V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs Technical discussions on the 3.8L and 3.9L V6 torque monsters

Replacement of my 2000 Ford Mustang 3.8L engine

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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 12:49 PM
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Default Replacement of my 2000 Ford Mustang 3.8L engine

I need to replace my engine and I need some information. First off, I am looking for a quality engine with a really good warranty. I have found three companies that meet that criteria: S&J Engines has a 7 year/100,000 miles non-prorated warranty for $1,789.00 plus core charge of $250.00; Rydell Powertrain has a "No Fault Gold Warranty" for 3 years ($150) if you get the Engine install kit ($250) and the engine is going for $1,985.00; Powertrain Products has a 4 year/1 million miles parts & labor for $2,099.00.

Which of these are better? Warranties I mean and has anyone ever heard of any of these companies. I need to know whether or not these companies are reputable.

Should I purchase the engine install kit as well? Everyone of these companies have them for $250.00. Also, How much does it cost to remove my old engine and replace it with this replacement engine. I saw on AutoMD that it will cost me $1,900.00. Is this true?
Old Jul 21, 2012 | 01:00 PM
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go to a pick n pull might be able to score a better deal on an low mile engine. no sense buying a brand new 3.8 its v6 if your gonna buy an new engine might as well be a 4.6 or 5.0 just my 2 cents
Old Jul 21, 2012 | 01:59 PM
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I appreciate that TomKat but what good does it do to to get a low mileage engine, IF I could find one and it blows up on me? I bought this mustang about a year ago and it has already blown a rod. I want something reliable that I can mod out with headers and the like. Have you heard of any of these companies and is that amount to pull and replace the engine accurate?
Old Jul 21, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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Also TomKat if I bought a 4.6 or 5.0 I believe I would have to replace the tranny and wiring as well. I am just learning this by reading the posts on this forum but it sounds expensive.
Old Jul 21, 2012 | 02:25 PM
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Personally, I'd just find a good used low mileage 3.8L out of a junk yard for $500-$600 and have someone swap it in for a couple hundred. All that extra money you save can be put into the bank if you ever need it. Even if something MAJOR goes wrong, you can drop in a couple of motors for the price of one with all that warrenty behind it.

Originally Posted by TomKat
go to a pick n pull might be able to score a better deal on an low mile engine. no sense buying a brand new 3.8 its v6 if your gonna buy an new engine might as well be a 4.6 or 5.0 just my 2 cents
A V8 swap is a waste of time. Especially the old 5.0L which makes about the same power anyway. The money invested doesn't match the power you can make for less money if that's what you're after.
Old Jul 21, 2012 | 02:42 PM
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What would you guys call a low mileage engine? I am after power. I plan on adding these mods: Bama tuner, K&N Cold air intake, Pypes True Dual Catted exhaust, BBK Shorty Headers, Electric supercharger bolt-on kit (iffy on this), GF Performance chip (iffy on this) and a Eibach coil over suspension kit.
Old Jul 21, 2012 | 06:59 PM
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I'd skip the 3.8 and find a 4.2 out of an F-150, then swap the intake from a 3.8L Windstar GL (I prefer the composite to the aluminium)

As for a "low milage" motor, in the year range you'll be looking in I'd say 50k would qualify as a good find. These motors will last for all but ever, my '96 has well over 300k.

Now, speaking to your possible "mod list"
- CAI is mostly for aesthetics, get the same effect ditching the silencer and adding a good drop in filter.

- Dual exhaust is a must for power. Only go with "shorties" if you can get a set for all but free (e.g. those off of '94-'98's) Otherwise spend your money right and get LT's.

- A handheld tuner (SCT) is definitely a good move. Even a canned tune is better than no tune at all. Obviously a dyno tune is the best option.

- Electric "Superchargers", and I use the term loosely when referring to these things, are a total waste of money. In fact their general inability to push air even as fast as the intake would normally "pull" it makes them simply an impedance that will only cost you power as opposed to making more. Save your money.

- Coil-overs are a doable option, however I've heard (and that's all this is, might be wrong) that the trade off of handling improvement vs ride comfort can be a bit much for a DD.



So, if you're looking for power, IMHO it's:

4.2L + LT's + Dual Exhaust + Tune ...

You can also always get your heads and lower intake P&P as well, do a cam swap, bore to 4.3L, bump compression, add boost, etc, etc ...


P.S. Power does you no good if you can't put it down, so a LSD, SFC's, and some stickier tires should always be in mind also.

Last edited by crysalis_01; Jul 21, 2012 at 07:02 PM.
Old Jul 22, 2012 | 05:13 AM
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Thank you crysalis_01. What year 4.2 is compatible? A 2000 F-150? Also the intake, what year? The other thing is I am wondering if that is going to include me changing the wiring as well, I am thinking probably yes. I also was looking and I am wondering what kind of longtube headers will be compatible with the 4.2. What would you suggest?
Old Jul 22, 2012 | 05:59 AM
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Agree with the 4.2 swap!

Useful link: http://www.v6power.net/vb/showthread.php?t=8310

I think it was 97-04 F-150s that came with the 4.2L, don't qoute me on that though, I am not 100% sure about if it were 2002 or 2004.
Old Jul 22, 2012 | 04:44 PM
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Thank you MMR. Do I have to change the wiring for the 4.2 swap? What kind of HP will that produce? Do I mod it the same with LTs and exhaust?



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