V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs Technical discussions on the 3.8L and 3.9L V6 torque monsters

Head Gaskets

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Old 06-10-2008, 12:04 PM
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jfdfire2
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Default Head Gaskets

I recently bought a 95 mustang with a 3.8 V6. It had a head gasket blown and I just got the heads back from getting them resurfaced. I am sure I remember reading on the forum that I should use 99 3.8 replacement gaskets when I go to reassemble. Is this correct and does it matter if they are acutal ford gaskets or will the fel-pro ones work ok? I would like to do this once and have it last a while. Also does someone have the touque specs and sequence for the heads?
Thanks any the help.
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Old 06-10-2008, 04:58 PM
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cobra232
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Default RE: Head Gaskets

99+ MLS (multi layer steel) gaskets from ford along with ARP head bolts for the 95 is the only way to go. do not use Felpro gaskets or head bolts. they are junk in my experience. they just don't last. i don't go by the standard torque specs. i do 35ftlbs from the inner cylinder outboard to the ends then 50ftlbs then 60ftlbs for an NA engine. i also spray the gaskets with copper gasket spray brfoe puting them on and let the spray get very tacky on the gaskets before you put them back on. ideally a set of 97 or 98 or supercoupe heads with the 99+ gaskets would be ideal but the 97/98 heads have a smaller intake bolt which sucks *** and is too small and easy to snap off in the heads. supercoupe heads and the 99+ gaskets and the arp head bolts are perfect for 94-96 engines but if your heads are already ready to go the 99+ ford gaskets with the 95 arp bolts and copper spray will work great. make sure the block deck surface is completely clean and dry brfore installing the gaskets
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Old 06-10-2008, 07:06 PM
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jfdfire2
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Default RE: Head Gaskets

I had the heads resurfaced, cleaned and pressure tested and the machine shop said they were in great shape. So I good to go there. I can't find the ARP head bolts locally but I did buy ROL bolts not the fel-pro so I hope they work ok. Now the copper sealant does it go on both sides of the gasket or just one? also all I'm seeing forthis is the paste stuff will that work??
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Old 06-10-2008, 07:30 PM
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cobra232
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Default RE: Head Gaskets

ORIGINAL: jfdfire2

I had the heads resurfaced, cleaned and pressure tested and the machine shop said they were in great shape. So I good to go there. I can't find the ARP head bolts locally but I did buy ROL bolts not the fel-pro so I hope they work ok. Now the copper sealant does it go on both sides of the gasket or just one? also all I'm seeing forthis is the paste stuff will that work??
ROL bolts are alittle better than felpro. but not great. www.rpm-mustangs.com or www.supersixmotorsports.com or www.delkperformance.com all carry the correct arp head bolts for your car. if your using ROL bolts don't exceed 50ftlbs. start at 20ftlbs then 35 then 50 max.

as far as the copper gasket spray almost any autoparts store should carry it. if you can't find it i'll send you a can.
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Old 06-10-2008, 07:52 PM
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TheMichiganRA
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Default RE: Head Gaskets

Glad to hear this info. I also have a blown head gasket. I thought those fel-pros were junk.. I couldn't remember what other gasket brands were out there that were good. I usually like to keep it Ford original - so I'm glad to hear Ford's stuff is good to use. I hope they don't cost a arm and a leg.
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Old 06-10-2008, 10:48 PM
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jfdfire2
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Default RE: Head Gaskets

My gaskets will be at the dealer on Thursday and they are about $100 for the set. I think it was $56 for the drivers side and $42 for the passenger side. I going to use the ROL head bolts because I would like to get it back on the road this weekend. So 50 ftlb max for those it is. Thanks for the help
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Old 06-10-2008, 11:07 PM
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TheMichiganRA
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Default RE: Head Gaskets

What about all of your other gaskets? Did you get them through Ford too? How much did those cost you?
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Old 06-11-2008, 08:17 AM
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jfdfire2
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Default RE: Head Gaskets

No I bought the rest of them from Oreilly's for about $40.00 for everything else. Ford wanted over $120 for the rest of them.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:20 PM
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Sorry to bump this old thread but im putting back my head this friday. I have a checklist, but im not sure if its right and/or complete.

1. Heads are getting a valve job and resurfaced.
2. Rockers need to be torqued to ?
3. New headbolts
4. New Head gaskets
5. new upper and lower intake gaskets.
6. Head bolts torqued to 60ftlbs? or torqued to ford specs ?

Anything else that im missing?
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cobra232
ROL bolts are alittle better than felpro. but not great. www.rpm-mustangs.com or www.supersixmotorsports.com or www.delkperformance.com all carry the correct arp head bolts for your car. if your using ROL bolts don't exceed 50ftlbs. start at 20ftlbs then 35 then 50 max.

as far as the copper gasket spray almost any autoparts store should carry it. if you can't find it i'll send you a can.
For those that dont wanna read my little story below, long story short, DONT BUY FELPRO bolts, I dont think felpro is directly the problem, these damn heads should have been designed to use 1/2" bolts from the factory, but since they were not, BUY ARP and nothin else. I will never use felpro bolts on a mustang again! period! buy ARP and then on the last torque step where it says to loosen just torque to 60 then 75 and be done with it and confident that you arent gonna have a problem after all that work!

my story:

Just bought my first mustang, its a 94 convertible with the v6. I already bought the felpro gaskets and bolts, DOH. I found this post so I torqued to 20-35-50 and after the car was all the way back together, once I fired it up exhaust was getting pushed into the cooling system still, but no oil or water mixing fortunately.

So I shut it off and tore it back down just far enough to get to the head bolts again. I torqued the long bolts to 70 and the short ones to 65, but let me tell ya, I was not comfortable doing that AT ALL. I was so worried a damn bolt was gonna snap off, Ive gotten fairly good at looking at the size of a bolt and having a good idea when its gonna snap and this worried me big time.

Anyway with 70 on the long ones and 65 on the short, and all back together. The water seems to be all topped off, but I gotta tell ya it had me a bit worried. I might throw some block sealer in there for good measure.

ON A SECOND NOTE, I plan on buying a NEW torque wrench, ive had mine more than a couple years and im kinda wondering if its still accurate or not. It should be because I always release the tension when Im done using it, but to be safe I plan on buying a new one and tossing this one in the trash.

Last edited by jakegaisser; 03-26-2012 at 05:45 PM.
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