Nitrous
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 75
From:
Nitrous
Anyone on here have/know anyone who has nitrous on a v6 stang? I have a couple questions...
1 - Is it safe?
2 - What are the advantages of having this?
3 - How expenive is a refill and where would i get a refill?
4 - Is there anything else you need to upgrade besides spark plugs, ignition wires, and coils to accomadate nitrous?
5 - Does the safety change if your running a 100 shot as opposed to a 50 or whatever?
Thanks.
1 - Is it safe?
2 - What are the advantages of having this?
3 - How expenive is a refill and where would i get a refill?
4 - Is there anything else you need to upgrade besides spark plugs, ignition wires, and coils to accomadate nitrous?
5 - Does the safety change if your running a 100 shot as opposed to a 50 or whatever?
Thanks.
The Godfather
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 15,480
From: Temple, Texas
RE: Nitrous
ORIGINAL: northbaseball22
Anyone on here have/know anyone who has nitrous on a v6 stang? I have a couple questions...
1 - Is it safe? Yes, if tuned properly, or a safe (75 hp or less) dry shot
2 - What are the advantages of having this? Instant power at the flip of a switch
3 - How expenive is a refill and where would i get a refill? Depends on the area, but I believe it's around $4 a pound
4 - Is there anything else you need to upgrade besides spark plugs, ignition wires, and coils to accomadate nitrous? Nope there are extras, such as the WOT switch, and remote bottle opener that you'll need.
5 - Does the safety change if your running a 100 shot as opposed to a 50 or whatever? Yes, the higher the shot, the more strain on the engine, and the more tuning that's needed. 75 dry shot or less requires little to no tuning, above 75 dry requires good tuning. All wet shots require some type of tuning.
Thanks.
Anyone on here have/know anyone who has nitrous on a v6 stang? I have a couple questions...
1 - Is it safe? Yes, if tuned properly, or a safe (75 hp or less) dry shot
2 - What are the advantages of having this? Instant power at the flip of a switch
3 - How expenive is a refill and where would i get a refill? Depends on the area, but I believe it's around $4 a pound
4 - Is there anything else you need to upgrade besides spark plugs, ignition wires, and coils to accomadate nitrous? Nope there are extras, such as the WOT switch, and remote bottle opener that you'll need.
5 - Does the safety change if your running a 100 shot as opposed to a 50 or whatever? Yes, the higher the shot, the more strain on the engine, and the more tuning that's needed. 75 dry shot or less requires little to no tuning, above 75 dry requires good tuning. All wet shots require some type of tuning.
Thanks.
Downsides - constant refills depending on how often you use the kit, tuning can be expensive, once it's all said and done, the total price is generally close to that of an S/C.
Buyer Beware
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,586
RE: Nitrous
ORIGINAL: jthorn9
One question you didn't ask:
Downsides - constant refills depending on how often you use the kit, tuning can be expensive, once it's all said and done, the total price is generally close to that of an S/C.
ORIGINAL: northbaseball22
Anyone on here have/know anyone who has nitrous on a v6 stang? I have a couple questions...
1 - Is it safe? Yes, if tuned properly, or a safe (75 hp or less) dry shot
2 - What are the advantages of having this? Instant power at the flip of a switch
3 - How expenive is a refill and where would i get a refill? Depends on the area, but I believe it's around $4 a pound
4 - Is there anything else you need to upgrade besides spark plugs, ignition wires, and coils to accomadate nitrous? Nope there are extras, such as the WOT switch, and remote bottle opener that you'll need.
5 - Does the safety change if your running a 100 shot as opposed to a 50 or whatever? Yes, the higher the shot, the more strain on the engine, and the more tuning that's needed. 75 dry shot or less requires little to no tuning, above 75 dry requires good tuning. All wet shots require some type of tuning.
Thanks.
Anyone on here have/know anyone who has nitrous on a v6 stang? I have a couple questions...
