[sm=exactly.gif] heres some good links.

Turbo info
The diffrence's
Superchargers & Blowers

 

Twin-screws, centrifugal supercharger, & turbos are a good route to go. I happen to like turbos the most out of the 3. Of the superchargers I like centrifugals more than the twin-screw, but it depends on the person. The only time I really want the power is in mid-high rpm. I see very little reason to have power in low rpm unless you have a 2speed transmission with high gears.

There is nothing wrong with a single kit it's just that 95% of the companies I see out there do a bad job @ making kits imo. It's not just single kits, but twins aswell. They don't seem to experiment any. They throw a kit together & patent the design, they spend no time trying different things like moving the turbo to different locations, using a different header design, ect... A single is going to produce alot of power, more than enough for a street car. I plan on single turboing my V6 Probe GT, but I'm using a different design than any other company does just as an experiment to see if it performs better than a single kit I did before for a friend. Not to mention alot of work is involved in twin turboing a FWD V6. Last time I did it. I didn't know what all was involved, but I quickly found out it was a big job. Turboing a car is not a hard job, just time consuming, but I had to relocate some things on mine. The thing I like about twins on a twin bank engine is that you can get the exhaust pulses almost perfect & you can keep the turbo close to the engine so you don't lose much heat. If you have a single you have to run longer pipes which gives it more time to cool & in most cases companies run crossover pipes, so whichever bank is farthest away from the turbo is not phased right with the other side & that side has more time to cool. I would recommend a single kit if you don't plan on trying to get the maximum power out of it. I like to do the best job I can do since I am spending a lot of money on it.

Well the way I see it, roots are the worst supercharger you can get. So why would you want to spend alot of money for a roots kit when you could buy something better for the same price? It's an ok if it came on the car, any boost is better than none. I would buy one if I had a car I only planned on getting up to 3000rpm in. I would definetly rather have a roots supercharger than no boost. If someone gave me the equipment for very cheap I would take the time to fabricate & hook it up.

Maybe he meant exhaust gasses? Sounds like he may have read an article on it & forgot the exhaust part. Where do you work?

 

at a truck shop rebuilding turbo deisel engines.


i just hate it when people try saying stuff without researching it first. i can run a Cat 4.4 liter engine at speed with the turbo spooling around 1-2 PSI, as soon as i put a load on the engine it take .61 seconds to go from 1-2 PSI to 18-25 PSI, all at the same engine speed which on most of the engines i work on is a whopping (for deisels) 2250 rpms. the reason for turbo lag on small motors, like hondas, is they have very low exhaust heat down low but make alot of heat up high. this is the reason mazda does not make a turbo rotary anymore, the exhaust heat can actually reach above 1500 degrees and boost at idle, not good.

on the other hand, a 3.8 ford v6, can spool a turbo to full boost at WOT at 2500 rpms.

 

So what you're saying is, that if I run my 4 cyl turbo at idle and there's no boost, that I can stick a propane torch on the manifold and I'll get boost because of the increased heat? I don't go for that. I'll still keep believing that they run on the increased volume of exhaust gas flowing through the same diameter pipes, hence moving at a greater speed, moving the turbine faster....

 

if you have a boost gauge go free rev you engine and see if it boosts.


now in theory, if you did take a torch and superheated your exhaust manifold it would boost faster, but don't do it. if you want it to boost faster get a ball-bearing turbo with a smaller housing and it will spool faster.














BTW, the 4.4 liter engine i was talking about is a 3-banger.

 

Heat does play a very important role in turbocharging. The closer to the engine the turbo is the better for performance, but you won't see anything from torching your manifold. You aren't going to heat the exhaust gases up to what they need to be at to spool the turbo to full boost. Hotter air is bigger air, so it's like pushing a bigger volume of air through the turbo.

Many things can change the boost threshold. I've played around with 2 single setups on a 2.5 V6, one had a .58 A/R exhaust housing & one had a .70. The .70 noticably produced more overall power, but spooled 300rpm later than the .58 housing. Both were T4/T04B On Center turbochargers with H3 wheels

 

Ok, so I understand that, but to say that turbo's run on heat, not gasses is untrue. The heat may have more of an effect on the exhaust gasses moving through than rpm does, but they do not run on heat.

 

I never said it would run on heat alone. A turbocharger needs both heat & the exhaust gasses. Without heat it would barely offer an advantage if it was a small turbocharger, You wouldn't have the volume of exhaust gas needed to power it. With heat but not exhaust gas, the turbo wouldn't work at all.

 

ok i know someone put links down allready but how does forcing air into the cylinders increase horse power? in lamen terms please. is just forcing the air in like acting like the explosion?

 

n/m about that question, i found my answer, but if the tubin runs of heat and exhaust fumes, i thought you want cold air going into the cylinders.....