Performance MOD Planning
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 59
From: Florida
Performance MOD Planning
Well I have a 94. Which according to what I've read is at about 145hp, probably less at the wheel.
I'd like to get to 200 or 220ish without power adder. (I'll get to this later).
I'm thinking the least expensive way to do this would be a split port conversion and then the bolt-ons + tune. (CAI, UDP, Intake Spacer, etc).
Is this right?
I'd like to get to 200 or 220ish without power adder. (I'll get to this later).
I'm thinking the least expensive way to do this would be a split port conversion and then the bolt-ons + tune. (CAI, UDP, Intake Spacer, etc).
Is this right?
The Godfather
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 15,480
From: Temple, Texas
Well I have a 94. Which according to what I've read is at about 145hp, probably less at the wheel.
I'd like to get to 200 or 220ish without power adder. (I'll get to this later).
I'm thinking the least expensive way to do this would be a split port conversion and then the bolt-ons + tune. (CAI, UDP, Intake Spacer, etc).
Is this right?
I'd like to get to 200 or 220ish without power adder. (I'll get to this later).
I'm thinking the least expensive way to do this would be a split port conversion and then the bolt-ons + tune. (CAI, UDP, Intake Spacer, etc).
Is this right?
In short, FI will be by far the cheapest route. Power pack split ports (heads/cam/intake) cars only yield 200-220 depending on the cam. These kits will run around $2500 plus labor or about 1-2 days of work to do the swap.
A super charger on your single port will put you near where you want to be. With a split port swap would put you a little above that.
Main thing is to focus on mods that actually improve performance. Dyno numbers are often irrelevant as they will vary from dyno to dyno and aren't a given indicator of the cars performance. Example, the Shelby GT500 makes as much power as a 2012 Lambo, yet the lambo is around 1 second faster in the 1/4 mile and can run circles around the Shelby at the track. Granted I'm comparing a $250,000 car to a $60,000 car, but the point applies. Dyno numbers aren't everything.
So with all that said, think about what you want out of the car and go from there. If this is a car you don't see owning more than 5 years, then don't do much. You'll never get any money back out of the car. If it's something you're gonna own a long time then focus on things that will actually improve performance.
* Split port swap is on the right track, will yield 3/4 to 1 second better 1/4 mile times
* Larger brakes, will drastically improve stopping power and reliability
* Lower the car and add in lower car arms, strut tower brace, and lower sway bars, will moderately improve handling and response around corners
* 8.8" rear end with aftermarket gears, much stronger than stock, do at the same time as the brakes, and will give much better traction and control as well as improve 1/4 mile times by around 1/3 to 1/2 a second.
* Supercharger, this will be the best bang for the buck mod, will allow the car to maintain it's stock signature but with instant power when you need it. Will yield 1-2 second better 1/4 mile times (boost levels pending).
Thread Starter
1st Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 59
From: Florida
200-220 rwhp will not happen with bolt ons with either setup. Split port swap will put you at around 160 rwhp, full bolt on will only push you up to 170-180 rwhp depending on the dyno.
In short, FI will be by far the cheapest route. Power pack split ports (heads/cam/intake) cars only yield 200-220 depending on the cam. These kits will run around $2500 plus labor or about 1-2 days of work to do the swap.
A super charger on your single port will put you near where you want to be. With a split port swap would put you a little above that.
Main thing is to focus on mods that actually improve performance. Dyno numbers are often irrelevant as they will vary from dyno to dyno and aren't a given indicator of the cars performance. Example, the Shelby GT500 makes as much power as a 2012 Lambo, yet the lambo is around 1 second faster in the 1/4 mile and can run circles around the Shelby at the track. Granted I'm comparing a $250,000 car to a $60,000 car, but the point applies. Dyno numbers aren't everything.
So with all that said, think about what you want out of the car and go from there. If this is a car you don't see owning more than 5 years, then don't do much. You'll never get any money back out of the car. If it's something you're gonna own a long time then focus on things that will actually improve performance.
* Split port swap is on the right track, will yield 3/4 to 1 second better 1/4 mile times
* Larger brakes, will drastically improve stopping power and reliability
* Lower the car and add in lower car arms, strut tower brace, and lower sway bars, will moderately improve handling and response around corners
* 8.8" rear end with aftermarket gears, much stronger than stock, do at the same time as the brakes, and will give much better traction and control as well as improve 1/4 mile times by around 1/3 to 1/2 a second.
* Supercharger, this will be the best bang for the buck mod, will allow the car to maintain it's stock signature but with instant power when you need it. Will yield 1-2 second better 1/4 mile times (boost levels pending).
In short, FI will be by far the cheapest route. Power pack split ports (heads/cam/intake) cars only yield 200-220 depending on the cam. These kits will run around $2500 plus labor or about 1-2 days of work to do the swap.
A super charger on your single port will put you near where you want to be. With a split port swap would put you a little above that.
Main thing is to focus on mods that actually improve performance. Dyno numbers are often irrelevant as they will vary from dyno to dyno and aren't a given indicator of the cars performance. Example, the Shelby GT500 makes as much power as a 2012 Lambo, yet the lambo is around 1 second faster in the 1/4 mile and can run circles around the Shelby at the track. Granted I'm comparing a $250,000 car to a $60,000 car, but the point applies. Dyno numbers aren't everything.
So with all that said, think about what you want out of the car and go from there. If this is a car you don't see owning more than 5 years, then don't do much. You'll never get any money back out of the car. If it's something you're gonna own a long time then focus on things that will actually improve performance.
* Split port swap is on the right track, will yield 3/4 to 1 second better 1/4 mile times
* Larger brakes, will drastically improve stopping power and reliability
* Lower the car and add in lower car arms, strut tower brace, and lower sway bars, will moderately improve handling and response around corners
* 8.8" rear end with aftermarket gears, much stronger than stock, do at the same time as the brakes, and will give much better traction and control as well as improve 1/4 mile times by around 1/3 to 1/2 a second.
* Supercharger, this will be the best bang for the buck mod, will allow the car to maintain it's stock signature but with instant power when you need it. Will yield 1-2 second better 1/4 mile times (boost levels pending).
I was measuring at the flywheel, so your numbers look about to what I was expecting.
I'd like to make the improvements gradual because this car is more about the mechanical experience as a hobbyist than it is about taking it to the track.
so I'm looking at about $3000 for Splitportswap/SSM Powerpack right?
then and/or about another 3-4k for the SC if I go with a procharger. M112 will require a split port swap and m90 won't put me to where I want to be or will top me off too quickly.
Actually doing some research I think an SC will bump to to my goals. I'm not looking for much more than 13s. Opinion?
The Godfather
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 15,480
From: Temple, Texas
Keep in mind the M90 requires a lot of secondary work. In short you are better getting a used supercoup motor and doing a motor swap and customizing the few minor things to make it fit than trying to find all the other parts needed.
Also keep in mind a split port swap isn't a direct swap either. It's easier than the M90, but will also require more than just the heads and intake.
A centifugal supercharger would work better for you and your application, not to mention will be much cheaper than the M112 or M90 route.
Also keep in mind a split port swap isn't a direct swap either. It's easier than the M90, but will also require more than just the heads and intake.
A centifugal supercharger would work better for you and your application, not to mention will be much cheaper than the M112 or M90 route.
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