Intermittent Problem
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,530
From:
Most likely a bad or clogged heater core. The gauge going down when revving it is normal, since the water pump pumps the coolant quicker than when just idling.
The reason you have heat when reving is because the pump is pumping the coolant faster and harder, and allowing it to flow through the clogged heater core.
Here's what you do to confirm this. Let the car warm up, then grab both heater core hoses (the ones going into the firewall), and see what the temp is. If one is hot, and one is a good deal cooler, then you're heater core is clogged with a bunch of ****.
Before replacing the heater core (which sucks ***), try this: Disconnect both hoses off the firewall fittings. Then take a garden hose, preferably with one of those trigger handles for more pressure, and put it up to either fitting. Then you're basically going to flush the heater core. If a bunch of dirt and other **** comes out the other fitting, your heater core was clogged. Keep flushing until clean water is coming out, then re connect everything (top off the coolant cause you'll have lost some taking the hoses off), and see if you have heat.
That's my best guess. A car at work came into work with everything you're describing, and it needed the heater core replaced.
The reason you have heat when reving is because the pump is pumping the coolant faster and harder, and allowing it to flow through the clogged heater core.
Here's what you do to confirm this. Let the car warm up, then grab both heater core hoses (the ones going into the firewall), and see what the temp is. If one is hot, and one is a good deal cooler, then you're heater core is clogged with a bunch of ****.
Before replacing the heater core (which sucks ***), try this: Disconnect both hoses off the firewall fittings. Then take a garden hose, preferably with one of those trigger handles for more pressure, and put it up to either fitting. Then you're basically going to flush the heater core. If a bunch of dirt and other **** comes out the other fitting, your heater core was clogged. Keep flushing until clean water is coming out, then re connect everything (top off the coolant cause you'll have lost some taking the hoses off), and see if you have heat.
That's my best guess. A car at work came into work with everything you're describing, and it needed the heater core replaced.
Last edited by JKs95stang; Jan 13, 2009 at 12:56 AM.
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,530
From:
No man, sorry, I have cleaned the heater core, same result. I have bypassed the h/c with a fitting, same thing, and i am definitely losing water so it's pretty much fuct. I kind of wanted to do the split port swap anyway, and with the car not worth much, i'll baby it for awhile and keep it. I may get a new edge or something to daily drive, they are so cheap right now in CA.
Last edited by JKs95stang; Jan 17, 2009 at 07:15 PM.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 229
reading this i will say its one of two things. either it is loosing water through a leak like a head gasket.... but first id check all your connects to see if there wet and where...... next i would def get it to a 50/50 mix of water and anitfreeze this actually can be a problem because the anti freeze not only stops the freeezing issue but it also transfers heat better than pure water while raising the boiling point. If your water is getting near 212 it will start to steam like a pot on a stove this will cause air to be in your system and cause a loss of heat and a higher temp on the gauge... Also when your changing these parts you are letting air into your system so i would try bleeding it a few times not just once cuz when you do it only once you only get the air out of the top of the system by running the car and bleeding again you can get any air that may have been trapted down in the engine block or in the heater core. If it is a head gasket leaking you should be able to check this by pulling your spark plugs, i believe.
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,530
From:
Well guys, I went ahead and put in the anti-freeze(had some i forgot about at my moms house) but no help. I am definitely smelling coolant burning off so the headgasket is definitely leaking. I have a few lines on a motor, and was wondering if there is any difference in a 1997 mustang, cougar, thunderbird. A friend has a motor with 60k on it from a 97 tbird so I was just wondering if everything is the same or would I have to swap a few things. I think the IAC is different but I'm not positive on that. Let me know guys. Thanks for all the suggestions. XD
P.S I can get a low mileage 94 motor for 300 but I'm going for a 97 motor with no head gasket issues.
P.S I can get a low mileage 94 motor for 300 but I'm going for a 97 motor with no head gasket issues.
Resident Ginger
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,624
From: Cali
well depending on how much money your working with you could get the 94, pull it apart, get a P&P job, replace the HGs while the engine is apart, put some ( oh crap whats the word) upgraded internals in it, slat a M90 on it, and there you go. But again its all about the money.
Matthew
Matthew
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,306
From: Canada
well depending on how much money your working with you could get the 94, pull it apart, get a P&P job, replace the HGs while the engine is apart, put some ( oh crap whats the word) upgraded internals in it, slat a M90 on it, and there you go. But again its all about the money.
Matthew
Matthew
Thread Starter
4th Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,530
From:
Yeah, I have looked into the m90 swap, would be cool to do, but I'd want the whole car so I have everything. I wouldn't want to piece it all together. Since money is tight right now, I may just pick up that low mileage 97 for now and keep a look out for a super coupe. I had my eyes on one awhile back but he wanted way too much for it, he thought he was sitting on gold or something, who knows. So is it just the tbirds and cougars that have the m90 that will work on a mustang?
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