1 - Is it safe? Yes, if tuned properly, or a safe (75 hp or less) dry shot
2 - What are the advantages of having this? Instant power at the flip of a switch
3 - How expenive is a refill and where would i get a refill? Depends on the area, but I believe it's around $4 a pound
4 - Is there anything else you need to upgrade besides spark plugs, ignition wires, and coils to accomadate nitrous? Nope there are extras, such as the WOT switch, and remote bottle opener that you'll need.
5 - Does the safety change if your running a 100 shot as opposed to a 50 or whatever? Yes, the higher the shot, the more strain on the engine, and the more tuning that's needed. 75 dry shot or less requires little to no tuning, above 75 dry requires good tuning. All wet shots require some type of tuning.
Thanks.
Downsides - constant refills depending on how often you use the kit, tuning can be expensive, once it's all said and done, the total price is generally close to that of an S/C.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,003
From:
RE: Nitrous
jthorn, i gotta disagree with you on somestuff here.
1. i agree with half of your first answer, and the reason i disagree has more to do with another answer so ill get to that in a minute
2. no arguin there
3. i havent paid that in a good long time for nitrous. most places between here (iowa) and nashville are approaching $6/lb. apparently nitrous rises almost like gasoline [&:]
4.ignition can be left alone. only need to really upgrade your spark plugs to a colder set.
5. nitrous adds power, and unless you are working with the assumption that power=strain i have to object here. Yes, there is in fact a bigger risk with a bigger shot but it isnt from strain. the v6 can handle a good bit of power before falling apart, so this strain from the added power isnt going to hurt much. what IS a problem is the likelyhood of detonation. additional timing must be pulled from the engine for larger shots to avoid detonation, and detonation is the single biggest killer of nitrous cars. not misfires, not explosions, not any of the other F&F horror stories some people would have you believe. its simply running hot and burning a piston because you had too much timing or crappy fuel.
your wet/dry thinking is backwards. dry kits usually require more tuning than wet kits. yes, you blow through the maf so the maf should compensate for the nitrous by adding more fuel.but it does a crappy job, let me tell u. A wet kit has its own fuel solenoids and is fogged in after the maf. now, my personal philosophy is to tune regardless of the shot size. but if u want to chance that your maps havent been all fuggered up by ur o2's over the years you can use the fuel jets to do the tuning for you. spark plugs look lean: use a bigger fuel jet, spark plugs look rich: 1 size down. you dont have this option with a dry kit. if you arent close off the bat u need tuning. I do agree however that tuning is a must for anything over 75, even on bigger engines.
as for your cost: on my old mustang I put a kit together, ZEX wet kit with an msd window switch, WOT switch (included), and bottle heater for under 1k (at store pricing too, no ebay or anything like that here). total price after a pro dyno tune was about 1300 bucks installed and ready to use.
a charger would have cost me 3600 or so just in parts, probably close to 5 ready to hit the street. over 3k in refills is a TON. at about 60 bucks a bottle i can refill over 75 times.
quote:
ORIGINAL: northbaseball22
Anyone on here have/know anyone who has nitrous on a v6 stang? I have a couple questions...
1 - Is it safe? Yes, if tuned properly, or a safe (75 hp or less) dry shot
2 - What are the advantages of having this? Instant power at the flip of a switch
3 - How expenive is a refill and where would i get a refill? Depends on the area, but I believe it's around $4 a pound
4 - Is there anything else you need to upgrade besides spark plugs, ignition wires, and coils to accomadate nitrous? Nope there are extras, such as the WOT switch, and remote bottle opener that you'll need.
5 - Does the safety change if your running a 100 shot as opposed to a 50 or whatever? Yes, the higher the shot, the more strain on the engine, and the more tuning that's needed. 75 dry shot or less requires little to no tuning, above 75 dry requires good tuning. All wet shots require some type of tuning.
Thanks.
ORIGINAL: northbaseball22
Anyone on here have/know anyone who has nitrous on a v6 stang? I have a couple questions...
1 - Is it safe? Yes, if tuned properly, or a safe (75 hp or less) dry shot
2 - What are the advantages of having this? Instant power at the flip of a switch
3 - How expenive is a refill and where would i get a refill? Depends on the area, but I believe it's around $4 a pound
4 - Is there anything else you need to upgrade besides spark plugs, ignition wires, and coils to accomadate nitrous? Nope there are extras, such as the WOT switch, and remote bottle opener that you'll need.
