
Remove AOD
Install flywheel and new clutch.
Install T5
Reinstall driveshaft
Install interior shift bezel
Install clutch cable
Re-flash PCM[/ol]
Total Time Estimate with a 2 men crew:
1 day for Removal of AOD and pedals install (8-10 hrs)
1 day for installation of T5 (8-10hrs)
This list does not include the steps to remove the T5 from a donor car.
IMPORTANT READ BEFORE STARTING:
Ø IF YOU HAVE FLASHED THE CAR WITH A HAND HELD TUNER LIKE THE PREDATOR / SCT OR AN AFTERMARKET CHIP MAKE SURE TO REPLACE THE ORIGINAL STOCK BACK-UP TUNE OR REMOVE THE CHIP BEFORE STARTING THE SWAP.
Ø IF YOU ARE SWAPPING TRANSMISSION BETWEEN 2 CARS SUCH AS OUR CASE (MAKING THE AUTO MANUAL AND THE MANUAL INTO AUTO), IT IS BEST AND CHEAPER TO SWAP PCM’s AND HAVE DEALER RESET PATS INSTEAD OF FLASHING WITH A PREDATOR CMR TUNE FOR EACH CAR.
Ø IS ALSO GOOD TO START WITH NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON (NO TROUBLE CODES STORED) IT WILL BE EASIER TO FIX A CODE BEFORE THE SWAP; ONCE THE CAUSE OF THE CODE IS FIXED YOU CAN BEGIN THE SWAP. AFTER THE SWAP THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON UNTIL REFLASH. TRYING TO FIX A TROUBLE CODE WILL BE MORE DIFICULT IF YOU START WITH ONE SINCE YOU WONT KNOW FOR SURE IF ITS RELATED TO THE SWAP OR NOT.
Ø [b][font="times new roman"]MAKE SURE TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM WHEN
secretspyder
Mustang Transmission Swap AOD to 5 Speed T5 Guide © 2008
By: secretspyder@hotmail.com
This guide outlines the swap to manual (T5) from automatic (AOD) on the “new edge” Mustang (1999-2004). At the end of the document you will find a list of terms used in this guide and a parts list.
Here are the major different things you will need to consider when doing the swap:
PCM and PATS
The Auto PCM will work for the T5. The car will run fine but the check engine light will be on and the O/D light will be flashing since the PCM is not longer receiving input from the AOD or the O/D switch. The Speedometer on 1999-2004 Mustangs uses the output shaft sensor (a magnetic sensor on the Tranny) to determine speed; once the swap is complete the speedometer will be un-calibrated for the T5 and will show you the wrong speed (About 2 to 3 times the actual speed!). The PCM has to be calibrated to show the correct speed this is fixed when the PCM is flashed see below. If you don’t recalibrate the car will not exceed about 55mph since by then the speedometer hits “120mph” and the PCM starts to cut off fuel as part of the electronic speed limiter.[/ul]
If you swap the PCM to the manual tranny PCM the car will no start due to PATS being triggered. The PCM and the Gauge Cluster share a unique ID key, you will have to tow the car to the dealer for them to “pair” the cluster with the new PCM by resetting PATS. (Quote Cost $150-$200 if you have the 2 keys to the car, if you only have 1 key they will charge and additional $115 for a new key to be made since they need 2 keys to reprogram PATS) If you have a NGS Ford system you can reset PATS at home. Or you can drive the car with your stock auto PCM to your local tuning shop / CMR dealer or equivalent and using your Predator tuner or your aftermarket programmable chip they can recalibrate the PCM Transmission parameters and correct the speedometer (check with you shop if they know how to do this with CMR, most might not know exactly how). The cost for this tune is about $150 - $200. I have made the tune available free of charge to mustangforums.com users, see last page.[/ul]
Sensors, Wire Harness and Engine Balancing
At some point in 2001 the transmission harness was changed since the coolant temperature sensor was relocated in the block to the rear and was renamed “Cylinder head temperature sensor”*. If you car is pre 2001 the sensor should be on top of the engine and the transmission harness will not have a plug for the sensor. If you car is after the 2001 change the sensor will be in the back of the block left hand side (drivers side) and you harness will have a plug for this sensor. This is important depending on the parts you are using. If the T5 came from the pre 2001 and you will be re-using the harness that came with it you will have to modify the harness it to fit the new version of the heads with the temp sensor behind the block**. (Or just buy the manual transmission harness for the year you putting the T5 into)[/ul]
Just like the change above at some point in 2001 the engine balancing was changed. Cars pre 2001 had external balancing using both a counterweight on the crank pulley and a counterweight on the flywheel (if you installed under-drive pulleys on the car you are familiar with this). Cars after the 2001 change have internal balancing; there are no counterweights on the crack pulley or in the flywheel. If you place a flywheel with counterweight on the newer internally balanced 2001 and up Mustang you will experience a horrible vibration problem that could damage the engine.[/ul]
*3.8 engine only, 4.6 engine should be not affected, always check your engine to be sure.
