I'll believe that when I see dyno sheets. That being said, solid LCA's(like I suggested) and springs in the factory location are just as strong as coilovers, i promise

The spring itself really only controls ride height, its the control arms that take the abuse and keep the car straight. Our factory LCA's suck ***. Solid LCA's and solid bushings kick ***, even on 700 crank hp cars....

 

Dyno sheets can be BS lol. How about track time slip. You keep telling me something I already know. I have no plans to use coilovers on the rear. And the watts link would be for STREET and drag. With help from Tom at ssm. this car will be in the ten's.

 

OP what are your plans to get to the 10s?

 

Turbo hopefully. Or a whole lot of nitrous. Built trans. Built rear.

 

^ and a gutted interior hopefully.

 

Eh, not necessarily gutted. Maybe just corbeaus with manual racks and a rear seat delete, thats almost 100 lbs right there. Don't get me wrong, thats an option, I wouldn't do it though. But I really wouldn't build a track only car that I have to trailer there either. Rotating mass is equally as important. Some really light drag racing rims with skinnys up front and slicks out back as opposed to 18's with dr's could help just as much.

 

Well as some of you know when I started this build it was going to be a v6 to v8 change to get to 10'sec. Now I plan to do it with the v6, and that means with whatever it takes. In my research (witch has been alot) I now know it wont be easy, But I don't do easy very well. Here's my plan so far, Remove as much weight from the front as possible. That's batt. relocate, billet everything I can. I have new K- frame, front coilovers, frame rails, sitting in the garage now. Looking for a 4.2, 2001-2004 block to do a 4.3 build. As for Trans. and rear end, still researching.
Now I may use TT or Nitrous oxide (N2O) or some kind of supercharge. or all three. (just kidding) we will just have to see. But now I'm doing the suspension upgrades. Now when I say 10's I mean 10.99999 on a good night. Why I have no clue, I just know that's what I want.
I have learned so much from you guys here on Mustang Forum. And together we will do this.

 

i believe the 3.8/4.2 block is th exact same with different heads and intake manifolds

 

Don't but a 4.2 block, just order the forged 4.2 stroker kit through ssm. Your going to need the forged internals anyway. They can shot peen the 4.2 crank for you too, which I guess makes it stronger. Also, you should do some reading on stronger head studs and one guy made custom 4 bolt mains to help eliminate crank walk and lifting heads which you can get with that much power and boost. The 4.2 from the truck has heavier different intake manifolds if I'm not mistaken. Good job on lightening the car. Rear seat delete, relocate battery, Corbeaus, tubular k-member, a-arms, coilovers up front.I believe all that is almost 200 lbs, which some people say equals .2 off your ET in the 1/4. The 4R70W is supposed to be able to handle some decent power stock. The 7.5 is the lighter rear end, but for that much power you might want to look into a built 31 spline 8.8. You can hit 10's on nitrous, meaning its been done. More do it with turbos though.

 

I was going to ask "what kind of power are you making" since most people are normally in the 350hp range before they start worrying about suspension. Even though tomJR is running 10s on his stock suspension.

I'll won't hold my breath on this 550hp though