5 - Does the safety change if your running a 100 shot as opposed to a 50 or whatever? Yes, the higher the shot, the more strain on the engine, and the more tuning that's needed. 75 dry shot or less requires little to no tuning, above 75 dry requires good tuning. All wet shots require some type of tuning.
Thanks.
1. i agree with half of your first answer, and the reason i disagree has more to do with another answer so ill get to that in a minute
2. no arguin there
3. i havent paid that in a good long time for nitrous. most places between here (iowa) and nashville are approaching $6/lb. apparently nitrous rises almost like gasoline [&:]
4.ignition can be left alone. only need to really upgrade your spark plugs to a colder set.
5. nitrous adds power, and unless you are working with the assumption that power=strain i have to object here. Yes, there is in fact a bigger risk with a bigger shot but it isnt from strain. the v6 can handle a good bit of power before falling apart, so this strain from the added power isnt going to hurt much. what IS a problem is the likelyhood of detonation. additional timing must be pulled from the engine for larger shots to avoid detonation, and detonation is the single biggest killer of nitrous cars. not misfires, not explosions, not any of the other F&F horror stories some people would have you believe. its simply running hot and burning a piston because you had too much timing or crappy fuel.
your wet/dry thinking is backwards. dry kits usually require more tuning than wet kits. yes, you blow through the maf so the maf should compensate for the nitrous by adding more fuel.but it does a crappy job, let me tell u. A wet kit has its own fuel solenoids and is fogged in after the maf. now, my personal philosophy is to tune regardless of the shot size. but if u want to chance that your maps havent been all fuggered up by ur o2's over the years you can use the fuel jets to do the tuning for you. spark plugs look lean: use a bigger fuel jet, spark plugs look rich: 1 size down. you dont have this option with a dry kit. if you arent close off the bat u need tuning. I do agree however that tuning is a must for anything over 75, even on bigger engines.
as for your cost: on my old mustang I put a kit together, ZEX wet kit with an msd window switch, WOT switch (included), and bottle heater for under 1k (at store pricing too, no ebay or anything like that here). total price after a pro dyno tune was about 1300 bucks installed and ready to use.
a charger would have cost me 3600 or so just in parts, probably close to 5 ready to hit the street. over 3k in refills is a TON. at about 60 bucks a bottle i can refill over 75 times.
Reverse Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,130
From: Baton Rouge, LA
RE: Nitrous
Well I'll just add that the problems with a higher shot also tend to be heat buildup, but that tends to go with the length of time it's used per run.
I JUST went to the shop friday and nitrous was $3.65 per lb, so you guys are getting screwed for $6.
I complete dry kit INCLUDING an MSD window switch, which I ALWAYS RECOMMEND, and a full bottle can be had for $600, add some good tuning time and you're looking at roughly $1000 all said and done.
And my s/c kit is ringing in at $1600, complete for the M112 conversion, not including the hood, since that's not REALLY a necessity.
BTW I am not accounting for the tuner needed for either option, since it's needed for both, and should be accounted for when ANY power adders are coming into play.
The supporting mods for any power adder should basically be complete bolt-ons, rear-end upgrade, full exhaust including lt's, better clutch or converter and of course some form of tunable programmer.
I JUST went to the shop friday and nitrous was $3.65 per lb, so you guys are getting screwed for $6.
I complete dry kit INCLUDING an MSD window switch, which I ALWAYS RECOMMEND, and a full bottle can be had for $600, add some good tuning time and you're looking at roughly $1000 all said and done.
And my s/c kit is ringing in at $1600, complete for the M112 conversion, not including the hood, since that's not REALLY a necessity.
BTW I am not accounting for the tuner needed for either option, since it's needed for both, and should be accounted for when ANY power adders are coming into play.
The supporting mods for any power adder should basically be complete bolt-ons, rear-end upgrade, full exhaust including lt's, better clutch or converter and of course some form of tunable programmer.
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