TomKat

Strano has the hook on maganflow! too fire

rzundel

I want to thank everyone for the valuable information. After reading all the input, we have concluded that going for a less radical drop is our best bet if we are going springs only. We are looking at the Ford Racing 1" springs or the Roush "1F, 1.25"R springs. Curious to know if anyone has an opinion between the two?

kenthicken

Go talk to my service advisor over at Galpin Ford, Leonard Arsanos, if you haven't already. Good guy, knows his stuff.

Why not just buy the Roush Stage 2 or Stage 3 kit, and be done with it?

BiPo InPhoenix

Sorry for posting here, but I just logged in for the first time using my Facebook account. So, first, if anyone can tell me how to post my own message that would be great. I couldn't find it in Q&A search.

I'm curious if the power output is lower than 412HP for the automatic vs the manual and if this is also based on premium fuel.

I have the 2012 GT/CS in white just like above with auto. Also, I'm wondering if the gear ratio is the same on all GT/CS's and how that may effect the time?  I figure my Stang is good for about a 4.8 0-60mph.

Any answers would be appreciated.
Thanks and Happy New Year

Orion_240

Your rwhp will be slightly less, as the automatic transmissions rob a little more HP than the manuals do.

Your Mustang should have your rear gear's number written on the back of the "pumpkin" on the rear transaxle. Take a peak.

VistaBlueFrank68

I put the Steada Bump-steer and X-11 ball joints on, if you only drop an 1" then cam-bolts ($24) are all that's needed no $300 caster plates. Aligned it and balance the tires and it will practically drive itself. The Springs and Struts should be matched Eirbach with Eirbach and an Up-grade strut mount from AM is $109, that's the stiffer unit used in Shelby's. If you're going to the drag strip, a pair of LCA Relocation Brackets are good for wheel hop reduction. And git rid of that stock shifter for a short throw. You have an already powerful car, start with the suspension and controls first so you can drive what you got, wider tires on the rear and then look at power mods.

VistaBlueFrank68

Also Boss brake-line hoses $90 (2-3x more for stainless) really wakes up the brakes.
And yes did you catch the other posters term "crash bolts" The Cam-Bolts are adjustable bolts to replace your bolts that hold the top end of the front struts in place. These allow you to set the tire straight-up so the tread is flat on the ground. Camber plates cost more and have more adjustments but are not needed for only 1". you would see these mounted on top of the struts and you can see them under the hood. Cam-Bolts can't be seen and once changed if improperly torqued a loose bolt will let one or both wheels go where they wish, usually straight to the seen of the crash. And you get to watch the whole thing - in color on your wide-shield screen. Ask the Alignment place what they tighten them to, 166 lbs? maybe? I don't know but just asking can get them thinking and then doing the right thing. If you do all these things your ride will stay flat in hard curves and that means all four are gripping. Your suspension holds your tires down. A bouncing tire doesn't brake, accelerate, steer or hold a corner. Later