** Instructions on how to modify your harness are included on pg 7. (coming soon)
Swap Major Steps Breakdown
Install clutch pedal assembly.
Remove interior AOD shifter bezel and attachments.
Remove driveshaft
Remove AOD
Install flywheel and new clutch.
Install T5
Reinstall driveshaft
Install interior shift bezel
Install clutch cable
Re-flash PCM[/ol]
Total Time Estimate with a 2 men crew:
1 day for Removal of AOD and pedals install (8-10 hrs)
1 day for installation of T5 (8-10hrs)
This list does not include the steps to remove the T5 from a donor car.
IMPORTANT READ BEFORE STARTING:
Ø IF YOU HAVE FLASHED THE CAR WITH A HAND HELD TUNER LIKE THE PREDATOR / SCT OR AN AFTERMARKET CHIP MAKE SURE TO REPLACE THE ORIGINAL STOCK BACK-UP TUNE OR REMOVE THE CHIP BEFORE STARTING THE SWAP.
Ø IF YOU ARE SWAPPING TRANSMISSION BETWEEN 2 CARS SUCH AS OUR CASE (MAKING THE AUTO MANUAL AND THE MANUAL INTO AUTO), IT IS BEST AND CHEAPER TO SWAP PCM’s AND HAVE DEALER RESET PATS INSTEAD OF FLASHING WITH A PREDATOR CMR TUNE FOR EACH CAR.
Ø IS ALSO GOOD TO START WITH NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON (NO TROUBLE CODES STORED) IT WILL BE EASIER TO FIX A CODE BEFORE THE SWAP; ONCE THE CAUSE OF THE CODE IS FIXED YOU CAN BEGIN THE SWAP. AFTER THE SWAP THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON UNTIL REFLASH. TRYING TO FIX A TROUBLE CODE WILL BE MORE DIFICULT IF YOU START WITH ONE SINCE YOU WONT KNOW FOR SURE IF ITS RELATED TO THE SWAP OR NOT.
Ø [b][font="times new roman"]MAKE SURE TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM WHEN
I heard estimates for a shop to do this is couple grand plus parts (what a rip off, is not that difficult), there is a website that sells the all the parts needed as a kit, if i remember correctly it was between $2500 to $3000 for the kit, let me know if you want the link but my advice is do wat i did and find a wrecked or salvage mustang instead of the kit, now i have 2 MUSTANGS!! ...
I was referred to D&D Transmissions by DiabloSport when I was doing the swap, their kit is $2899 here is the link http://www.ddperformance.com/T56%20Kit%2096-04.htm but at least 4 dat highprice u get a T56 and an aluminum driveshaft.
I got the donor car for $400 bucks, $200 for new clutch, $150 for reflashing the PCM and $150 for flywheel= About $900 bucks, the best $900 bucks i ever spent!
Notice that the kits is all bolt on (if you do it yourself is bolt on too), all the manual parts fit the auto with no welding required, there is only some cutting ONLY if you want clear access to the shifter base so you can swap a short throw shifter in the future, hope this helps...
I got the donor car for $400 bucks, $200 for new clutch, $150 for reflashing the PCM and $150 for flywheel= About $900 bucks, the best $900 bucks i ever spent!
Notice that the kits is all bolt on (if you do it yourself is bolt on too), all the manual parts fit the auto with no welding required, there is only some cutting ONLY if you want clear access to the shifter base so you can swap a short throw shifter in the future, hope this helps...


