suspension is riding crappy! caster/camber?
10-27-2009, 11:26 AM
#11
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ya id look into getting some better shocks, gunna cost you though....then the caster/camber plates too, sucks you are broke right now i know the feeling when things start breaking and you dont have the money to fix them
10-27-2009, 04:35 PM
#12
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Location: Houston, TX
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[FONT="Verdana"]I have my alignment sheet scanned onto a PDF file, but I cannot attach it because it exceeds the size, can I email it to someone and them attach it?
I will try that technique to measure the toe of my car when I get home, hopefully it will be daylight but I doubt it (get home at 7pm
) . Maybe once you look at my alignment sheet you can tell me what problems you think. I really appreciate all the responses I am receiving. I unfortunately am never in central texas, wish you were in Houston though lol. How long are shocks suppose to last on a car with dropped springs? 1.5” and 20k miles might have killed my shocks, but that would make the ride bouncy which I can tolerate, but I cannot stand my wheel being off and car pulling right. If i get the plates, seems like JM are the best bang for the buck compared to all others though.
I will try that technique to measure the toe of my car when I get home, hopefully it will be daylight but I doubt it (get home at 7pm
) . Maybe once you look at my alignment sheet you can tell me what problems you think. I really appreciate all the responses I am receiving. I unfortunately am never in central texas, wish you were in Houston though lol. How long are shocks suppose to last on a car with dropped springs? 1.5” and 20k miles might have killed my shocks, but that would make the ride bouncy which I can tolerate, but I cannot stand my wheel being off and car pulling right. If i get the plates, seems like JM are the best bang for the buck compared to all others though.
10-27-2009, 05:12 PM
#13
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Location: Germantown, TN
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J&M makes some affordable plates that allow 1.8 degrees of adjustment. http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=64
I run steeda hd plates that allow 1 degree and with them fully pulled out still have a bit of negative camber with 1.2'' drop steeda comp springs. It's just the amount I want for minimum tire wear and maximum handling though so not a problem to me.
With the pro-kit, steeda hd plates won't allow enough range but the J&M's will. That will solve your camber problem but the vibration and other issues sound like toe. Take a tape measure and measure the leading edges and following edges of your front tires near the ground using a groove in the tire as the measurement point. The leading and following edges should be near the same measurement. If not, your toe is off and that can cause the problems your mentioning.
I run steeda hd plates that allow 1 degree and with them fully pulled out still have a bit of negative camber with 1.2'' drop steeda comp springs. It's just the amount I want for minimum tire wear and maximum handling though so not a problem to me.
With the pro-kit, steeda hd plates won't allow enough range but the J&M's will. That will solve your camber problem but the vibration and other issues sound like toe. Take a tape measure and measure the leading edges and following edges of your front tires near the ground using a groove in the tire as the measurement point. The leading and following edges should be near the same measurement. If not, your toe is off and that can cause the problems your mentioning.
It also sounds that you could benefit from a set of good struts like tokico d-specs. While not cheap, a good Caster/Camber plate & some good struts/shocks will solve ALL of your ride problems. Of course followed by a good alignment...good luck!
10-27-2009, 08:10 PM
#15
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I have the eibach pro-kit & the car rides on 20's. I also have the Steeda HD upper plates & have had no problems. I installed the springs & Steeda did the plates & alignment. I recommend the Steeda HD plates or the J&M. I am NOT a sold on the bolts....I had them & (imo) they sucked. In the case of the bolts, you truly get what you pay for.
It also sounds that you could benefit from a set of good struts like tokico d-specs. While not cheap, a good Caster/Camber plate & some good struts/shocks will solve ALL of your ride problems. Of course followed by a good alignment...good luck!
