I have a 2000 Mustang, 3.8L, Automatic, Stock no upgrades or mods. While driving the car after the first 15 minutes it will start stalling at any RPM doesn't matter, and at variable speeds (35moh-70mph). It will do this to the point it will not accelerate and will slow down to a stop and sometimes kill the engine. If I pull over turn the car off and Immediately turn the car back on I can hammer the gas and off I go for about another 5 minutes. PARTS CHANGED ALREADY: Fuel Filter, MAF sensor, TPS Sensor, Air Filter, Spark Plug, Oil, o2 Sensors. I checked theres no vacuum leaks my intake system is clean and clear of debris. And I took apart the Idle Air Control valve and clean it as well (didnt adjust it or anything) My gas hand doesn't work, and my low fuel light stays on but highly doubt the fuel pump is the problem. Theres no check engine lights or codes, hok the OBD 2 scanner or whatever to it and the PCM is reading the sensors fine. Haven't checked the fuel injectors or to see if the sspark plugs were cheap and went bad again. If anyone has had this issue and can point me the right direction I would appreciate it, this problem has me raging at my car! The mechanics are as confused as I am why shutting the car off and turning it on would cause it to run fine for a minute and baffled why there wouldnt be a code showing this issue.

 

the lack of codes is odd. Things to check: Plugged up vent on carbon cannister, full functioning of dual air intake runner (electric motor driving two bell cranks at the rear lower portion of the air intake against the dash panel-- doggone difficult place to get to. try to override the bell crank, GENTLY, see if it resets orientation.) and possible Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system malfunction. Also how is the engine cooling system? Is the double seal on the radiator cap working correctly (the small dime shaped seal on the bottom of the cap should be slightly tight, not loose hanging free..)

let us know what you find. Good luck with it..
zip.

 

when was the last time the fuel filter was changed ?

 

The reason that the car runs for 15 mins when cold is because what ever is failing is heating up. Then it fails .
Turning the car off and strting it may get you going but what ever is causing the problem is already hot so it doesn't take as long to fail.

Suspects are ignition module, fuel pump. coil pack.

you need to check fuel pressure cold and if you can keep a gauge on it while driving it watch the fuel pressure as you drive. If it suddenly starts to go up and down all over the place right before stalling you have your culprit.

coil pack can be checked with an ohm meter. Using the steps listed on the link here. Note you do not always get a cel for a bad coil. It may just get hot and suddenly fail.

http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_...ck_tests_1.php

Pretty sure they can test the ignition module at autozone or someplace like that, how ever the test needs to be done at the time of failure, due to the nature of heat related resistance, and the fact that once it cools down it may test normal.
and you don't even want to know what one of those costs.

 

Ditto on Dawson's suspects. Coil pack was what immediately came to my mind. But fuel pumps can go like that too without throwing a code. Especially if it is the mechanical side of the pump wearing out (internals) you only get check engine lights from an electric issue or funny ready, so the light will not always come on if there's a problem. People rely to hard on the light to tell them all there problems.