so.. i have

m90 supercharger
upgraded intercooler
zex 100 wet shot
mac long tubes
flowmasters
aluminum driveshaft
kind cobra clutch
4.10s with a tlok

just to keep in mind... NEXT WINTER im planning on dropping the engine out for a 4.2 forged setup (and more boost)..

my questions are about heads and cam.. i've looked at and considered SSM's heads and i've looked into several cam manufacturers...

but before i go and waste 2500 on something that might not make a big difference i figured i'd post on there first...

cams and heads are obviously designed to allow more fuel and oxygen to enter the cylinders with less resistance on naturally aspired engines... but as far as i've read its a whole different ballgame when you enter FI in the mix..

i've read that your not supposed to opt for a 'wild' cam for a forced induction setup (like mine)... i'm really not sure why exactly that is.. the only thing i can figure is that its because the intake is under pressure and whether it opens to .5" or .25" the same amount of gas and oxygen will get in there... IF THAT IS THE CASE: there really wouldn't be a point in getting different heads or maybe it would be better to get a set of mild heads...

can anybody shead some light?!

 

i can not help unfortunately, but what year engine do you have at the moment? i'm guessing single port if you have an m90?

 

97 singleport

 

well the M90 is kind of like a turbo as far as torque production. the positive displacement of the blower makes great torque unlike a vortech or a procharger across the rpm range.


a good cam is essential and ported heads are key. the supercoupe intake is easy to open up. the heads are where power lays along with a good ported blower case and raised outlet for the blower.

www.magnumpowers.com has great power recipies for a supercoupe setup. you will need the entire supercoupe setup on the stang, not just the M90 and a few other odds and ends. you need the intake and blower with rad and IC and brackets along with a 94/95 waterpump housing and wireing harness mods to make everything work. is it worth it. yes it is, even on stock supercoupe power and 3.45 gears with a detroittruetrac you will have mid 13 times as long as you get traction. forget the ford t-lok for the 7.5. you will destroy it. the ford t-lok is junk and originally designed for a 120hp engine. the spyder gears grenade when power is put to them. a detroit truetrac or locker will handle the extra power with no problem.

forget about the wetshot of the giggles with the blower. contact Matt at delk and give him your mods and he will spec a cam for your setup

 

well im not working on the rear end again till it explodes... in which case im swaping in a 8.8

by rad and ic what do you mean?

nobody at delk EVER freaking replies.. i've emailed them several times over the past year or so... not a single reply..

i was more looking for: if i was going to get heads from ssm.. im more then willing to get stage 3 heads.. but thats not the problem, the problem is that i want to know if (for the money) it is worth it to bother with the stage 3 heads over the stage 2 or even 1...

magnum power specs "ported heads" in their stage 3 power recipe.. but "ported heads" is a VERY generalized suggestion..

i was looking at either compcam's 44-702-9 or 44-703-9
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=836&sb=0
http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=837&sb=0

 

I'd go MP with the Super Coupe blower set up as well. The heads they sell are ported with the M90 in mind, and nothing else. Their power packs will match your set up better than the Super Six goodies will.

 

As stated, skip the giggle gas, it's hard to find somebody to properly tune the crap, and given your setup, that will make it that much harder.

Your rear end will not hold with all that stuff, plus add in the fact that it's only the back right tire that supplies the power, so the launches will look, and feel extremely odd.

 

the kit sprays its own fuel.. so im not sure what tuning your talking about..

 

OH dear,
Maybe you need to get to reading books instead of trying to build a car?

 

you just cant throw a nitrous kit on a car and run it even if it's a wet kit. you still need to have it dyno tuned to makesure it doesn't lean out. add in boost and it makes it harder to tune acrossed the rpm range.

just get a detroit truetrac or a detroit locker for the 7.5 rear and you won't have to ever worry about the rear breaking and it will be stronger than a stock 8.8 by a good margin, plus it lighter and all unsprung weight