wildboi013

You should get it checked out by a parts store by taking if off the vehicle and taking it up there and getting voltage checked. I believe if you have a bad ground cable it can cause problems with the system back-charging or sending voltage back to the alternator burning up the diodes in them then voltage regulator and eventually the whole alternator.. If battery and alternator its got to be in the wiring(provided the components are correct parts.)

Nuke

I'm still not sure what brand(s) of alternators you've been putting in. If you're installing the FORD OE alternators, that's probably the issue as 157db implied. The S197 OE charging system is mediocre at best and known for multiple failures. But I'd also begin looking at your parasitic drain current since these alternators don't like to try to maintain a partially discharged battery on a daily basis.

2005Redfire6

I'd possibly look into what Don said about the aftermarket under drive pullies... And you did say the seller mentioned it having aftermarket pullies....

rob johnson

yep, stock alternators, its just that its been three of them now that is got me stuck! What do you mean by drain current?...ground wire? how do I check that aside from visual inspection?

on the aftermarket pulleys...should I replace with the stock ones? what diiference does it make? are they different size? Thnks!

rob johnson

ground coming off the alternator or battery? how do you check it? thanks!

BigDinTexas

If you are referring to Nuke's reply regarding the parasitic drain, he is talking about a drain that occurs with your keys out of the ignition and everything off. An example would be the radio that was left on and continued to pull current even after the key is removed and the doors opened/closed because of an electrical gremlin resulting from the water leak and frying the SJB. You would need an voltage meter to check this. I don't know the values you should be expecting nor the amount of acceptable drain.

As far as the stock pulleys are concerned, they are a different size from aftermarket. You need to confirm if you do indeed have underdrive pulleys on there or not first. You should be able to do this visually. Take a pic of them and post if you aren't sure. I'm sure someone with more knowledge than I will confirm if they are aftermarket or stock for you.

Don

rob johnson

Ahh, both of these makes sense. thanks D!

BigDinTexas

No problem... Btw, since you have been getting OEM alternators and this is the third, have they been getting replaced under warranty or have you been having to foot the cost everytime?

Also, where in GA? I'm a GA-Boy from Augusta myself.

Don

rob johnson

Yeah, napa. I am in Marietta, originally from FL

wayne613

You will need a meter capable of doing amperage, not a true ammeter, just a garden variety higher-end multimeter(hopefully digital) will do it. It should be less than 50 mA(milli-amps) drain total with everything off, interior lights, etc..

Charging system diagnostic procedure here(specifically section 414-00-15).

Since you're still using the stock radio, it is possible it's causing an unacceptable parasitic drain as Nuke states. Likely not the only reason, but if present, it's not helping anything.

I myself am going to pull the trigger on a high output PAperformance 6g alternator. This is one of my higher priority mods with the amount of electrical shiznat I have going. My OEM alternator strains at the best of times to keep up, and I go through a battery every year. This is with it working properly, and very little drain.

Actually, I just had my car in the shop to fix a muffler issue, sat for a few days, guy brings it out, and because he didn't leave it running for a while, it didn't have the juice to start again. Had to come out with a portable battery charger to give me a boost in front of the place.