Car isn't making the power it should (Could this be why?)
10-07-2011, 03:51 AM
#21
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Overland Park, Kansas
Posts: 536
I am not sure what the Intake air temp sensor looks like or where I would find it? I guess in the intake but I don't think I saw it when I removed the intake to clean the maf/air filter/throttle body
I am not sure how much the manifold actually helps if at all because from what I've read it doesn't really increase power til over 6000 rpm and maybe even lowers it elsewhere. I only got it because I had a CEL regarding the IMRCs being stuck open... So figured why not instead of buying imrc deletes.
Stealth, what's the elevation there? Track is at 800 ft here though the weather can push the DA pretty high
I am not sure how much the manifold actually helps if at all because from what I've read it doesn't really increase power til over 6000 rpm and maybe even lowers it elsewhere. I only got it because I had a CEL regarding the IMRCs being stuck open... So figured why not instead of buying imrc deletes.
Stealth, what's the elevation there? Track is at 800 ft here though the weather can push the DA pretty high
Last edited by gburke1; 10-07-2011 at 04:02 AM.
10-07-2011, 08:49 AM
#22
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: AR
Posts: 38
On my car the air temp sensor is underneath the intake manifold. It is on the second plenum on the passenger side. I don't know if yours would be tapped there or not though.
If they didn't relocate your sensor it would still be part of the MAF.
If they didn't relocate your sensor it would still be part of the MAF.
10-07-2011, 11:18 AM
#23
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 960
umm.. wtf are those wires doing in the engine bay?!
I have did the install/removal about 5x total, and I have NEVER had to mess with any lines like you described on your car.
Check it out:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...f-again-2.html
I trap about 111mph in mine, even though my sig states 450whp, it's more like 420whp after a few runs.. give or take, especially with our crap 90 octane gas. I do have 4.10s and MT ET Streets and they
help PLENTY!
I run 12.5@110 pretty consistent, with 2.0 (crap!) 60 fts. I am happy knowing that with improvment, it'll be a 12.0 flat or better. If you have the 3.31s.. swap them out asap! They suck! Ditto on the stock torque converter too!
It's a vacuum based bypass set up, so you may want to check all your vacuum lines going from the bypass valves and make sure they aren't pinched or kinked. Where is your IAT sensor located?? I see you have the FRPP intake manifold.. they set up your KB BAP kinda weird, maybe they didn't even relocate the IAT sensor lol
I have did the install/removal about 5x total, and I have NEVER had to mess with any lines like you described on your car.
Check it out:
https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...f-again-2.html
I trap about 111mph in mine, even though my sig states 450whp, it's more like 420whp after a few runs.. give or take, especially with our crap 90 octane gas. I do have 4.10s and MT ET Streets and they
help PLENTY!
I run 12.5@110 pretty consistent, with 2.0 (crap!) 60 fts. I am happy knowing that with improvment, it'll be a 12.0 flat or better. If you have the 3.31s.. swap them out asap! They suck! Ditto on the stock torque converter too!
It's a vacuum based bypass set up, so you may want to check all your vacuum lines going from the bypass valves and make sure they aren't pinched or kinked. Where is your IAT sensor located?? I see you have the FRPP intake manifold.. they set up your KB BAP kinda weird, maybe they didn't even relocate the IAT sensor lol
Comparing hp only figures to a GT500 is only half the story. They make a chunk more torque than our centrifugal equipped GTs.
10-07-2011, 03:23 PM
#25
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Overland Park, Kansas
Posts: 536
Okay so I think I might have found the issue...
I pulled the spark plug on cylinder 3 (chose this cylinder because I had been getting a misfire code on it a while back, til I replaced the COP)
The gap on the plug appears to be somewhere between .025 and .030 which I think is too small. When I tried to put the .030 wire through when measuring the gap, it would not go through, (it might if I force it... but I don't think you should have to force it) so I am thinking the gap is less than .030.
Hoping that the plugs can be put back to the proper gap or House of Boost will be able to get me some new plugs... (assuming I am measuring correctly and not an idiot lol) I can see how it would be easy to make the gap smaller but harder to widen the gap back out since they appear to be pretty fragile.
Everyone with SCs seem to be running .030, .032 or .035 with .032 seeming the most common
This could be the reason I am having issues with the car starting. If I let the car warm up and then turn it off and try to start it, sometimes it will start normally but other times it will not want to turn over and I'll have to give it a few tries... this could also be the reason the car is bogging at low rpms after a cold start.
Apparently having the plugs gapped too small can hurt fuel mileage as well as power. Attached is a pic of the plug I pulled which was installed about Sept 8th.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
edit: Think I am going to go with a .032 gap based on this thread (https://mustangforums.com/forum/gt-s...top-end-2.html)
I pulled the spark plug on cylinder 3 (chose this cylinder because I had been getting a misfire code on it a while back, til I replaced the COP)
The gap on the plug appears to be somewhere between .025 and .030 which I think is too small. When I tried to put the .030 wire through when measuring the gap, it would not go through, (it might if I force it... but I don't think you should have to force it) so I am thinking the gap is less than .030.
