6+6 Stang

One other side note, since you have more power with V8 Lugging or laboring in 5th with a 8 is more noticeable, the V6 will most likely not lug much in 5th as it seems to need to work a little harder, like my 2007 Corolla 4 banger, reved higher in 5th when over 55, IMO, and my neighbor is mad now cause he got the V6 to save gas, he wanted what I had, mustang with that look but a 6 for better mileage, got a automatic and I'm getting same if not better than him, now the GT cost more but if you want the muscle car look, get the V8,My dealer that sold me my Caddy, dropped price of new Challenger from 45,000 to 28,000 and I still chose the Stang for the MPG's and power . Found a Chevron, will run a tank see how does, hmmm says 40 miles to Empty, 25 miles to the Chevron station, I have run as a test with a 5 Gal. can in car to 0 miles left, safely without ruining the fuel pump, you can go another 20 easy, I have found when says 50 miles to go, out out 16.xx gals. it will only take about 12 to 13 max, so there is 3 Gals hiding somewhere.
And take it from a guy who thought JLT CAI was going to be a big improvement, well Ford got the new CAI right, my tuner, who does all the performance cars here and actually only Stangs at Fastlane Motorsports, was only able to get a little more out of the JLT, but it looks better $400, so if you want to save a little get almost same performance (2 to 3 HP less), get a K&N filter in the stock box and a tune, invest in a Aluminum Driveshaft, I hear good things about them,they weigh like 16 lbs compared to a stock 38+ Lbs and one peice, no joint in middle. if want to save a little fuel, do a 87 tune, if not concerned do a 91 or 93, you will see difference.

Shane Olguin

I filled my car up for the first time last night. With 40 miles to empty showing on the information thing, it took approximately 12.4 gallons, and that's with 2 automatic shutoffs.

Nuke

Depending on what your previous ride was, yes, the Stang can be quick.

The '10 has a stock tune that's been upgraded compared to the 05-09's to give you the additional 15 CRANK HP. Even on the '10, a CAI & custom tune from Brenspeed (or Bama or VMP or Tillman...) will still provide you roughly another 10-15 or so RWHP. Of course, after you get used to THAT, you'll be looking at cams and gears and UDP's and 1 piece aluminum DS and N2 and LT's and O/R X and a host of suspension stuff... and... and... after you get tired of THAT you'll be looking at blowers and TB's and COPS and...

6+6 Stang

Well no chevron where google said around cornor from my house ended up a dead end filled up BP, if not what i expect stickin with shell 87

7up

Appreciate the explanation. The WOT results in decreased torque that leads to crappy MPG (i.e., here ya go engine, let me feed you some fuel -- only to have you make the least of it.)

Guess I never realized it before because I never paid attention to what MPG I get. I still don't, but it's just a matter of interest out of owning a new vehicle.

Duh

Jeez. I feel like such a noob sometimes, and I've been driving for eons.

Could've saved some bucks in the long term had I altered my driving habits. But this is cool; I'll downshift more often than usual -- that's always fun

itsokimapilot

Well my last ride was an EZ-GO (yes, really). I was overseas and wasn't allowed to own a car. I was issued an EZ-GO to get around post. I was pushing about 16FWHP.

What does the aluminum DS do for performance? Is it just easier to turn because it's lighter? Is it a good return on investment? Or is it better to do the standard tune and CAI?

FastDEW

Where you learn this the most is towing a trailer. When you are towing you notice very quickly how the engine responds to gears and throttle. Leave it in too high a gear and you not only will use more fuel, you may over heat the engine.

When I was racing in SCCA a long time ago, I would tow my Mustang to the track in an enclosed trailer. Given what the weekend cost to run with fuel, tires, entry fees, etc; we learned really quickly how to get the most MPG from a big block crew cab while towing to the track. Less fuel in the tow vehicle meant more fuel we could buy for the Mustang!!!

6+6 Stang

The aluminum DS I read say 14 - 16 more rwhp, quiter, quicker response, one piece not split like stock, better mpg's, $500 and about 200 labor, if get that much more out of it without going into motor I guess might be worth over long run, but there is thread out here somewhere I was looking at where guy detailed out how to remove and install and looks pretty simple except where you need crows foot type tool to torque at end , but seems simple. here found link...

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...ll-w-pics.html

def67

Totally new to this tuning thing,
couple questions, What exactly is a CAI? and how much.
Any other cheep HP upgrades? I would NOT be doing them myself but my brother is a mechanic that will do stuff for enough beer from me so anything cheep is wht i want. not that I cant afford too much but the wife was hard enough to convince too spend 40000 on my baby so there is a limit.

I'll drive her stock for the first while but I figer 20-30 more horse and look out SS camaro. LOL

6+6 Stang

CAI = COLD AIR INTAKE, the 2010 actually is a CAI, pre-2010 was more of what they called a ram air induction and putting a CAI on a '09 and earlier would show more improvement, as I learned, I paid 400 for a JLT Carbon Fiber CAI, plus $500 for a XCAL3 handheld tuner and had a live in person Tune done, the stock CAI is only about 2 HP less difference, but the JLT as you can barely see in my sig looks neater. I'm thinking my next upgrade for better performance will be the Shaftmasters Aluminum Drive shaft, stock Shaft almost 40 lbs, and looks like a 2 piece shaft, Shaftmasters weighs 16 lbs, one piece. everyone raves it make huge changes, so we'll see..