Nitrous on our sixxers, pros and cons, whos done it, and whos doing it?

what kind of gains can you expect to see and any info/opinions are welcome.

 

I used to run an NX wet kit. Loved it for what it was. Just wasn't functional for on track use (for me). I've installed some other brands on V6 cars, but the NX set ups seem to be the nicer units.

 

I had an NX setup on my 5.0 a long time ago. Install was fairly straight forward but as with most things a little time consuming the first time. I quickly sold the kit because of one huge problem, NX wet kits require a lot of tuning to be done, and I know you don't know this, but 5.0s aren't so easy to tune and I just didn't trust the window switch. So I sold the kit and bought my heads and intake setup. Some kits are measured in HP loads, the most you can realisitically run with a window switch is around 150 hp shot, more than that you do need tuning. 75 and 100 are the safer shots to run. If you get a dry kit you can't run as much power (usually 50-100) but they are much easier to tune as they don't incorporate mixing the N2O with your fuel mixture.

So pros: Instant boost at WOT with the flip a switch, fairly light weight, fairly reliable as long as it's installed correctly and all the secondary parts are on the car.
Cons: Needs extensive tuning (wet kits, dry kits only need modest to none), need to pay for refills (gas isn't cheap), power isn't always there (sure it's flip of a switch for as long as the bottle last), cost (while most kits have a cheap initial cost the cost of all the other stuff you need to run safely adds up to near or over $2000+bottle refill which is around $50 a refill at current prices), risk of gas leaks (just like anything with plumbing there is the risk of gas leak which can severely inhibit your ability to drive).

 

why do you say it wasnt functional for track use for you? and how much did the whole setup end up costing you?

 

i thought that if i could pickup some parts used, id be around 1000 total?

and whats the most i could run on stock internals v6 100 wet shot?

i heard dry kits aren't good for the car

and what modifications do i need to do in order to make the kits work on a v6 because most say v8

 

I can't tell you how much you can safely run cause with all forms of F/I there is no true "safe" boost level. It's all guestimation and prayer. Generally the V6 essex block is good to around 300-350 bhp so yes a 100 hp shot is about it, but still no gurantee you won't throw a rod or blow a gasket.

I bought mine used too and actually I wouldn't recommend it if it was already installed. Brackets get bent and some of the wiring isn't usuable so you wind up having to make bent brackets work (cause the installer didn't do it right) and wind up having to run new electrical wires and splicing in cause the previous owner damaged or cut the wire.

Here is the difference between wet and dry.

Dry kits are shot directly into your air intake in front the MAF. It simply incorporates the dry gas in with the normal air from outside to increase air density and lower air temperatures to create the power. The only down side to dry kits is that they can run your stock fuel system lean which can burn up your pistons and piston rings under heavier shots, hense why they keep dry shots to lower hp loads.

Wet kits mix fuel (which requires taping into the fuel system) and N2O together and can be injected either in the air intake, the upper to lower plenum area, or directly into each cylinder port at the fuel injectors. These kits can make much more power because it evenly mixes the N2O and fuel however requires tuning cause as you see, the actual fuel tables themselves are now being modified with the N2O. The other downside to this setup, especially with the air intake and plenum injection kits is pooling of fuel/nitrous in the plenums (AKA upper/lower intake) causing the potential for back fire in the air intake and even potentially a fire. Direct port is the best but extremely expensive.

 

matt does road corse/auto x

I would just throw a 50 dry shot on it an call it a day because it is small enough for the MAF to compensate for it without custom dyno tuning

 

Call ColdFusionN2O, order a simple dry kit with a 10lb bottle. Don't waste money on purge. Order an MSD window controller to prevent the juice from spraying at too high of an rpm, a few members here can tell you about how expensive trying to save $100 can be. Order a tuner and be prepared to pay for a dyno tune. Don't spray any more than 50-75shot. Don't spray for more than about 10 seconds at a time, and after spraying, let the car run for a few minutes to cool off. Invest in a wideband, and learn how to read it, you won't regret it. I recommend autometer or AEM.

Just a little background on kits,
1. ALL nitrous solenoids are made at the same factory, no matter who's sticker is on them
2. ALL bottles are DOT rated, regardless of manufacturer.
3. Bottle warmers, remote openers, and purge are not necessary

I prefer Cold Fusion because they are a small company with GREAT customer service. They are located in Houston and will bend over backwards to make sure you have exactly what you want. When I was building custom kits, at a shop that was literally 5 minutes away from them, they would have special hoses built by the time I arrived after calling from the shop. They custom built a kit for me to hide in my car with 2 5lb bottles and special lines, and had it ready within an hour for me to pick up. All their bottle have gauges on them, which is a very nice little feature. Lastly, no other nitrous company will do any of those things for you, other than tell you to order the individual pieces and charge you out the *** for them.

 

why dry over wet? also what is 46/30 jets?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iNQzORkpaw

this is my goal

he listed

Zex wet kit 46/30 jets
Mac Longtubes
2.5" offroad exhaust
asp 25% udp
CAI
VMPTuning Dyno Tune
8.8 Rear end 3.73 gears
Lower control arms
Eibach prokit
WEld Prostars 26x8.5" Et Drags

 

No point in running a wet setup, just one more thing that can fail, and the stock fuel system can handle the juice.

He may be referring to the actual size of the jets. There is no "50hp" jet, they are labelled by how large the hole is in the "jet"

The only other thing I would recommend adding is a water/meth kit.