Hoping that the plugs can be put back to the proper gap or House of Boost will be able to get me some new plugs... (assuming I am measuring correctly and not an idiot lol) I can see how it would be easy to make the gap smaller but harder to widen the gap back out since they appear to be pretty fragile.
Everyone with SCs seem to be running .030, .032 or .035 with .032 seeming the most common
This could be the reason I am having issues with the car starting. If I let the car warm up and then turn it off and try to start it, sometimes it will start normally but other times it will not want to turn over and I'll have to give it a few tries... this could also be the reason the car is bogging at low rpms after a cold start.
Apparently having the plugs gapped too small can hurt fuel mileage as well as power. Attached is a pic of the plug I pulled which was installed about Sept 8th.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
edit: Think I am going to go with a .032 gap based on this thread (https://mustangforums.com/forum/gt-s...top-end-2.html)
Last edited by gburke1; 10-07-2011 at 03:58 PM.
10-07-2011, 09:03 PM
#26
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: PR
Posts: 329
Don't be swayed by track numbers if your car has an auto trans. All those N/A bolt-on 12's you see around are mostly on manual trans cars with able-footed drivers. Most performance part benchmarks, and magazine articles post their track times on manual cars as well.
To get an A/T car to run really good at the track, it has to be TUNED for the track. But that tune would suck at the street with the converter locking up weirdly, needlessly hard shifts. and the like. I bet your 4th gear sounds like it's slipping, right? Almost like it's two gears in one.
I don't think the spark plug is the only cause for the "low" numbers you have. It's probably the transmission.
To get an A/T car to run really good at the track, it has to be TUNED for the track. But that tune would suck at the street with the converter locking up weirdly, needlessly hard shifts. and the like. I bet your 4th gear sounds like it's slipping, right? Almost like it's two gears in one.
I don't think the spark plug is the only cause for the "low" numbers you have. It's probably the transmission.
10-07-2011, 09:58 PM
#27
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: North Pole
Posts: 6,716
why in the world are you running the stock plugs? and the crappy two piece design at that lol you're lucky you didn't break it off in the cylinder head on removal 
0.032 is a good place to start, I have mine gapped at that but they are Brisk racing one step colder plugs for supercharged applications. The electrode has a deeper well around it, so the plugs hold less heat than standard plugs...
Dude, if you had a code for the crap motion plates being stuck, you could have just got the delete plates for $120 and been done with it. They flow real well with my V3.
0.032 is a good place to start, I have mine gapped at that but they are Brisk racing one step colder plugs for supercharged applications. The electrode has a deeper well around it, so the plugs hold less heat than standard plugs...
Dude, if you had a code for the crap motion plates being stuck, you could have just got the delete plates for $120 and been done with it. They flow real well with my V3.
10-07-2011, 10:00 PM
#28
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: North Pole
Posts: 6,716
Don't be swayed by track numbers if your car has an auto trans. All those N/A bolt-on 12's you see around are mostly on manual trans cars with able-footed drivers. Most performance part benchmarks, and magazine articles post their track times on manual cars as well.
To get an A/T car to run really good at the track, it has to be TUNED for the track. But that tune would suck at the street with the converter locking up weirdly, needlessly hard shifts. and the like. I bet your 4th gear sounds like it's slipping, right? Almost like it's two gears in one.
I don't think the spark plug is the only cause for the "low" numbers you have. It's probably the transmission.
To get an A/T car to run really good at the track, it has to be TUNED for the track. But that tune would suck at the street with the converter locking up weirdly, needlessly hard shifts. and the like. I bet your 4th gear sounds like it's slipping, right? Almost like it's two gears in one.
I don't think the spark plug is the only cause for the "low" numbers you have. It's probably the transmission.
It's normal for 4.10s./auto though..
10-07-2011, 10:07 PM
#29
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Overland Park, Kansas
Posts: 536
They are actually Autolite HT0. They look similar to the stock plugs
http://www.americanmuscle.com/autoli...06-BaseFitment
The Brisk ones look a lot easier to gap since they aren't the two piece design
http://www.americanmuscle.com/autoli...06-BaseFitment
The Brisk ones look a lot easier to gap since they aren't the two piece design
Last edited by gburke1; 10-07-2011 at 10:11 PM.
10-07-2011, 11:08 PM
#30
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Overland Park, Kansas
Posts: 536
Just pulled 4 passenger side plugs. The one I pulled earlier had a .025 gap, another had .032 the other 2 have what seems like .034
Trying to see what I can do to correct the gaps without messing them up (especially the .025 one...)
Trying to see what I can do to correct the gaps without messing them up (especially the .025 one...)
Last edited by gburke1; 10-07-2011 at 11:30 PM.