Help on making my 3.8 auto faster?
03-11-2012, 06:25 PM
#11
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 15
i traded my mercedes for it :P i would value the car at 5500$ it has 115k miles but ok i will check into that. the check engine light just came on, so i took it to autozone had her plugged in and she threw 2 codes. i cant read them too well i mean they are kinda confusing maybe one of you can help? it says on the first code Definition: Lack of o2 switches-bank 2 sensor 1. Explanation: ECM could not adjust fuel trim because of lean or rich condition. Cause: fuel pressure high/low, maf sensor dirty/defective, vacuum leak on engine, leaking fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator. Second code- Definition: Catalyst efficiency low-bank1. Explanation: The oxygen sensors monitor the catalytic converters ability to store oxygen. Probable cause: Catalytic converter defective, Engine misfire or running condition,large vacuum leak, engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide seals, piston rings. Sorry for typing so much i just wanted yall to be able to see everything.
03-11-2012, 08:59 PM
#12
$5500 is a good price for that sixxer but you do have a little work needed.
You can always get in contact with the last owner of the car through the DMV, and since you traded him your car it should be pretty easy.
He did not give you the whole story on the car.
Having the codes will help a little more too.
Being that you are getting a reading for the Cats efficiency that means that he did not turn the rear O2 sensors off and that would seem that you may not even have cats.
Adding two high flow cats and turning off the rear O2's will help you a lot, you dont have to turn off the rear O2's with the high flows but some people do just to save from having any possible headaches.
The Lack of O2 switches code seems kinda weird to me, but it could just mean that sensor is bad.
Cleaning the MAF is a must when buying any used car and changing the fuel filter is also a must.
If you get the codes to us we can cross ref them a little better.
Could you grab a coupe pics of under the car for us as best as you can tomorrow?
You can always get in contact with the last owner of the car through the DMV, and since you traded him your car it should be pretty easy.
He did not give you the whole story on the car.
Having the codes will help a little more too.
Being that you are getting a reading for the Cats efficiency that means that he did not turn the rear O2 sensors off and that would seem that you may not even have cats.
Adding two high flow cats and turning off the rear O2's will help you a lot, you dont have to turn off the rear O2's with the high flows but some people do just to save from having any possible headaches.
The Lack of O2 switches code seems kinda weird to me, but it could just mean that sensor is bad.
Cleaning the MAF is a must when buying any used car and changing the fuel filter is also a must.
If you get the codes to us we can cross ref them a little better.
Could you grab a coupe pics of under the car for us as best as you can tomorrow?
03-11-2012, 09:24 PM
#13
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 15
ok i will check into all that and i will post some pics of the underneath first thing tomorrow. ok sorry i am a noob but how do i clean the MAF and where is it at lol? and i will check into the fuel filter price how much would that run me?
03-11-2012, 11:30 PM
#14
The MAF is the plastic housing in the middle of your CAI.
To clean it you need to buy MAF cleaner from your local parts store, its about $5-8 dollars.
Do not touch the wire inside the MAF, spray the wire with the MAF cleaner in bursts, the little teardrop looking thing is your IAT, it wont hurt to spray that too so that it reads your intake air temps more accurately.
Here is a photo that sums it all up. The reason why the IAT is downstream of the MAF is because this is a 1999-2000 setup, the 1994-98's are also like this but have an aluminum MAF. The 01-04 have the IAT built into the MAF.
To clean it you need to buy MAF cleaner from your local parts store, its about $5-8 dollars.
Do not touch the wire inside the MAF, spray the wire with the MAF cleaner in bursts, the little teardrop looking thing is your IAT, it wont hurt to spray that too so that it reads your intake air temps more accurately.
Here is a photo that sums it all up. The reason why the IAT is downstream of the MAF is because this is a 1999-2000 setup, the 1994-98's are also like this but have an aluminum MAF. The 01-04 have the IAT built into the MAF.
03-11-2012, 11:32 PM
#15
Oh and a fuel filter will be anywhere from $9-20 dollars depending on brand and where you buy it. If you are going to do the work yourself you will also need a little tool for fuel rails to separate the clips that hold the fuel line to the filter.
This is about a 2 out of 5 for difficulty but if you are not ok with working on the fuel system yet you can just have any mechanic do it. Labor will probably be 1/2 hour.
This is about a 2 out of 5 for difficulty but if you are not ok with working on the fuel system yet you can just have any mechanic do it. Labor will probably be 1/2 hour.
03-12-2012, 01:22 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: ohio
Posts: 15
It seems i have two cat converters so i think thats a plus? also a quick question what is that long bar that goes from i think shock absorber to the other absorber. it goes across the top of the engine it just like a bar. they might be strut absorbers idk lol.
