Anybody know if the zex gt kit #82034 would work on a v6? thanks-

 

Why don't you just get the V6 one? @ Americanmuscle

 

I found a good deal on a complete used setup but its the gt model. If it works on the v6 though, I'd save a lot of money.

 

Go for it, the kits are the same except for the jets that are included. The V8 can handle more nitrous so you'll get some bigger jets then you need. Just compare the two instruction sheets& parts list to see what jets to use, or buy if you want a smaller shot. The rule is over a 100 shot on the 6 and you must have it dyno tuned to keep from breaking it. 125 is pretty much max unless you just want to run it until something fails.

 

Aight sick sounds good, i was thinking the jets were the difference between the sets but just wanted to make sure. Thanks alot!

Jim- what kind of set up are you running? I was thinking I'd go blow off valve, bottle heater, and window switch in addition to the base zex kit. Did you set up yours to spray at like 2500rpm?

 

2500 is too low, 3500 is the most commonly recommended. I've sprayed as low as 2800 but generally like spray at 3k. However, at that rpm you are going to have to work harder to prevent wheel spin and if you bolt on sticky tires your going break the rear - took me two passes on drag radials to shatter the spider gears and a whole season on the street tires to break a tooth on a the spider gear.
Blown down tube is needed for the track, heater and a pressure gauge are musts as well as a fuel pressure safety switch. I like the window switch and some consider it mandatory on a manual.

 

Man so if ur spraying at 3500 u would be like 80 feet out or so? Yeah breaking the rear end would be no fun for sure haha were you on a pretty well prepped track when you did that? And have you tryed sparaying 75 shot to prevent that?

 

I haven't replaced the tlock spider gears since I knew I would only break it again, my plan is to replace with an 8.8 w/ 3.73 so I'm still on the open rear with the 100 shot now @ 3500. Haven't tried going to the track with this set up though. Need to sell the 3.73's I have for the 7.5 to help out with the tab.
Track prep was probably average and I was still set at 3000. The M/T's were heated up nicely and I dropped the clutch around 3500 so as soon as I went WOT it wheel hopped and then went bang. later on i remembered that this was a predictable outcome on the 7.5 and should not have been tried

 

Wow now I'm second guessing myself about skipping the 8.8 for the tlok route. Guess I'll see how it goes...good thing I have a few trailers just in case

 

I should add that my clutch started slipping after a summer of hard shifting. With the new performance clutch the street tires were an issue on the 1-2 & 2-3 shifts. The DR's were the traction fix but that exposed 7.5 as the next weak link. If you stay on street tires and don't plan on banging the the gears and take it a little easier over all the 7.5 should hold up for a while. A trailer is nice, I was 100mi from home which sucked:-(