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Door speaker wiring?

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Old 05-07-2014, 07:04 PM
  #11  
jz78817
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hell, 25 watts will make your ears bleed. besides, it's not like any 5x7/6x8 speaker out there can come close to handling 150 watts.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:13 PM
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TheDivaDanielle
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my polk momo components are 100w rms, 200w peak?
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:17 PM
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and how did they determine those ratings?
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:20 PM
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TheDivaDanielle
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by developing and testing a product.

just like many not ****ty/cheap amplifiers have a build sheet with their tested output.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:21 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by TheDivaDanielle
my polk momo components are 100w rms, 200w peak?
Thats basically the same ratings is my polk pa330
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:29 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by TheDivaDanielle
by developing and testing a product.
and how did they test it?

look, physics makes such claims impossible. a 6x8 is likely to have a 1" diameter voice coil. That coil is wound with thin magnet wire, with a thin varnish coating for insulation. It simply can't thermally dissipate 100 watts for any meaningful length of time before the varnish melts, burns, and the coil shorts. power ratings of aftermarket speakers are hilariously overstated, the only reason they get away with it is because even with a 150 watt amp the high crest factor of music means nobody pushes the speakers that hard.

just like many not ****ty/cheap amplifiers have a build sheet with their tested output.
yeah, just like the "100 watts per channel/5 channel" home theater receiver I tested which blew up its power supply capacitors at about 20 watts per channel.

Advertised power ratings are worthless unless they also tell you how they determined those power ratings. That's the sole reason for the CEA 2006 standard; it's voluntary but it's intended to rein in the bull**** that some aftermarket manufacturers were barfing out.

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Old 05-07-2014, 07:38 PM
  #17  
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you should write Polk for me and ask them how they did it.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:46 PM
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I didn't mean to start a debate I don't care if its 300 Watts or 3000 watts. The set up in my car sounds fantastic and that's all I care about.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:55 PM
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Chromeshadow
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A 8 ohm speaker only needs 4.3 A RMS to make 144 watts (I squared x R).
You don't need really large wires in the speaker coil to handle 4.3 amps RMS.

Btw, the standard door speaker wires will be OK. To run wires into the door I think you need to remove the door. You could use the door sub wires if you wanted, there are 4 wires for each sub, as they are dual voice coil speakers. There is a wiring diagram posted here somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

The higher power amp you use, the more likely you are to have reduced quality at low volumes.
I've had really good success using speakers rated at twice the RMS levels as the Amp, so if I have a 50W RMS amp I use 100 W RMS speakers. I'm sure lots of people have differing opinions, this gives me the sound quality that I like.
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Chromeshadow
A 8 ohm speaker only needs 4.3 A RMS to make 144 watts (I squared x R).
You don't need really large wires in the speaker coil to handle 4.3 amps RMS.

Btw, the standard door speaker wires will be OK. To run wires into the door I think you need to remove the door. You could use the door sub wires if you wanted, there are 4 wires for each sub, as they are dual voice coil speakers. There is a wiring diagram posted here somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

The higher power amp you use, the more likely you are to have reduced quality at low volumes.
I've had really good success using speakers rated at twice the RMS levels as the Amp, so if I have a 50W RMS amp I use 100 W RMS speakers. I'm sure lots of people have differing opinions, this gives me the sound quality that I like.

Thanks, that would help a great deal. I have not been able to find a good wiring diagram that goes over the colors and wires and things like that to help me wire in an amp thanks again
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