It also sounds that you could benefit from a set of good struts like tokico d-specs. While not cheap, a good Caster/Camber plate & some good struts/shocks will solve ALL of your ride problems. Of course followed by a good alignment...good luck!
crap sucks
10-27-2009, 08:18 PM
#16
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Location: TX
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On a stock S197 only camber and toe are adjustable. Caster will require plates which allow caster adjustment ala MM plates. S197's have a lot of caster from the factory. These guys don't know what they're talking about. You really need to bring the car to someone familiar with the S197 suspension before spending another dollar. You're in Houston, there are many, many shops there that can help you.
Last edited by Rubrignitz; 10-27-2009 at 08:21 PM.
10-27-2009, 08:28 PM
#17
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Wish I could recommend someone. I wouldn't purchase camber plates, dampers or do anything else before locating a good shop that will give you an honest assessment of the problem. It won't cost much if you find the right shop and you'll know where you stand.
10-27-2009, 09:03 PM
#18
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WHOA!!! I hope those idiots didn't do this!! unbelievable...they would've had to disable the airbag and remove the wheel but scary to even think an alignment shop would do this to get you out of there...
With airbag-equipped Mustangs, this is a rare thing; with earlier non-airbag cars, it happens when a lazy alignment technician decides to move the steering wheel on the shaft rather than center it using the tie-rod-end adjustments.
With airbag-equipped Mustangs, this is a rare thing; with earlier non-airbag cars, it happens when a lazy alignment technician decides to move the steering wheel on the shaft rather than center it using the tie-rod-end adjustments.
Last edited by Rubrignitz; 10-27-2009 at 09:18 PM.
10-27-2009, 09:54 PM
#19
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Location: Central Texas
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Those alignment specs are definitely off on the right wheel.
-1.5 camber is definitely on the outer limit, and will still cause some wear. More than that and you have issues
Sounds like the camber bolt on that wheel needs major adjustment.
But if the right shock is blown, too, that will be a problem!!!
+1 to being able to check stuff at home. I've checked/ adjusted my camber to be well within spec, doing it at home on a level surface (reminds me, need to still check toe!).
-1.5 camber is definitely on the outer limit, and will still cause some wear. More than that and you have issues
Sounds like the camber bolt on that wheel needs major adjustment.
But if the right shock is blown, too, that will be a problem!!!
+1 to being able to check stuff at home. I've checked/ adjusted my camber to be well within spec, doing it at home on a level surface (reminds me, need to still check toe!).
10-27-2009, 11:01 PM
#20
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Location: Houston, TX
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WHOA!!! I hope those idiots didn't do this!! unbelievable...they would've had to disable the airbag and remove the wheel but scary to even think an alignment shop would do this to get you out of there...
huh? What are you referring to?
With airbag-equipped Mustangs, this is a rare thing; with earlier non-airbag cars, it happens when a lazy alignment technician decides to move the steering wheel on the shaft rather than center it using the tie-rod-end adjustments.
huh? What are you referring to?
With airbag-equipped Mustangs, this is a rare thing; with earlier non-airbag cars, it happens when a lazy alignment technician decides to move the steering wheel on the shaft rather than center it using the tie-rod-end adjustments.
Those alignment specs are definitely off on the right wheel.
-1.5 camber is definitely on the outer limit, and will still cause some wear. More than that and you have issues
Sounds like the camber bolt on that wheel needs major adjustment.
But if the right shock is blown, too, that will be a problem!!!
+1 to being able to check stuff at home. I've checked/ adjusted my camber to be well within spec, doing it at home on a level surface (reminds me, need to still check toe!).
-1.5 camber is definitely on the outer limit, and will still cause some wear. More than that and you have issues
Sounds like the camber bolt on that wheel needs major adjustment.
But if the right shock is blown, too, that will be a problem!!!
+1 to being able to check stuff at home. I've checked/ adjusted my camber to be well within spec, doing it at home on a level surface (reminds me, need to still check toe!).
Yeah i really dont want more wear on the tires, they really cant handle it. the closer to 0 the less outer wear? I wish i could align all this myself!! im not that good with suspension though lol.
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